The 3D Printer Thread
Discussion
I'd assume that relates to whether the BL touch attaches direct to the main board or an intermediate interface?
A bit of googling also turned up this site doing non-creality firmware builds: https://3dprintscape.com/marlin-firmware-builds/
A bit of googling also turned up this site doing non-creality firmware builds: https://3dprintscape.com/marlin-firmware-builds/
egomeister said:
Scabutz said:
egomeister said:
Outside ebay, does anyone have any good recommendations for second hand 3d printing stuff?
Facebook Marketplace? Have to be wary of the scammers, but they are easy to spot. Also general search on FB marketplace.
It's the kind of thing that people want collected.
I'd be looking to buy a lightly used printer, or a printer the first owner couldn't make much sense of.
egomeister said:
I'd assume that relates to whether the BL touch attaches direct to the main board or an intermediate interface?
A bit of googling also turned up this site doing non-creality firmware builds: https://3dprintscape.com/marlin-firmware-builds/
Thank you egomeister & S6PNJ - really appreciate the support.A bit of googling also turned up this site doing non-creality firmware builds: https://3dprintscape.com/marlin-firmware-builds/
I ended up using the firmware on the 3dprintscape page as they had one for BLTouch with Z-Homing which was exactly what I needed given my archaic config. Looks like the market has evolved towards the BLTouch v2 & then the CR10 so this was definitely a lifesaver.
One thing it doesn't allow is full compatibility with my Octopi, but I may be able to have a go at compiling my own firmware now I have the config file.
In short: loving the silent board. It makes a BIG difference. Now just wish there was a way to get silent fans
.Adam. said:
I'm sure this has been asked before, but I'm looking at getting my first 3D printer. I've narrowed it down to the Ender 3 V3 SE, or the Sovol SV07. Both are a similar price, and I've seen reviews that favour both. Has anyone had any experiance with either or a recommendation?
I have an earlier Ender and its been great. Few foibles here and there but the 3 V3 SE has auto levelling built in which is an improvement. Not heard of the Sovol one, it looks good and prints twice as fast as the ender, but its not far off twice the priceAnyone done the "3 point bed levelling mod"?
Old Reddit thread - https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/9t4op...
I'd want something more permanent than a printed part though, but is it worth doing?
Not seen a great deal of info or people doing it, unless I've missed something.
Old Reddit thread - https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/9t4op...
I'd want something more permanent than a printed part though, but is it worth doing?
Not seen a great deal of info or people doing it, unless I've missed something.
Scabutz said:
.Adam. said:
I'm sure this has been asked before, but I'm looking at getting my first 3D printer. I've narrowed it down to the Ender 3 V3 SE, or the Sovol SV07. Both are a similar price, and I've seen reviews that favour both. Has anyone had any experiance with either or a recommendation?
I have an earlier Ender and its been great. Few foibles here and there but the 3 V3 SE has auto levelling built in which is an improvement. Not heard of the Sovol one, it looks good and prints twice as fast as the ender, but its not far off twice the priceOr if you do got for the SE then either Klipper it with a Pi or the Creality Sonic Pad. Personally I would go for the KE as it has Klipper out of the box.
Dave. said:
Anyone done the "3 point bed levelling mod"?
Old Reddit thread - https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/9t4op...
I'd want something more permanent than a printed part though, but is it worth doing?
Not seen a great deal of info or people doing it, unless I've missed something.
It's probably one of those things that in principle is great but the juice isn't worth the squeeze. If it was well you know the restOld Reddit thread - https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/9t4op...
I'd want something more permanent than a printed part though, but is it worth doing?
Not seen a great deal of info or people doing it, unless I've missed something.
Dave. said:
Anyone done the "3 point bed levelling mod"?
Old Reddit thread - https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/9t4op...
I'd want something more permanent than a printed part though, but is it worth doing?
Not seen a great deal of info or people doing it, unless I've missed something.
Bed levelling is a pain the backside. While 3 point is theoretically nicer than the standard 4, I think it just makes you even more reliant on the bed itself being flat.Old Reddit thread - https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/9t4op...
I'd want something more permanent than a printed part though, but is it worth doing?
Not seen a great deal of info or people doing it, unless I've missed something.
Bed probe and taking it out in software seems the best solution to me!
egomeister said:
Dave. said:
Anyone done the "3 point bed levelling mod"?
Old Reddit thread - https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/9t4op...
