paint run over
Discussion
was respraying underside of kitcar roof as rubbing against body so flipped roof over foam taped offending bits 3 coats satin black 2 coats lacquer and venture tape carefully remooved tape flipped roof over reattached to car and found 2 identical pain truns on exterior of roof approx 2 inch long-now dry obviously
anyone got any words of wisdom or sarcasm
thanks
martin
anyone got any words of wisdom or sarcasm
thanks
martin
You might get away with wet sanding the runs (on the outside of the roof?). You'll have to be careful you don't go through the existing paint around the run, so maybe use a rubbing block. You'll then have to polish up the paintwork as the wet sanding will make it dull. You might have to go up to 1200 or 1500 grade wet & dry and even then it will leave sanding marks, so 2000 and 3000 grade will be needed to reduce these marks, before polishing to a shine.
You might risk using some thinners on a cloth, but it may well damage the surrounding paint, so it's a judgement call on your part. Worst case, it sounds like you can paint (sort of
), so you may have to respray the roof if you f
k it up.
You might risk using some thinners on a cloth, but it may well damage the surrounding paint, so it's a judgement call on your part. Worst case, it sounds like you can paint (sort of
), so you may have to respray the roof if you fk it up.Be careful with run razors on fresh paint as if adjusted to cut too deep or with a dull blade they can just pull a big lump off. Even correctly adjusted they sometimes seem do that for fun
Don't even contemplate rubbing over with thinners.
I've often managed to get rid of runs or sags by putting a hard plastic filler spreader between the wet&dry (used wet, 1500 or 2000 grit)and the sanding block. Have the chamfered edges of the spreader facing towards the surface to be sanded. This gives a dead flat sanding surface & avoids the tendency of the sanding block to follow the contour of the bit you want to flatten which can result in breaking through near to the run/sag. Be VERY careful, take it slowly, check frequently & rinse frequently with clean water to avoid any lumps/grit getting caught on the surface as it will damage the surface & then its likely to be game over.
Don't even contemplate rubbing over with thinners.
I've often managed to get rid of runs or sags by putting a hard plastic filler spreader between the wet&dry (used wet, 1500 or 2000 grit)and the sanding block. Have the chamfered edges of the spreader facing towards the surface to be sanded. This gives a dead flat sanding surface & avoids the tendency of the sanding block to follow the contour of the bit you want to flatten which can result in breaking through near to the run/sag. Be VERY careful, take it slowly, check frequently & rinse frequently with clean water to avoid any lumps/grit getting caught on the surface as it will damage the surface & then its likely to be game over.
Edited by paintman on Tuesday 21st June 21:32
Gassing Station | Bodywork & Detailing | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff