The 3D Printer Thread
Discussion
geeks said:
Yazza54 said:
LimaDelta said:
Is the P1P a decent shout for a printer?
Yes. 
)I certainly wouldn't leave my filament in it as pretty much all filament absorbs moisture, so if switching between stuff like ASA, TPU, PA-CF I don't see the benefit. (I only make functional stuff)
If you're making colourful Pokémon figurines then go for it
I know they say it's airtight but you'd still have to dry your filament out etc. I'd be tempted by it if it had a heating element inside it.
You can buy an AMS for a P1P anyway, and it's an upgrade for the X1C it doesn't come with it at its £1179 base price.
I run my P1P in a pop up enclosure when printing stuff that can warp.. was 40 quid off Amazon. So the only other benefit of the X1C that I can see is the Lidar but I'm not really convinced it's worth all those extra pennies.
IMO the P1P is an awesome printer for the money, the X1C, I'm not sure, it's quite a lot more money for questionable gains.
Edited by Yazza54 on Thursday 6th April 09:50
Camera and LED light fitted
The camera picture quality isn't amazing but what it does give you via the app is the ability to check on your phone how the print is going, and if it's failed and splurging filament everywhere, remotely stop the print. Also it was free so can't complain.
The light is pretty powerful for its size, you have to print the housing and lens, so I used the white PLA for the lens and some black ASA for the housing.
All in all two nice little upgrades I wasn't expecting.
The camera picture quality isn't amazing but what it does give you via the app is the ability to check on your phone how the print is going, and if it's failed and splurging filament everywhere, remotely stop the print. Also it was free so can't complain.
The light is pretty powerful for its size, you have to print the housing and lens, so I used the white PLA for the lens and some black ASA for the housing.
All in all two nice little upgrades I wasn't expecting.
LimaDelta said:
Ok, so I've ordered a P1P, can I reasonably expect this to work OOB, or will I need any additional kit or software? Do I need a separate slicer or does it ship with software for that?
Download bambu studio off t'internetWhat filaments do you want to print? That will determine if you need extra stuff.
Yazza54 said:
LimaDelta said:
Ok, so I've ordered a P1P, can I reasonably expect this to work OOB, or will I need any additional kit or software? Do I need a separate slicer or does it ship with software for that?
Download bambu studio off t'internetWhat filaments do you want to print? That will determine if you need extra stuff.
LimaDelta said:
Yazza54 said:
LimaDelta said:
Ok, so I've ordered a P1P, can I reasonably expect this to work OOB, or will I need any additional kit or software? Do I need a separate slicer or does it ship with software for that?
Download bambu studio off t'internetWhat filaments do you want to print? That will determine if you need extra stuff.
Yazza54 said:
LimaDelta said:
Yazza54 said:
LimaDelta said:
Ok, so I've ordered a P1P, can I reasonably expect this to work OOB, or will I need any additional kit or software? Do I need a separate slicer or does it ship with software for that?
Download bambu studio off t'internetWhat filaments do you want to print? That will determine if you need extra stuff.
Anyone got a bamboo carbon X1 with AMS who could answer two quick questions.
1) how fire and forget is the printing, how good on bridges?
2) if you are printing a plate with a few specs of a second colour. eg dots on a mainly single colour landscape. How much of the material does it waste for each switchover of colour.
1) how fire and forget is the printing, how good on bridges?
2) if you are printing a plate with a few specs of a second colour. eg dots on a mainly single colour landscape. How much of the material does it waste for each switchover of colour.
julian64 said:
Anyone got a bamboo carbon X1 with AMS who could answer two quick questions.
1) how fire and forget is the printing, how good on bridges?
2) if you are printing a plate with a few specs of a second colour. eg dots on a mainly single colour landscape. How much of the material does it waste for each switchover of colour.
Bridges are on the whole material and cooling dependant, PLA and a good cooling setup will give better bridges that PETG and good cooling (or bad) 1) how fire and forget is the printing, how good on bridges?
2) if you are printing a plate with a few specs of a second colour. eg dots on a mainly single colour landscape. How much of the material does it waste for each switchover of colour.
Reviews on the AMS for the X1C suggest that if you are doing lots of colour changes it can waste time and material (unload, load, change, purge) so if all you are doing is a few dots on the top of a print then you'll be fine but if you are doing regular changes then the losses can be a bit high. Angus on makers muse reviews the X1C and the P1P together and details this if you want to know more
Multicolour wastes a lot of filament, with the AMS its more than most other systems.
It will print a layer to the wipe/purge tower for every object layer printed, so a tall print will produce a a tall tower as well. As well as poop for each colour change.
There is a way to reduce the wipe/purge tower size, but it is not availalbe in Bambu or Orca Slicer. In Prusa slicer there is an option 'No sparse layers (EXPERIMENTAL)'. If this option is enabled it will only print to the wipe tower when there is a colour change. So if there is a 10 layer section without a colour change, nothing will be printed on the wipe tower. But it means keeping your wipe tower far away from your object print as the z axis will have to go down to print the wipe tower layer when there is another colour change.