I'd want something more permanent than a printed part though, but is it worth doing?
Not seen a great deal of info or people doing it, unless I've missed something.
Bed levelling is a pain the backside. While 3 point is theoretically nicer than the standard 4, I think it just makes you even more reliant on the bed itself being flat.Old Reddit thread - https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/9t4op...
I'd want something more permanent than a printed part though, but is it worth doing?
Not seen a great deal of info or people doing it, unless I've missed something.
Bed probe and taking it out in software seems the best solution to me!
My Ender S1 is never consistent, I can do back to back meshes and they'd be very different (it's in my start code to run before every print).
Even manually leveling the 4 corners beforehand doesn't help.
The probe variance is only 0.00750 so it's not the probe.
It's only a 0.2mm difference between the highest and lowest, but they move around and adjacent points can be high/low this time, and be low/high the next.
I guess it's just the bed twisting, but I do preheat to printing temp before starting etc.
Not sure if I need to try a glass bed, and maybe try with the pei on top of the glass bed, or try the 3 point mod (or a combination of the 3!)
Even manually leveling the 4 corners beforehand doesn't help.
The probe variance is only 0.00750 so it's not the probe.
It's only a 0.2mm difference between the highest and lowest, but they move around and adjacent points can be high/low this time, and be low/high the next.
I guess it's just the bed twisting, but I do preheat to printing temp before starting etc.
Not sure if I need to try a glass bed, and maybe try with the pei on top of the glass bed, or try the 3 point mod (or a combination of the 3!)
I've got a Ender 3 v2 I bought a couple of years ago.
There is alot of whinging about Enders, particularly the early ones. I've had someone tell me that my printer never produces a successful print (news to me...) and its totally useless alot of it is very tribal as is usual with hobbies. Some of it is because people don't put them together properly or throw a whole bunch of upgrades at it and then just expect it to work perfectly with no adjustment/tinkering - which is unlikely.
Anyway, the v2 has a glass bed, I do the 4 point level manually and can leave it like that for a dozen prints usually. I did have adhesion problems, causing prints to come unstuck and fail. I tried cleaning the bed etc, no luck, eventually I flipped it to the smooth side and used a gluestick - works a treat but don't use too much because it can be a swine to get stuff off. I did read that using PETG on the textured side can be risky as the print will rip the texture off the glass.
The v2 is a bit bare bones but todays' standards but it works fine, for £170 I paid its pretty good. Newer models will be better with more features/better mainboards. Biggest thing I'd be after is print speed - especially if you want to do larger models.
There is alot of whinging about Enders, particularly the early ones. I've had someone tell me that my printer never produces a successful print (news to me...) and its totally useless alot of it is very tribal as is usual with hobbies. Some of it is because people don't put them together properly or throw a whole bunch of upgrades at it and then just expect it to work perfectly with no adjustment/tinkering - which is unlikely.
Anyway, the v2 has a glass bed, I do the 4 point level manually and can leave it like that for a dozen prints usually. I did have adhesion problems, causing prints to come unstuck and fail. I tried cleaning the bed etc, no luck, eventually I flipped it to the smooth side and used a gluestick - works a treat but don't use too much because it can be a swine to get stuff off. I did read that using PETG on the textured side can be risky as the print will rip the texture off the glass.
The v2 is a bit bare bones but todays' standards but it works fine, for £170 I paid its pretty good. Newer models will be better with more features/better mainboards. Biggest thing I'd be after is print speed - especially if you want to do larger models.
Crafty_ said:
I've got a Ender 3 v2 I bought a couple of years ago.
There is alot of whinging about Enders, particularly the early ones. I've had someone tell me that my printer never produces a successful print (news to me...) and its totally useless alot of it is very tribal as is usual with hobbies. Some of it is because people don't put them together properly or throw a whole bunch of upgrades at it and then just expect it to work perfectly with no adjustment/tinkering - which is unlikely.
Anyway, the v2 has a glass bed, I do the 4 point level manually and can leave it like that for a dozen prints usually. I did have adhesion problems, causing prints to come unstuck and fail. I tried cleaning the bed etc, no luck, eventually I flipped it to the smooth side and used a gluestick - works a treat but don't use too much because it can be a swine to get stuff off. I did read that using PETG on the textured side can be risky as the print will rip the texture off the glass.
