sl r129 anyone taken the risk on a 3/4k car

[tobinen]

I've done it on my CL following r129sl's instruction. It's not too bad but I have had the cluster out a fair few times to change bulbs so I was familiar with that part.

You need to lift the face with the numbers on with a flat blade, rotate and re-stick (existing glue was fine on mine). No need to remove the tachometer (I think) but I did

Pics here but you will need to enable the Photobucket add-on to view them in your browser.

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

Quite a few 140s and 129s are affected. I think VDO's QC department must have had an extended holiday after a very boozy work's night out.

Edited by tobinen on Sunday 24th June 09:56

Edited by tobinen on Sunday 24th June 09:58

Edited by tobinen on Sunday 24th June 10:05

[Crook]

Deefor62 said:

That really is such a good looking combination.

Mine drained its battery after a couple of weeks of inactivity. Bought a Ctek and tried it after a short charge: car started but ABS and ADS lights on. Arse.
Turned off then started again now just ADS. Double arse.
Car obviously hates me.
Don’t drive it to work in the glorious sunshine. Put it back on charge and think maybe it needs more juice.
Same thing next morning.
Another day not enjoying it.
Read internet, get home, turn wheel from lock to lock...

it had better be sunny tomorrow !

[harrykul]

I think I've got that issue! What did those articles put it down to please?

[jke11y]

Following this eBay sale with interest; the “11k” of work reference is no doubt why it’s now past the £2k car it looks like.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2...

[Crook]

harrykul said:

I think I've got that issue! What did those articles put it down to please?

Apparently it’s in the handbook too. It’s the angle (I think) sensors for the front wheels that forget the alignment so after a battery disconnect you need to reset which is full lock each way. It should only need doing once after the battery is reconnected. Hope this helps.

[Hereward]

tobinen said:

...You need to lift the face with the numbers on with a flat blade, rotate and re-stick (existing glue was fine on mine). No need to remove the tachometer (I think) but I did

Pics here but you will need to enable the Photobucket add-on to view them in your browser.

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

Quite a few 140s and 129s are affected. I think VDO's QC department must have had an extended holiday after a very boozy work's night out.

Thank you.

[Crook]

And it was all going so well...

Mine had on occasion a bit of a dashboard moment when the indicators or hazards were on. I found it did it more often if something else electrical was on like the seats or stereo so I put it down to a low charge on the battery.

It seems it was actually preparing for a full on assault.

Got in the car this morning, started, roof down and drove off then the dashboard lit up like Close Encounters. Not ideal at all. Turn around and park car up and try to put roof up.

Nope. Switch flashes but nothing else.

Longer story short, I checked dashboard fuse and relay fuse and have come to terms with it needing three capacitors but I need to get the roof up.

I’ve tried resetting with window up + 5 seconds, right, left, roll bar, roof button held down 5 seconds. Nothing.

Read the internet and maybe remove fuse 3 from boot fuse box, ok only I manage with my amazing dexterity to catch it momentarily on fuse 2.

Roof still doesn’t go up and now windows need three presses before they go down. I’m hoping it’s just codes that need clearing (really really hoping).

Disconnected the batterery and reconnected gave no change.

It’s just called me outside by sounding its alarm and a rapid clicking from behind the fuse box in the engine bay.

So I’ve disconnected the battery so it can think about what it’s done.

I think it’s a recovery to a specialist.

Marvellous.

If you’re wondering why I haven’t put the top up with the tool it’s because I have just found out I don’t have one. Perfect!

Off to Ebay for a roof tool...

[Zonergem]

PM your address and I'll post you one on loan if desperate or put you in touch with anyone I know who has one. You're in London, aren't you? It's really just a 10mm very thin spanner and a 6mm hex key. Don't pay more than £26 and check Mercedes dealers first, they're probably still available.

[Zonergem]

The box behind the engine compartment fuse box is full of relays, hence the clicking. I'm wondering about a bad earth or something.

[Crook]

That’s very kind, will see if I can get one tomorrow, but if I get really stuck I’ll give you a shout. Thank you.

It’s booked in to Wayne Gates next week for a service so looks like the list just got longer.

And re location, almost, about half an hour north.

If/ when it returns to health and before the weather breaks it would be good to get a bit of an SL get together.

[Crook]

Update:
Got a roof spanner from MB for £19 and roof is up.

I would recommend every owner checks their tool roll and replace theirs if it’s missing.

They’re quite useful when you need them!

[pcn1]

Crook said:

Update:
Got a roof spanner from MB for £19 and roof is up.

I would recommend every owner checks their tool roll and replace theirs if it’s missing.

They’re quite useful when you need them!

After its winter hardtop removal, my convertible roof didnt want to operate fully. Tried the window up down trick but still failed.
I used the tool and put it up manually (note to self: carry copy of instructions in car with the tool !) and then it worked perfectly straight after. Letting all the mirco switches operate reset everything I can only assume.
So yes, top advice. Carry that roof tool !

[Crook]

Hi

Could anybody vouch for these guys please? GSF no longer stock the Mann filter element.

In-line filters

Thanks

[Zonergem]

No experience but looks legit. Have you checked the price from Merc?

Part number equivalent is correct

[Crook]

Thanks. And no.
Weirdly Eurocarparts have them cheap on eBay but less cheap in store.

[PositronicRay]

Insurance has gone right up this yr

94 320 now £280 pa, not garaged and used as a daily. I'm with Saga largely due to FOC comp European cover.

Who do you guy's use?

[Crook]

I use Lancaster. I’m on 5k pa and they were substantially cheaper than others. They are a broker but still the best deal for me. £200 and something from memory.

[jke11y]

Had a bit of a result today on Gumtree reasonably local - picked up another set of Albali wheels in much better nick than the set I have, and they have half-worn Eagle F1s which will pass an MOT unlike the current set on the car. £260 which I thought was pretty good.
Going to get it MOTd and use it more before summer is up.

[Crook]

Update to my car going in:

Roof and windows are fine. That's a big phew.
Service is done as is door check strap.
However it does need disks, pads and a steering damper.

I've spoken to MB parts and the brakes are £186.66 with MB oc discount and the damper is £38.46.

I've looked at GSF and read up on who make OEM etc. and the pads there are Jurid who are an OEM. There isn't anything on the disks other than 'Premium' and the damper is more expensive than MB.

Ordinarily I would always go for disks from the manufacturer but as ever would appreciate anyone else's knowledge on OEM parts if possible please?

Thanks.

ETA:

Have found a sachs steering damper: https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/sachs/787662?grmk=1&...
for £24.40

Edited by Crook on Monday 30th July 13:43

[Zonergem]

Sachs steering damper went in on SL2 last autumn, have a feeling it was around that price.

I think ATE are the OEM for lots of the braking system.