The 3D Printer Thread
Discussion
Yazza54 said:
I hope the answer is yes as I had a rush of blood to the head and just ordered one.
LOL..yes, I am still happy with it. Brilliant bit of kit really. There is, as expected, some slicer fiddling to do with some prints, but generally it really is set and forget to print. Much less effort than the budget end. Really depends on what you want, ease of use or something to tweak. I did the tweak thing (it is fun and helps you learn) but now I want something that I can just use.There is still maintenance to do as well, so I'd recommend reading the Bambu Labs wiki, print one of their maintenance tools early doors to make life easier (you only need it when the printer is out of action), but I feel as though this company and their printers have really moved the game on.
I'm more than happy with my P1P. Not put a foot wrong.
The slicer is a bit confusing, even though its a fork of Prusa Slicer, its changed enough that it you wouldn't know of its link to Prusa. Lots less settings and some changed names.
The only failed prints I've had have been my mistakes.
ie, Not giving the PEI sheet a proper clean when swapping between PLA and PETG
The slicer is a bit confusing, even though its a fork of Prusa Slicer, its changed enough that it you wouldn't know of its link to Prusa. Lots less settings and some changed names.
The only failed prints I've had have been my mistakes.
ie, Not giving the PEI sheet a proper clean when swapping between PLA and PETG
Edited by Russ35 on Wednesday 1st February 13:08
I can't remember who is was in here that advised to lower the nozzle temp if you are having trouble with supports but I owe you a beer. Dropped my PLA stuff down from 200 to 195 and support removal is a breeze. Trickier with the 0.6mm nozzle but am told that is normal.
One thing I am still struggling with a bit is tolerances. For example I printed up a stand for an amazon echo, it has a fixing to put both parts together that is very similar to the gopro fixings, however they wont mesh, only a tiny bit out and I can file them down a bit to get them to fit but have had this problem before and I am not sure what it is. I did read that different slicers have different settings for this but using the standard Creality slicer I can't find anything in there for that. Thoughts anyone?
One thing I am still struggling with a bit is tolerances. For example I printed up a stand for an amazon echo, it has a fixing to put both parts together that is very similar to the gopro fixings, however they wont mesh, only a tiny bit out and I can file them down a bit to get them to fit but have had this problem before and I am not sure what it is. I did read that different slicers have different settings for this but using the standard Creality slicer I can't find anything in there for that. Thoughts anyone?
Try flow calibration - https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#...
or if you have suitable equipment (or can borrow) try XYZ calibration - https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#...
I've done the flow calibration using my Lidl special digital callipers (0.01mm accuracy) but I've not yet bought a dial indicator (I do have a Dial Test Indicator but that's a different tool) - probably going to get this one - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000860296893.html in 0.001mm spec.
or if you have suitable equipment (or can borrow) try XYZ calibration - https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#...
I've done the flow calibration using my Lidl special digital callipers (0.01mm accuracy) but I've not yet bought a dial indicator (I do have a Dial Test Indicator but that's a different tool) - probably going to get this one - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000860296893.html in 0.001mm spec.
S6PNJ said:
Try flow calibration - https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#...
or if you have suitable equipment (or can borrow) try XYZ calibration - https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#...
I've done the flow calibration using my Lidl special digital callipers (0.01mm accuracy) but I've not yet bought a dial indicator (I do have a Dial Test Indicator but that's a different tool) - probably going to get this one - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000860296893.html in 0.001mm spec.
Ah useful I’ll have a look at that thanks or if you have suitable equipment (or can borrow) try XYZ calibration - https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#...
I've done the flow calibration using my Lidl special digital callipers (0.01mm accuracy) but I've not yet bought a dial indicator (I do have a Dial Test Indicator but that's a different tool) - probably going to get this one - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000860296893.html in 0.001mm spec.
geeks said:
I can't remember who is was in here that advised to lower the nozzle temp if you are having trouble with supports but I owe you a beer. Dropped my PLA stuff down from 200 to 195 and support removal is a breeze. Trickier with the 0.6mm nozzle but am told that is normal.
One thing I am still struggling with a bit is tolerances. For example I printed up a stand for an amazon echo, it has a fixing to put both parts together that is very similar to the gopro fixings, however they wont mesh, only a tiny bit out and I can file them down a bit to get them to fit but have had this problem before and I am not sure what it is. I did read that different slicers have different settings for this but using the standard Creality slicer I can't find anything in there for that. Thoughts anyone?