The v2 is a bit bare bones but todays' standards but it works fine, for £170 I paid its pretty good. Newer models will be better with more features/better mainboards. Biggest thing I'd be after is print speed - especially if you want to do larger models.
Yeah pretty much sums up my experience with the Ender 3 V2. Have printed PETG and yes its sticks like a bThere is alot of whinging about Enders, particularly the early ones. I've had someone tell me that my printer never produces a successful print (news to me...) and its totally useless alot of it is very tribal as is usual with hobbies. Some of it is because people don't put them together properly or throw a whole bunch of upgrades at it and then just expect it to work perfectly with no adjustment/tinkering - which is unlikely.
Anyway, the v2 has a glass bed, I do the 4 point level manually and can leave it like that for a dozen prints usually. I did have adhesion problems, causing prints to come unstuck and fail. I tried cleaning the bed etc, no luck, eventually I flipped it to the smooth side and used a gluestick - works a treat but don't use too much because it can be a swine to get stuff off. I did read that using PETG on the textured side can be risky as the print will rip the texture off the glass.
The v2 is a bit bare bones but todays' standards but it works fine, for £170 I paid its pretty good. Newer models will be better with more features/better mainboards. Biggest thing I'd be after is print speed - especially if you want to do larger models.
h but not damaged anything. Use a gluestick. Was using that Magiglo but thats expensive, now use a prit stick.I would want more speed on my next machine. Especially as my CAD skills arent top notch and quite often after printing something it needs a lot of tweaks. Gets quite frustrating waiting 4 hours for a print to realise youve messed up
Scabutz said:
Crafty_ said:
I've got a Ender 3 v2 I bought a couple of years ago.
There is alot of whinging about Enders, particularly the early ones. I've had someone tell me that my printer never produces a successful print (news to me...) and its totally useless alot of it is very tribal as is usual with hobbies. Some of it is because people don't put them together properly or throw a whole bunch of upgrades at it and then just expect it to work perfectly with no adjustment/tinkering - which is unlikely.
Anyway, the v2 has a glass bed, I do the 4 point level manually and can leave it like that for a dozen prints usually. I did have adhesion problems, causing prints to come unstuck and fail. I tried cleaning the bed etc, no luck, eventually I flipped it to the smooth side and used a gluestick - works a treat but don't use too much because it can be a swine to get stuff off. I did read that using PETG on the textured side can be risky as the print will rip the texture off the glass.
The v2 is a bit bare bones but todays' standards but it works fine, for £170 I paid its pretty good. Newer models will be better with more features/better mainboards. Biggest thing I'd be after is print speed - especially if you want to do larger models.
Yeah pretty much sums up my experience with the Ender 3 V2. Have printed PETG and yes its sticks like a bThere is alot of whinging about Enders, particularly the early ones. I've had someone tell me that my printer never produces a successful print (news to me...) and its totally useless alot of it is very tribal as is usual with hobbies. Some of it is because people don't put them together properly or throw a whole bunch of upgrades at it and then just expect it to work perfectly with no adjustment/tinkering - which is unlikely.
Anyway, the v2 has a glass bed, I do the 4 point level manually and can leave it like that for a dozen prints usually. I did have adhesion problems, causing prints to come unstuck and fail. I tried cleaning the bed etc, no luck, eventually I flipped it to the smooth side and used a gluestick - works a treat but don't use too much because it can be a swine to get stuff off. I did read that using PETG on the textured side can be risky as the print will rip the texture off the glass.
The v2 is a bit bare bones but todays' standards but it works fine, for £170 I paid its pretty good. Newer models will be better with more features/better mainboards. Biggest thing I'd be after is print speed - especially if you want to do larger models.
h but not damaged anything. Use a gluestick. Was using that Magiglo but thats expensive, now use a prit stick.I would want more speed on my next machine. Especially as my CAD skills arent top notch and quite often after printing something it needs a lot of tweaks. Gets quite frustrating waiting 4 hours for a print to realise youve messed up
I would also encourage the use of Klipper at any point as well, you can then use screws_tilt_calculate to see how to level your bed, what it does is move the BL/CR touch to the four bed level screw points and then tells you how much and in which direction to adjust your bed screws to get it level. As per:
Once you have that sorted you can then get an accelerometer (I have one that hooks into a Pi you can borrow if you want) and do the whole measure resonance frequencies for Input Shaping and then you can up your printing speed and acceleration to get things printed much faster (I can do a speed benchy in less than 20 minutes or a benchy that looks like it should in 25 minutes). Also that it's pressure advance tuning and you are good to go.
