Your experiences of undersealing; waxoyl, lanoguard etc
Discussion
seabod91 said:
Krikkit said:
seabod91 said:
It’s all about preparation.
For a proper job your looking at close to 4-5 days.
Strip ALL old underseal to bear metal.
Zinga primer, roll on.
Corrales glass reinforced paint,
Buzzweld war paint,
Bilt hamber dynax S-50 cavity protection, plug up all drain holes and saturate over night.
All this is pointless if there is any rust already that is not treated / cut out.
Contact Anand viad on Facebook. He is tho only one I know to do a proper job.
So that's an drivetrain, suspension and fuel tank out job then to do it properly, even then you miss lots of areas not accessible with a grinder. Best completely strip it to a bare shell and have it dipped, prepped and re-painted then... For a proper job your looking at close to 4-5 days.
Strip ALL old underseal to bear metal.
Zinga primer, roll on.
Corrales glass reinforced paint,
Buzzweld war paint,
Bilt hamber dynax S-50 cavity protection, plug up all drain holes and saturate over night.
All this is pointless if there is any rust already that is not treated / cut out.
Contact Anand viad on Facebook. He is tho only one I know to do a proper job.
FWIW I agree with you about using the right products, and wouldn't bother using Waxoyl as it's pointless.
For a thorough job, you probably want something like the "Extreme" package that these guys do:
https://www.cskautomotive.co.uk/the-rust-preventio...
Don't know if they're any good, but it seems to cover everything. Doing it to that level yourself is a huge faff though, so probably worth the five or six hundred quid.
For DIY, a clean up and application of the Bilt Hamber stuff probably takes a weekend and less than £100 in materials, or just a liberal spraying of ACF 50 over everything costs under £40 and takes less than an hour.
The last two, whilst not perfect, are probably more than most cars get and, assuming things are in reasonable shape to start with, offer a fairly reasonable level of protection. Personally I'l do the BH approach every 3 or 4 years, with an annual spraying of ACF-50 to keep things topped up.
So, it really depends on how much effort/money you want to spend, but even doing the minimum is better than nothing.
One thing I would suggest is that doing it in sept/oct seems a good time, as the weather is still warm and dry enough for it not to seem torturous, and is just ahead of the winter cold when roads might get salted.
https://www.cskautomotive.co.uk/the-rust-preventio...
Don't know if they're any good, but it seems to cover everything. Doing it to that level yourself is a huge faff though, so probably worth the five or six hundred quid.
For DIY, a clean up and application of the Bilt Hamber stuff probably takes a weekend and less than £100 in materials, or just a liberal spraying of ACF 50 over everything costs under £40 and takes less than an hour.
The last two, whilst not perfect, are probably more than most cars get and, assuming things are in reasonable shape to start with, offer a fairly reasonable level of protection. Personally I'l do the BH approach every 3 or 4 years, with an annual spraying of ACF-50 to keep things topped up.
So, it really depends on how much effort/money you want to spend, but even doing the minimum is better than nothing.
One thing I would suggest is that doing it in sept/oct seems a good time, as the weather is still warm and dry enough for it not to seem torturous, and is just ahead of the winter cold when roads might get salted.
Bobupndown said:
Marc p said:
So with my old Supra, after dropping all the subframe, petrol tank, etc, I waxoyl’d the underneath, but not liking the oily finish, I just covered it with Halfords matt black spray paint to give it a nicer and dry to the touch finish. It didn’t react and held up well.
Before:
After Waxoyl:
After Matt black on top:
Certainly helped it look a lot more OEM without the ‘oily’ finish when back together:
You used paint, on top of waxoil?? Can imagine that will stick too well!Before:
After Waxoyl:
After Matt black on top:
Certainly helped it look a lot more OEM without the ‘oily’ finish when back together:
nessiemac said:
Sebring440 said:
seabod91 said:
Contact Anand viad on Facebook. He is tho only one I know to do a proper job.
There are hundreds of "Anand Viad"s on Facebook. Which one is it?https://www.facebook.com/ruztynutz
105.4 said:
Get someone else to do it. Seriously.
It’s a crappy, dirty job. One which after you’ve bought all the necessary materials and spent 3-4 days doing it, it’s probably going to be cheaper.
There’s a company near me that specialises in rust-proofing the chassis of trucks and busses. They steam clean the underside before spraying waxoil / dinitrol etc underneath. I did enquire a few years ago and was quoted around £400.
Sounds good to me. Any recommendations in the North West?It’s a crappy, dirty job. One which after you’ve bought all the necessary materials and spent 3-4 days doing it, it’s probably going to be cheaper.
There’s a company near me that specialises in rust-proofing the chassis of trucks and busses. They steam clean the underside before spraying waxoil / dinitrol etc underneath. I did enquire a few years ago and was quoted around £400.