The “Creality” slicer is just an old version of Cura.One thing I am still struggling with a bit is tolerances. For example I printed up a stand for an amazon echo, it has a fixing to put both parts together that is very similar to the gopro fixings, however they wont mesh, only a tiny bit out and I can file them down a bit to get them to fit but have had this problem before and I am not sure what it is. I did read that different slicers have different settings for this but using the standard Creality slicer I can't find anything in there for that. Thoughts anyone?
Ditch it and get the latest version of Cura for starters
S6PNJ said:
.....probably going to get this one - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000860296893.html in 0.001mm spec.
Whoops, told a little lie - this is the one I was thinking of - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1999144445.html has 1" of movement at 0.001mm (pick the correct option).Update for anyone interested... So the P1P turned up today and within 20 mins I was printing off a bed scraper to test the machine, one of the standard models on the micro sd.
It worked so well and so easily that i went full send straight to my own models and an hour later I had printed a velocity stack I modelled for my race car and one of the corresponding mounting plates.
The bellmouth was done on "sport mode" as a fast print. Quality suffers a tiny bit for speed but for checking a prototype it makes total sense. I also had the ironing function on but I didn't understand that it can only do flat surfaces so I've got a little ironed ring around the top of the radius, now turned that function off for the stacks but will use it for the nice flat mounting plate.
I've now got another running off in black formfutura ASA which will be a part I'll use, so long as it turns out ok. First signs appear all good. It's stuck to the bed well and that's all I was really worried about with the ASA. I did buy a little pop up enclosure for it but currently it's printing the ASA fine without it.
Pics of the test pieces in the white matte PLA supplied with the printer.
A few mates who've had 3d printers in the past said things to me like oh, you'll spend the whole day setting it up, or remember to level the bed..
This this is as out of the box user friendly as it gets.
It worked so well and so easily that i went full send straight to my own models and an hour later I had printed a velocity stack I modelled for my race car and one of the corresponding mounting plates.
The bellmouth was done on "sport mode" as a fast print. Quality suffers a tiny bit for speed but for checking a prototype it makes total sense. I also had the ironing function on but I didn't understand that it can only do flat surfaces so I've got a little ironed ring around the top of the radius, now turned that function off for the stacks but will use it for the nice flat mounting plate.
I've now got another running off in black formfutura ASA which will be a part I'll use, so long as it turns out ok. First signs appear all good. It's stuck to the bed well and that's all I was really worried about with the ASA. I did buy a little pop up enclosure for it but currently it's printing the ASA fine without it.
Pics of the test pieces in the white matte PLA supplied with the printer.
A few mates who've had 3d printers in the past said things to me like oh, you'll spend the whole day setting it up, or remember to level the bed..
This this is as out of the box user friendly as it gets.
I bought the X1-Carbon recently and its an impressive bit of kit. Printed quite a few bits in PLA which it has handled well, but I'm not getting the same quality from PETG yet.
I don't have any real interest in messing about to dial in settings or doing mods to the machine. I have an Ender 3 and while it will print nicely I seem to spend as much time tweaking as I do printing the parts I want. I wouldn't mind so much if it was just a hobby but I need to get work out of it and I just can't rely on it for that.
I don't have any real interest in messing about to dial in settings or doing mods to the machine. I have an Ender 3 and while it will print nicely I seem to spend as much time tweaking as I do printing the parts I want. I wouldn't mind so much if it was just a hobby but I need to get work out of it and I just can't rely on it for that.
egomeister said:
I bought the X1-Carbon recently and its an impressive bit of kit. Printed quite a few bits in PLA which it has handled well, but I'm not getting the same quality from PETG yet.
I don't have any real interest in messing about to dial in settings or doing mods to the machine. I have an Ender 3 and while it will print nicely I seem to spend as much time tweaking as I do printing the parts I want. I wouldn't mind so much if it was just a hobby but I need to get work out of it and I just can't rely on it for that.
That's why I was happy to spaff extra on the p1p compared to something like an ender 3. I enjoy the modelling and the design, coming up with ideas. But I am impatient and don't want to have to mod the printer as well, let alone build it. I don't have any real interest in messing about to dial in settings or doing mods to the machine. I have an Ender 3 and while it will print nicely I seem to spend as much time tweaking as I do printing the parts I want. I wouldn't mind so much if it was just a hobby but I need to get work out of it and I just can't rely on it for that.
Yazza54 said:
That's why I was happy to spaff extra on the p1p compared to something like an ender 3. I enjoy the modelling and the design, coming up with ideas. But I am impatient and don't want to have to mod the printer as well, let alone build it.