Remember if printing multicolour objects print as many of the object as possible at the same time. If your printing 5 spiderman busts at the same time there is still only the same number of colour changes as if printing 1. And its the colour changes that make multicolour prints take so long to print and the waste material will be the same for 1 or 5 busts printed.
This guy recently did a 16 colour print with 4 x AMS. In his latest video he mentions that heis just completed a 12 colour print that took over 6days!
It will print a layer to the wipe/purge tower for every object layer printed, so a tall print will produce a a tall tower as well. As well as poop for each colour change.
There is a way to reduce the wipe/purge tower size, but it is not availalbe in Bambu or Orca Slicer. In Prusa slicer there is an option 'No sparse layers (EXPERIMENTAL)'. If this option is enabled it will only print to the wipe tower when there is a colour change. So if there is a 10 layer section without a colour change, nothing will be printed on the wipe tower. But it means keeping your wipe tower far away from your object print as the z axis will have to go down to print the wipe tower layer when there is another colour change.
Remember if printing multicolour objects print as many of the object as possible at the same time. If your printing 5 spiderman busts at the same time there is still only the same number of colour changes as if printing 1. And its the colour changes that make multicolour prints take so long to print and the waste material will be the same for 1 or 5 busts printed.
This guy recently did a 16 colour print with 4 x AMS. In his latest video he mentions that heis just completed a 12 colour print that took over 6days!
Edited by Russ35 on Tuesday 18th April 13:15
Having some headaches today printing PA-CF
I did stick my filament in my dryer a few weeks ago then popped it in a sealed bag with dessicant but it seems to still have moisture in it. Half the print came out really nice then the further I got through the reel the more it went to s
t with porous bits through the part where the moisture has evaporated from the filament.
My dryer only goes to 55 degrees and I have no oven at the moment as my kitchens being renovated... May have to buy a better dryer. For now I'm gonna stick the filament back in the dryer at 55 degrees for a few hours then try again, and I'll run it out of the dryer this time too.
Tis annoying when stuff like this happens, a couple of hours of making bits turns into a day of fking about but it's nothing some better pre planning wouldn't have resolved.
I did stick my filament in my dryer a few weeks ago then popped it in a sealed bag with dessicant but it seems to still have moisture in it. Half the print came out really nice then the further I got through the reel the more it went to s
t with porous bits through the part where the moisture has evaporated from the filament. My dryer only goes to 55 degrees and I have no oven at the moment as my kitchens being renovated... May have to buy a better dryer. For now I'm gonna stick the filament back in the dryer at 55 degrees for a few hours then try again, and I'll run it out of the dryer this time too.
Tis annoying when stuff like this happens, a couple of hours of making bits turns into a day of f
king about but it's nothing some better pre planning wouldn't have resolved. You don't need to be printing multicolour objects to make use of the. AMS.
I'm currently printing a few rugged storage boxes ( like this) to store delicate things (go pro, thermal camera, batteries etc). I like to have them in 2 colours black bottom and orange top in PETG. These are probably the most common colours I print with.
At the minute I'm continually swapping between the 2 colours. design a custom box size, ensure that black or orange is loaded, print the top or bottom, swap to the other colour and print the corresponding part.
If I had an AMS I could always have black and orange loaded in the AMS, plus white, and a 4th colour. Then in bambu studio just select which colour I want to print the current part with.
You can also in bambu studio tell it that if slot 1 runs out of filament to continue with slot x
I will be getting an AMS at some point.
My next 3d Printer : https://cocoapress.com/
I'm currently printing a few rugged storage boxes ( like this) to store delicate things (go pro, thermal camera, batteries etc). I like to have them in 2 colours black bottom and orange top in PETG. These are probably the most common colours I print with.
At the minute I'm continually swapping between the 2 colours. design a custom box size, ensure that black or orange is loaded, print the top or bottom, swap to the other colour and print the corresponding part.
If I had an AMS I could always have black and orange loaded in the AMS, plus white, and a 4th colour. Then in bambu studio just select which colour I want to print the current part with.
You can also in bambu studio tell it that if slot 1 runs out of filament to continue with slot x
I will be getting an AMS at some point.
My next 3d Printer : https://cocoapress.com/
Edited by Russ35 on Tuesday 18th April 16:35
Bullett said:
Anyone printed any ASA? Found a practical part on thingyverse and the designer is recommending ASA.
It’s this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5804081 so will be exposed to vibration, heat, rain, sun and probably kerbs grass and swearing.
I’ll try a test print in pla+
I printed this in PLA as I didn't have time to fanny around with ASA. Came out pretty well but the hex holes were slightly too small so I had to cut them manually. I may just redesign one from scratch rather than printing slightly larger which would throw the centres out, it's geometric shapes so not too difficult. And the experiment proved the theory.It’s this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5804081 so will be exposed to vibration, heat, rain, sun and probably kerbs grass and swearing.
I’ll try a test print in pla+
It survived pretty well two full days on track until the final session where I think I lost a retaining nut (my fault, it wasn't fully on the nylock) which caused it to wobble around and rub on the chain, sprocket protector or engine and warp slightly. I'll refit with longer button heads.
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