ChocolateFrog said:
seabod91 said:
Niponeoff said:
Go to this guy in Dudley, cost about £250, while you wait.
Get all my cars done here
https://www.krown.co.uk/
Much like ACF50 and others if that type. 2 year guarantee.
May be fine as a winter top up depending what he is spraying on. But the op has older cars with original underseal, if there is moisture under the underseal all that’s doing is trapping it. The two year warranty is “ you won’t be able to see the rust for two years”. Get all my cars done here
https://www.krown.co.uk/
Much like ACF50 and others if that type. 2 year guarantee.
dhutch said:
nessiemac said:
Sebring440 said:
seabod91 said:
Contact Anand viad on Facebook. He is tho only one I know to do a proper job.
There are hundreds of "Anand Viad"s on Facebook. Which one is it?https://www.facebook.com/ruztynutz
I'm really sceptical about the <1 day options. It cannot allow any prep time so any product is going on over the top of existing rust, salt, crud and moisture and is going to trap it there. I think I'd rather nothing than that. I paid quite a lot of money to get our 996 done with Dinitrol but it took over a week. No strip down as I guess you have to draw the line somewhere but all exposed surfaces were wire brushed then thoroughly cleaned and dried before any product went near it. That alone took 4 days though I think at least a day of that is drying time. Not a job I'd fancy DIY'ing unless I had a full height lift and a lot of time on my hands. Seems a good investment though if the cars a keeper. Can't comment on what product is best other than to say the BH and Dinitrol certainly seem to be well regarded.
I am a recent happy customer of preserve and protect, near Glasgow.
They have pics on their website, but I can upload some pics of what they did to my car, drop off on a Saturday, pic up the following Saturday (or earlier if it goes well), get pics of the progress, any welding is done on site, place was really clean, highly recommend!
They have pics on their website, but I can upload some pics of what they did to my car, drop off on a Saturday, pic up the following Saturday (or earlier if it goes well), get pics of the progress, any welding is done on site, place was really clean, highly recommend!
Peanut Gallery said:
I am a recent happy customer of preserve and protect, near Glasgow.
They have pics on their website, but I can upload some pics of what they did to my car, drop off on a Saturday, pic up the following Saturday (or earlier if it goes well), get pics of the progress, any welding is done on site, place was really clean, highly recommend!
I'd be really interested in seeing some pictures and also getting an idea of the cost.They have pics on their website, but I can upload some pics of what they did to my car, drop off on a Saturday, pic up the following Saturday (or earlier if it goes well), get pics of the progress, any welding is done on site, place was really clean, highly recommend!
Breaking my reply into 3 messages cause my brain can only cope with that.
Total cost, including VAT, was somewhere between 800 and 900, this was for a 65 reg smax / mk5 mondeo that had spent the first 3 years of its life down in southern England, then moved up to non stop gritted roads in Scotland.
If you send them pictures of your car he could get a quote / estimate back to you - when I was there he had a Jag up on a lift and some new sills in the post on the way to him - and another transit with a large number of arrows for "weld here" taped onto it. There was also a subaru who did not want any suspension bits covered.
After he had taken all the panels off, it looked like this-
(he sends pictures to you via whatsapp)
Total cost, including VAT, was somewhere between 800 and 900, this was for a 65 reg smax / mk5 mondeo that had spent the first 3 years of its life down in southern England, then moved up to non stop gritted roads in Scotland.
If you send them pictures of your car he could get a quote / estimate back to you - when I was there he had a Jag up on a lift and some new sills in the post on the way to him - and another transit with a large number of arrows for "weld here" taped onto it. There was also a subaru who did not want any suspension bits covered.
After he had taken all the panels off, it looked like this-
(he sends pictures to you via whatsapp)
Next up everything gets covered in rust converter, I did not catch the name of what he used.
(if anyone could tell me what is under the front passenger seat in this pic, please do say, looks like a radiator, but I cannot work it out! - I may have to remove some panels to work it out myself)
(if anyone could tell me what is under the front passenger seat in this pic, please do say, looks like a radiator, but I cannot work it out! - I may have to remove some panels to work it out myself)
Peanut Gallery said:
I am a recent happy customer of preserve and protect, near Glasgow.
They have pics on their website, but I can upload some pics of what they did to my car, drop off on a Saturday, pic up the following Saturday (or earlier if it goes well), get pics of the progress, any welding is done on site, place was really clean, highly recommend!
Thanks for posting up the photos and costs and also the message with more info. It looks a good job. They have pics on their website, but I can upload some pics of what they did to my car, drop off on a Saturday, pic up the following Saturday (or earlier if it goes well), get pics of the progress, any welding is done on site, place was really clean, highly recommend!
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