swirlpot 3000s
Discussion
i have just found a very small leak on the swirlpot. It's around the small pipe that goes to the crossflow rad.
I Wonder if it's Worth getting it fixed as it looks like the original swirlpot.
I think it's best to buy a new one in stainless or alloy.
The last thing i want to do is take a risk then have the engine overheat because of a leak.
So what's you ideas chaps, fix it or bite the bullet and buy a nice new stainless swirlpot with lots of bling
Alan
I Wonder if it's Worth getting it fixed as it looks like the original swirlpot.
I think it's best to buy a new one in stainless or alloy.
The last thing i want to do is take a risk then have the engine overheat because of a leak.
So what's you ideas chaps, fix it or bite the bullet and buy a nice new stainless swirlpot with lots of bling
Alan
Because of the additional pipe that is fitted to the TVR there is no standard S/S or alloy neck that fits with out modification...S/S and mild steel (they use a modified brass neck) require additional pipe 'should' be silver soldered on (to the brass neck) prior to the neck being soft soldered onto the tank top using the CORRECT fluxes to suit the mild or S/S that you are using. Alloy necks require the additional pipe to be added using a TIG welder (which is an art form in it self, as I TIG weld but cannot work to that fine detail, on such thin materials) so expect to pay good money for a one that in the past I see rot away!
Working on your old unit I would advise that you have the neck removed, a NEW, longer additional pipe 'silver' soldered on, THEN this assembly soft soldered back onto the top tank and the soft solder bridging under the pipe for support (as there is almost zero strength in the brass to connect the additional pipe...IF you look at the brass OE fitting it is a flange joint that is NOT possible to recreate).
Adrian@
Working on your old unit I would advise that you have the neck removed, a NEW, longer additional pipe 'silver' soldered on, THEN this assembly soft soldered back onto the top tank and the soft solder bridging under the pipe for support (as there is almost zero strength in the brass to connect the additional pipe...IF you look at the brass OE fitting it is a flange joint that is NOT possible to recreate).
Adrian@
Edited by Adrian@ on Tuesday 17th February 09:37
The advice Adrian has given is the best way to sort this but as a quick fix that will work you could just remove the soldered on pipe thats leaking and replace it with a bolt in type. But you can only do this with the type of swirlpot that seals only at the top, with this being for a 3000s I think you will be ok. All you need is one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151014225863?_trksid=p20... an m8 nut fibre washer and some thread tape. I have done this before with permanent lasting results.
chris
chris
That sounds a little low to me and may result in your fans having to overwork. I would have thought that a 90-85 would be better or even higher but I would build in an override switch on the dash to help in heavy traffic with a little Led light so you know when your fans are on. Just my opinion others may disagree.
Chris
Chris
The water in the swirl pot will be a higher temp than the water in the rad as it flows from the engine into the swirl pot then into the rad. The original switch will have been on the rad where the water would have cooled a degree or two if you bring the switch closer to the engine you should increase the temp that the switch kicks the fan on. Please correct me if I'm wrong but this is how I see it
Chris
Chris
I see what you mean.
When i receive the alloy Swirlpot i will fit it and just fit blanks.
There is already a working system with a sensor bulb Inside the return hose from rad.
It works correctly and is adjustable with led warning light + override switch.
I will do a check with my IR Thermometer after a run .
thanks for comments
Alan
When i receive the alloy Swirlpot i will fit it and just fit blanks.
There is already a working system with a sensor bulb Inside the return hose from rad.
It works correctly and is adjustable with led warning light + override switch.
I will do a check with my IR Thermometer after a run .
thanks for comments
Alan
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