And that's why I went for X1C over the P1P - hardened nozzle, lidar, multi material system, enclosed chamber etc. I should be able to throw just about anything at it and it deal with it. They are really impressive bits of kit aren't they? Definitely a more costly option, but it feels like they move the game on significantly (although the price gap between the latest Enders and the P1P isn't much at all)
egomeister said:
Yazza54 said:
That's why I was happy to spaff extra on the p1p compared to something like an ender 3. I enjoy the modelling and the design, coming up with ideas. But I am impatient and don't want to have to mod the printer as well, let alone build it.
And that's why I went for X1C over the P1P - hardened nozzle, lidar, multi material system, enclosed chamber etc. I should be able to throw just about anything at it and it deal with it. They are really impressive bits of kit aren't they? Definitely a more costly option, but it feels like they move the game on significantly (although the price gap between the latest Enders and the P1P isn't much at all)
I've never used anything else so hard for me to comment... But I feel like I've jumped straight in and am doing stuff immediately that lots of people have struggled with. It's pissing through ASA now as we speak with no enclosure just fine.
I get the impression some of the hardcore old school 3d print fanatics think it's some sort of right of passage to get a st one and go through hell first but sod that. Read daft comments on YouTube and forums etc, like Bambu Lab are trying to take over.... Well, it's a business, if they take over then clearly their products are bloody good, what's the problem
Yazza54 said:
Yeah understandable if you're putting the machine to work, I couldn't justify the extra knowing the p1p could handle the stuff I'm looking to do just fine.
I've never used anything else so hard for me to comment... But I feel like I've jumped straight in and am doing stuff immediately that lots of people have struggled with. It's pissing through ASA now as we speak with no enclosure just fine.
I get the impression some of the hardcore old school 3d print fanatics think it's some sort of right of passage to get a st one and go through hell first but sod that. Read daft comments on YouTube and forums etc, like Bambu Lab are trying to take over.... Well, it's a business, if they take over then clearly their products are bloody good, what's the problem
Agreed. It's 50/50 work/fun for me. Or rather fun for work. If I can do enough paid stuff on it for it to earn it's keep then fantastic, if not i'm not worried.I've never used anything else so hard for me to comment... But I feel like I've jumped straight in and am doing stuff immediately that lots of people have struggled with. It's pissing through ASA now as we speak with no enclosure just fine.
I get the impression some of the hardcore old school 3d print fanatics think it's some sort of right of passage to get a st one and go through hell first but sod that. Read daft comments on YouTube and forums etc, like Bambu Lab are trying to take over.... Well, it's a business, if they take over then clearly their products are bloody good, what's the problem
As with you, I just want to design/make stuff and not do a science project every time I fire it up. It would be nice to get a better fundamental understanding of printing but I've got so many other things I'd choose to learn before that. For your use case I'd say you have definitely made the right choice.
Anyone want to buy a lightly used Ender 3?
Yazza54 said:
egomeister said:
I bought the X1-Carbon recently and its an impressive bit of kit. Printed quite a few bits in PLA which it has handled well, but I'm not getting the same quality from PETG yet.
I don't have any real interest in messing about to dial in settings or doing mods to the machine. I have an Ender 3 and while it will print nicely I seem to spend as much time tweaking as I do printing the parts I want. I wouldn't mind so much if it was just a hobby but I need to get work out of it and I just can't rely on it for that.
That's why I was happy to spaff extra on the p1p compared to something like an ender 3. I enjoy the modelling and the design, coming up with ideas. But I am impatient and don't want to have to mod the printer as well, let alone build it. I don't have any real interest in messing about to dial in settings or doing mods to the machine. I have an Ender 3 and while it will print nicely I seem to spend as much time tweaking as I do printing the parts I want. I wouldn't mind so much if it was just a hobby but I need to get work out of it and I just can't rely on it for that.
Yazza54 said:
Now put the printer in a pop up enclosure and it's definitely better again for the ASA keeping the ambient up. I found doing flat stuff the heat from the bed is enough but the velocity stacks were cooling too fast. Enjoying the learning curve.
One of the reasons I haven't played with materials like ASA/ABS is the styrene outgassing as I don't have anywhere ventilated I can put the printer at the moment. Are you doing anything to deal with this?egomeister said:
Yazza54 said:
Now put the printer in a pop up enclosure and it's definitely better again for the ASA keeping the ambient up. I found doing flat stuff the heat from the bed is enough but the velocity stacks were cooling too fast. Enjoying the learning curve.
One of the reasons I haven't played with materials like ASA/ABS is the styrene outgassing as I don't have anywhere ventilated I can put the printer at the moment. Are you doing anything to deal with this?Gassing Station | Computers, Gadgets & Stuff | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff