The 3D Printer Thread

Author
Discussion

geeks

9,193 posts

139 months

Thursday 7th March
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Russ35 said:
I use mainly Esun PLA+, seems to go brittle very quickly.

I had an issue recently where it had snapped in the AMS. I managed to get the pieces out, but still had issues.Checked every thing on slot 4, nothing stuck in the feeder or the PTFE tube. Then swapped the feeder with one of the others still did the same. Then discovered that none of the slots would actually feed out of the AMS.

On further investigation I discovered that as well as the 4 individual feeders there is another one at the back of the AMS where the 4 PTFE tubes meet. So had to dismantle that and found a small piece of filament stuck in the gears.
Fortunately the AMS seems pretty simple to work one which is a plus. In regards to the filament I've only had it go brittle with the black filament all the other colours I have had have been fine when they have been sat out for a while when I was using them on my Ender. Like I say the desiccant in my AMS box had sucked up alot of moisture and given how infrequently I open it that can only really have leached out of the filament, I am not convinced the cardboard spools are helping.

M1K3

2,821 posts

184 months

Thursday 7th March
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I’ve not had issues of filament stuck in the AMS but have had the issue in the extruder. Mainly on new out of the packet sunlu, never on the bambu filament. As my printer lives in a dehumidified room, I now open all of my new spools and just leave them in the room stacked next to the printer. I now give new spools two days before use and have had zero issues since.

Today’s issue:


Thought I had finished and then realised I forgot to print some hands…

geeks

9,193 posts

139 months

Thursday 7th March
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Don't suppose I could borrow someone's CAD skills could I? I am looking for something similar to this: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1585041-REG...
They dont make it anymore but seems like it would be pretty printable with the right STL however my own skills (or lack there of) are coming up short. It doesnt need to hold a phone as well like this one just simply hold an Apple Watch and preferably have a cold shoe mount or be mountable in someway to a smallrig phone cage. Happy to exchange beer tokens for the endeavour smile

Yazza54

18,518 posts

181 months

Thursday 7th March
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I have no real interest in the AMS but I did wonder if it's heated?

I tend to run my filament from from a dryer while printing and let the filament sit in the dryer for a bit before starting printing sometimes. I also store in vacuum bags, those storage saver ones you can buy for clothes that come with a hand pump.

geeks

9,193 posts

139 months

Thursday 7th March
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Yazza54 said:
I have no real interest in the AMS but I did wonder if it's heated?

I tend to run my filament from from a dryer while printing and let the filament sit in the dryer for a bit before starting printing sometimes. I also store in vacuum bags, those storage saver ones you can buy for clothes that come with a hand pump.
It isn't but it does seal quite well so acts as a "dry box" (not to be confused with a dryer). Also have the vac bags that I store what I am not using in as well. To be fair things like PLA are MUCH less sensitive to moisture than say PETG or PA. PLA+ seems a little more prone to moisture absorption than standard PLA. Also worth bearing in mind PLA is generally more brittle than the others too. Most of what I print is PLA+ and some PETG when I need the toughness (not strength) or the additional heat resistance (I have some speaker adapters in the car for example that I did in PETG).

M1K3

2,821 posts

184 months

Tuesday 12th March
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I finally printed something useful!


geeks

9,193 posts

139 months

Tuesday 12th March
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M1K3 said:
I finally printed something useful!

Fancy!

I was actually looking at this the other day but I am likely to run off the gridfinity version when I can be bothered.

geeks

9,193 posts

139 months

Friday 22nd March
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Guess who forgot to remove his black esun PLA+ from the first stage feeder and now has a snapped bit in his AMS again? Not me, no sir! hehe

M1K3

2,821 posts

184 months

Sunday 24th March
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I've been busy...

IKEA shelves


A thing for stacking AMSesses


And I have slowly been printing the required parts for a Defender 110 pickup



First time trying the fuzzy option, don't think it looks too bad for the seats

Scabutz

7,623 posts

80 months

Saturday 6th April
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I've had an Endar 3 V2 for a while now. Its been OK, its a little inconsistent and can be frustrating at times. I'm pondering another project that needs a lot of printing so thinking about an additional machine with a bit more budget. My main requirement would be speed. It drives me mad waiting for pieces to finish to discover they haven't printed quite right or my designs have mistakes (common).

Say for around the 400-500 mark whats the best option?

Yazza54

18,518 posts

181 months

Saturday 6th April
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Scabutz said:
I've had an Endar 3 V2 for a while now. Its been OK, its a little inconsistent and can be frustrating at times. I'm pondering another project that needs a lot of printing so thinking about an additional machine with a bit more budget. My main requirement would be speed. It drives me mad waiting for pieces to finish to discover they haven't printed quite right or my designs have mistakes (common).

Say for around the 400-500 mark whats the best option?
P1P surely? Think they can be bought for 550 now

geeks

9,193 posts

139 months

Sunday 7th April
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Scabutz said:
I've had an Endar 3 V2 for a while now. Its been OK, its a little inconsistent and can be frustrating at times. I'm pondering another project that needs a lot of printing so thinking about an additional machine with a bit more budget. My main requirement would be speed. It drives me mad waiting for pieces to finish to discover they haven't printed quite right or my designs have mistakes (common).

Say for around the 400-500 mark whats the best option?
What will you need to print? Just PLA? ABS? Etc. personally wouldn’t bother with a P1P while it’s a great print it’s limited by being open framed. While you can put it in an enclosure or print and fit an enclosed kit (someone on here did so can’t remember who though) by the time you have done that you might as well have bought a P1S.

However it’s worth noting there is a trade off printing fast and that’s strength. Fine if you are printing models or trinkets. But if you want a shelf bracket or something to take a bit of abuse you are better off slowing the print down (see CNC kitchens videos on this) there is of course a happy medium and lower layer heights can help to some extent too. Love my P1S but it’s not magic you still need to do your bit but you don’t have to worry about the printing but which is nice

Scabutz

7,623 posts

80 months

Sunday 7th April
quotequote all
geeks said:
What will you need to print? Just PLA? ABS? Etc. personally wouldn’t bother with a P1P while it’s a great print it’s limited by being open framed. While you can put it in an enclosure or print and fit an enclosed kit (someone on here did so can’t remember who though) by the time you have done that you might as well have bought a P1S.

However it’s worth noting there is a trade off printing fast and that’s strength. Fine if you are printing models or trinkets. But if you want a shelf bracket or something to take a bit of abuse you are better off slowing the print down (see CNC kitchens videos on this) there is of course a happy medium and lower layer heights can help to some extent too. Love my P1S but it’s not magic you still need to do your bit but you don’t have to worry about the printing but which is nice
Mostly just PLA. Strength won't be am issue with a lot of it. The similar project I did recently used PETG for the bitd needing strength.

Although looking at the plans I wonder if I might be better off with a CNC machine than another 3D printer.

It's a flight sim. I've almost finished my first and its far from perfect, I rushed some bits and it's quite simple. But it is functional do I can play with that but want to build something a bit more advanced at the same time. Currently thinking about an F18

GasEngineer

949 posts

62 months

Sunday 21st April
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Any advice on beginners books/guides YouTube tutorials etc please?

I have never used or even looked at a 3d printer before.

I've designed a hook made out of a piece of packing foam to hold the self closing shower screen in my bathroom out of the way for cleaning, by hooking it the over the basin. I would like to make a proper 3d printed version of this.

I have an Ender3 V2 3d printer but have no idea where to start to tell it to print a copy of the 'prototype' I've made out of the foam.

eg - do I take a picture(s) of the hook and feed it into an app somehow and specify some dimensions? What type of filament should I use? etc etc.

So any pointers on good beginners books/guides or YouTube tutorials etc would be most welcome.

Caddyshack

10,823 posts

206 months

Sunday 21st April
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GasEngineer said:
Any advice on beginners books/guides YouTube tutorials etc please?

I have never used or even looked at a 3d printer before.

I've designed a hook made out of a piece of packing foam to hold the self closing shower screen in my bathroom out of the way for cleaning, by hooking it the over the basin. I would like to make a proper 3d printed version of this.

I have an Ender3 V2 3d printer but have no idea where to start to tell it to print a copy of the 'prototype' I've made out of the foam.

eg - do I take a picture(s) of the hook and feed it into an app somehow and specify some dimensions? What type of filament should I use? etc etc.

So any pointers on good beginners books/guides or YouTube tutorials etc would be most welcome.
You can only scan something like that and then run it through a slicer like cura which tells the printer how to print it.

You would really need to draw it in fusion 360 and then run it through the cura slicer program which then tells it to print.

Lots of good fusion videos on YouTube.

Crafty_

13,289 posts

200 months

Sunday 21st April
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GasEngineer said:
Any advice on beginners books/guides YouTube tutorials etc please?

I have never used or even looked at a 3d printer before.

I've designed a hook made out of a piece of packing foam to hold the self closing shower screen in my bathroom out of the way for cleaning, by hooking it the over the basin. I would like to make a proper 3d printed version of this.

I have an Ender3 V2 3d printer but have no idea where to start to tell it to print a copy of the 'prototype' I've made out of the foam.

eg - do I take a picture(s) of the hook and feed it into an app somehow and specify some dimensions? What type of filament should I use? etc etc.

So any pointers on good beginners books/guides or YouTube tutorials etc would be most welcome.
As above, there are 3d scanners that can scan an object and then create the model file from which you can get an STL which you can then slice.
I have seen apps for phones that do it, from what I've seen they rely on you moving the phone to various positions around the time. No idea how successful they are.

Failing that you need to draw it in a 3d program. You have various options, some of which are free. I've used tinkercad before, which after a little getting used to is ok for basic shapes https://www.tinkercad.com/ lots of videos to help on YT.

In terms of filament, you could use PLA but suspect it may not last long, it can be quite brittle and I'm not sure it likes being in/around water. I think I'd go for PETG, it has a bit more flex in it and does better around water. You could use ABS, which would probably be better still but you need an exclosure/extraction of fumes for that.


S6PNJ

5,182 posts

281 months

Sunday 21st April
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THis is a good palce to start - https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html Go through the calibration steps in order on your printer and you'll start to understand what it does and how it does it.

I'd suggest Tinkercad as an 'easy' start when it comes to designing - Fusion360, whilst extremely capable, has a much steeper learning curve and I'm still designing things on Tinkercad having had my Ender 5 Pro for almost 2 years now.

When designing on Tinkercad, think in terms of squares, circles, triangles etc and how they make up the actual shape. Ocne you have your design, you'll need to export it as an .stl file and use something like Ultimaker Cura to 'slice' it so that your 3D printer can print it. If you preview the Cura output, layer by layer, it can also show up any design flaws such as where things don;t quite touch or intersect etc as the 'printing' lines won't be continuous.

durbster

10,277 posts

222 months

Sunday 21st April
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I keep finding myself in situations where I think, "if I had a 3D printer I could solve this," so now it's got into my head I've spent the weekend reading up on them. I know my way around Blender so I should be OK making the models myself.

One thing that has always put me off is the amount of waste plastic it must generate. I presume there will be plenty of mistakes along the way (especially in the early days) and as far as I can tell the waste isn't recyclable so what do you all do with failed prints? Do they just go in the bin?

Crafty_

13,289 posts

200 months

Monday 22nd April
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Both PLA and PETG are recycable.

From a 1kg reel you generally don't lose that much to failures provided you set your machine up properly.
If you'e designing stuff yourself you might make a prototype or two until you get your final design, but unless you're doing very large prints you won't use much - if you get a slicer like cura it'll tell you how much filament will be used.

fiatpower

3,043 posts

171 months

Tuesday 23rd April
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If you want to save material on prototyping you can also break your models down into small bits for test prints. I've done a few large prints and the areas i've been concerned about for printing i've cut out of the model in CAD and made little versions until they were right. Once all the sections were confirmed like that I joined them together for a large print which looked great.