As for printing surfaces, I swear by Garolite, everything I print sticks perfectly* and just pops straight off the build plate even PETG. Take a look at https://youtu.be/g0PK4oXbJT8?si=yP0USwnfdJZSwMxc for more info there.
- matt PLA seems to not want to stick to it, not sure why but when I asked Angus he confirmed he had the same issue and others had too and they solution was to use a bit of glue, he does a mix of prit and IPA to make a slurry which is basically what Magigoo is, I just use Magigoo as I got a bottle for free and only use it for Matt PLA prints.
Edited by geeks on Wednesday 24th January 11:45
Dave. said:
My Ender S1 is never consistent, I can do back to back meshes and they'd be very different (it's in my start code to run before every print).
Even manually leveling the 4 corners beforehand doesn't help.
The probe variance is only 0.00750 so it's not the probe.
It's only a 0.2mm difference between the highest and lowest, but they move around and adjacent points can be high/low this time, and be low/high the next.
I guess it's just the bed twisting, but I do preheat to printing temp before starting etc.
Not sure if I need to try a glass bed, and maybe try with the pei on top of the glass bed, or try the 3 point mod (or a combination of the 3!)
The bed setup isn't the nicest thing to begin with, having 4 countersinks constraining it and then the effects of heat on that.Even manually leveling the 4 corners beforehand doesn't help.
The probe variance is only 0.00750 so it's not the probe.
It's only a 0.2mm difference between the highest and lowest, but they move around and adjacent points can be high/low this time, and be low/high the next.
I guess it's just the bed twisting, but I do preheat to printing temp before starting etc.
Not sure if I need to try a glass bed, and maybe try with the pei on top of the glass bed, or try the 3 point mod (or a combination of the 3!)
I never got too deep into the glass bed on mine, but I did find it seemed easier to get a good overall flatness/level as I guess the glass is reasonably rigid in itself and effectively floated on top of whatever was happening beneath it
egomeister said:
The bed setup isn't the nicest thing to begin with, having 4 countersinks constraining it and then the effects of heat on that.
I never got too deep into the glass bed on mine, but I did find it seemed easier to get a good overall flatness/level as I guess the glass is reasonably rigid in itself and effectively floated on top of whatever was happening beneath it
The bed setup is pretty standard though, infact most of the new stuff comes with a fixed bed relying purely on ABL to get things to print well, it has caused a few issues on some stuff though and a few people end up modifying it so that it can be adjusted.I never got too deep into the glass bed on mine, but I did find it seemed easier to get a good overall flatness/level as I guess the glass is reasonably rigid in itself and effectively floated on top of whatever was happening beneath it
Oh and word to the wise, glass and PETG don't mix without a good spread of glue
geeks said:
egomeister said:
The bed setup isn't the nicest thing to begin with, having 4 countersinks constraining it and then the effects of heat on that.
I never got too deep into the glass bed on mine, but I did find it seemed easier to get a good overall flatness/level as I guess the glass is reasonably rigid in itself and effectively floated on top of whatever was happening beneath it
The bed setup is pretty standard though, infact most of the new stuff comes with a fixed bed relying purely on ABL to get things to print well, it has caused a few issues on some stuff though and a few people end up modifying it so that it can be adjusted.I never got too deep into the glass bed on mine, but I did find it seemed easier to get a good overall flatness/level as I guess the glass is reasonably rigid in itself and effectively floated on top of whatever was happening beneath it
Oh and word to the wise, glass and PETG don't mix without a good spread of glue
egomeister said:
geeks said:
egomeister said:
The bed setup isn't the nicest thing to begin with, having 4 countersinks constraining it and then the effects of heat on that.
I never got too deep into the glass bed on mine, but I did find it seemed easier to get a good overall flatness/level as I guess the glass is reasonably rigid in itself and effectively floated on top of whatever was happening beneath it
The bed setup is pretty standard though, infact most of the new stuff comes with a fixed bed relying purely on ABL to get things to print well, it has caused a few issues on some stuff though and a few people end up modifying it so that it can be adjusted.I never got too deep into the glass bed on mine, but I did find it seemed easier to get a good overall flatness/level as I guess the glass is reasonably rigid in itself and effectively floated on top of whatever was happening beneath it
Oh and word to the wise, glass and PETG don't mix without a good spread of glue
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