Joining the 993RS fold...
Discussion
Greetings to fellow 993RS owners. I actually bought mine 4 months ago, but been having so much fun driving it, I've not got around to introducing myself here!
The spec is as follows; 1995 build, LHD, Polar Silver, elec windows, air-con, sport comfort seats, half roll cage. Bought from GT Classics who were superb (thanks Paul!). It had done 60k kms when I bought it - I've added nearly 10k in 4 months!! I've been on autobahns, Nurburgring, been to Le Mans and had a track outing at Bedford. Initially unconvinced, now a total convert...
Anyway, I have a few teething questions which I was wondering if any of you experts could help me with - any advice MUCH appreciated.
1. Limited slip differential: I gather the 993RS has ABD as opposed to a basic LSD. I don’t understand what is the difference and therefore don’t understand what impact it’s going to have on the handling. Any thoughts?
2. Funny warning light: When I start the car, occasionally one of the warning lights stays on until I move the car. It’s the light in the oil temp/pressure bezel on the bottom left. The graphic is of a disc with two arrows facing each other. What is it and what does it mean?
3. Steering wheel: thinking about replacing the airbag wheel with the clubsport item. Is this a DIY job, or does removal of an airbag wheel involve complications?
4. Windscreen: the windscreen seems to suffer from classic 993 creaking-in-its-seals. Is there a cure for this?
5. Brakes: occasionally getting some brake squeal on low-speed application (ie: in town) – any idea why? Cures? Also, what pads do you recommend as replacements for road use or track days?
6. Servicing: not clear how often I should get the car serviced and what should be done on each occasion. Any hints? Also, I’ve got an outlet of Camtune near me at Canary Wharf – would you recommend using them?
Loads of questions - but help (or links to previous answers to same questions) much appreciated
Thanks!
RRG
The spec is as follows; 1995 build, LHD, Polar Silver, elec windows, air-con, sport comfort seats, half roll cage. Bought from GT Classics who were superb (thanks Paul!). It had done 60k kms when I bought it - I've added nearly 10k in 4 months!! I've been on autobahns, Nurburgring, been to Le Mans and had a track outing at Bedford. Initially unconvinced, now a total convert...
Anyway, I have a few teething questions which I was wondering if any of you experts could help me with - any advice MUCH appreciated.
1. Limited slip differential: I gather the 993RS has ABD as opposed to a basic LSD. I don’t understand what is the difference and therefore don’t understand what impact it’s going to have on the handling. Any thoughts?
2. Funny warning light: When I start the car, occasionally one of the warning lights stays on until I move the car. It’s the light in the oil temp/pressure bezel on the bottom left. The graphic is of a disc with two arrows facing each other. What is it and what does it mean?
3. Steering wheel: thinking about replacing the airbag wheel with the clubsport item. Is this a DIY job, or does removal of an airbag wheel involve complications?
4. Windscreen: the windscreen seems to suffer from classic 993 creaking-in-its-seals. Is there a cure for this?
5. Brakes: occasionally getting some brake squeal on low-speed application (ie: in town) – any idea why? Cures? Also, what pads do you recommend as replacements for road use or track days?
6. Servicing: not clear how often I should get the car serviced and what should be done on each occasion. Any hints? Also, I’ve got an outlet of Camtune near me at Canary Wharf – would you recommend using them?
Loads of questions - but help (or links to previous answers to same questions) much appreciated
Thanks!
RRG
Hi RRg, sounds like you are enjoying the car.
Are they the only questions you have?
1, not totally sure of the diffence myself, i thought it has an lsd and abd in addition.
Many 993 RS have ineffective lsd as the standard diff plates wear and cease to function.You can check by jacking the car up at the rear and spin the wheels,if they both turn at the same speed,,,not good.
The cure is to replace with Porsche motorsport diff plates, which are a lot more durable.
in terms of handling it helps stability under braking and putting the power down, particularly those tight 2nd gear corners on track days.
2; the light stays on until the brake boost pump is up to pressure, you probably hear some whirring from under the front luggage compartment as well?
3; I wouldn't DIY it myself in case the airbag went off! don't think it that difficult, but you will need to visit a garage/specialist to de activate the airbag warning light that will otherwise be on for ever more. Unless you just take the bulb out of the warning light.
4; There are various ways of lubing the screen surround, some use wd40... you can get some screen lube from autoglass or whoever as they use this to assist in fitting screens on older cars.
5; brakes...what pad material are you running? what condition are your discs? if you are using pagid or any of the uprated trackday pads they will always squeal a bit....if standard pads,,,you should have anti squeal pads which stick on to the brake pads and locate in the piston of the calipers...these work well and are about 2 quid each...8 required per axle.
6; I would take my car to somebody with a lot of RS experience, there are a few of these guys around,,easier to answer if you drop a hint to your location.
Nothing against Camtune at all, but you really need experts to get the best out of these cars.
I hope the above gets close to answering some of you questions,,fortunately Top Gear is poor this week so I had time to respond......
I accept no responsibility for the vagueness of any response, I do not really have an RS, I am 12 years old and my Mum thinks I am tidying my room as I type this
Are they the only questions you have?
1, not totally sure of the diffence myself, i thought it has an lsd and abd in addition.
Many 993 RS have ineffective lsd as the standard diff plates wear and cease to function.You can check by jacking the car up at the rear and spin the wheels,if they both turn at the same speed,,,not good.
The cure is to replace with Porsche motorsport diff plates, which are a lot more durable.
in terms of handling it helps stability under braking and putting the power down, particularly those tight 2nd gear corners on track days.
2; the light stays on until the brake boost pump is up to pressure, you probably hear some whirring from under the front luggage compartment as well?
3; I wouldn't DIY it myself in case the airbag went off! don't think it that difficult, but you will need to visit a garage/specialist to de activate the airbag warning light that will otherwise be on for ever more. Unless you just take the bulb out of the warning light.
4; There are various ways of lubing the screen surround, some use wd40... you can get some screen lube from autoglass or whoever as they use this to assist in fitting screens on older cars.
5; brakes...what pad material are you running? what condition are your discs? if you are using pagid or any of the uprated trackday pads they will always squeal a bit....if standard pads,,,you should have anti squeal pads which stick on to the brake pads and locate in the piston of the calipers...these work well and are about 2 quid each...8 required per axle.
6; I would take my car to somebody with a lot of RS experience, there are a few of these guys around,,easier to answer if you drop a hint to your location.
Nothing against Camtune at all, but you really need experts to get the best out of these cars.
I hope the above gets close to answering some of you questions,,fortunately Top Gear is poor this week so I had time to respond......
I accept no responsibility for the vagueness of any response, I do not really have an RS, I am 12 years old and my Mum thinks I am tidying my room as I type this
RRG said:
1. Limited slip differential: I gather the 993RS has ABD as opposed to a basic LSD. I don’t understand what is the difference and therefore don’t understand what impact it’s going to have on the handling. Any thoughts?
When wound up (i.e >40% on power ramps) will cause the front end to push slightly wide into corners, as effectively you're running more of a solid rear axle than in a non-LSD car. As clubsport says, get the plates replaced, but make sure whoever does it knows how to shim the thing correctly and torque it up, otherwise you will destroy the diff very quickly...
RRG said:
5. Brakes: occasionally getting some brake squeal on low-speed application (ie: in town) – any idea why? Cures? Also, what pads do you recommend as replacements for road use or track days?
missing anti-squeel shims - as per c/sports response. The pagid range of pads is universally recommended, but hawk, performance friction, etc, also do some good pads. You need to ensure that you get some pads which are a good compromise when cold and that they are not too aggressive in their application - personal pref really though. Have you got braided hoses and SRF fluid already (& brake ducting) - keeping things cool often helps the friction coefficient of standard pads and prevents (or at least helps to prevent) fade.
RRG said:
6. Servicing: not clear how often I should get the car serviced and what should be done on each occasion. Any hints? Also, I’ve got an outlet of Camtune near me at Canary Wharf – would you recommend using them?
If you don't mind travelling to Bicester (about 45 miles west of london), try using Andy Fearns @ AMD (google it). He's worked on lots of RSs and race engines and is a really nice guy to deal with and will not try and b/shit you like several 'independants'. JZ machtech are also very good. (IMHO)
Gentlemen
many thanks for the immediate and very full replies! (top gear was rubbish wasn't it?)
as for location, I'm in central london so recommendations of RS specialists in the vicinity would be great.
Clubsport - spot on with the warning light, it is accompanied by a pump noise up-front - I thought it was the fuel pump, doh!
You've got me all worried about the LSD - I'll get it checked at the next service. Apart from the jack-it-up routine any other symptoms you would notice if it wasn't working properly?
Finally, what sort of service intervals do you guys work to? Presumably depends on extent of track useage etc...
thanks for the help guys
RRG
many thanks for the immediate and very full replies! (top gear was rubbish wasn't it?)
as for location, I'm in central london so recommendations of RS specialists in the vicinity would be great.
Clubsport - spot on with the warning light, it is accompanied by a pump noise up-front - I thought it was the fuel pump, doh!
You've got me all worried about the LSD - I'll get it checked at the next service. Apart from the jack-it-up routine any other symptoms you would notice if it wasn't working properly?
Finally, what sort of service intervals do you guys work to? Presumably depends on extent of track useage etc...
thanks for the help guys
RRG
RRG said:
Gentlemen
as for location, I'm in central london so recommendations of RS specialists in the vicinity would be great.
RRG
I'm in central London but travel out to Peter Tognola Engineering in Datchet, Berks (2 mins walk from BR station) - he owns one and there are always a few RS's there. I think you should make the effort to travel out of town to get top work done on your RS. As far as I'm aware there are no 993RS specialists' in central London.
Brgds
Piers
993RS
>> Edited by roygarth on Monday 12th July 13:54
Hi RRG,
Glad you're enjoying the car and thanks for sending the pic, I forgot how good they look in Polar Silver.
It looks like most of the questions have been answered, but I'll add my opinion anyway. My personal preference on pads is to stick to the OEM pads unless you're going to run sticky tyres and do lots of track work, then I use Pagid Blue. Pad choice will also have an impact on disk life and higher temperatures will mean big cracks from the crossed drilled holes.
Your car has an LSD and also ABD. ABD is a form of traction control where the ABS sensors are used to monitor wheel speed. The rear wheel/s will be braked slightly to reduce wheel spin. I believe this only works upto a certain speed though and is deactivated at higher speeds. I've heard a figure of 44 mph.
Worn LSD friction plates mean that the locking will be less as the friction plates wear. An experienced RS driver will notice that the car wont adjust it's line on the throttle as well as a car with fresh friction plates. These items are considered wear and tear items on an RS, so don't panic. To check; sit the car on a flat level surface, leave the hand brake off and chock the wheels so it wont go anywhere. Jack one side up slightly just to get one of the rear wheels of the ground. Turn the wheel with your hands and if it takes a lot of effort it is probably ok. If it turns far too easily then the friction plates are probably worn.
Glad you're enjoying the car and thanks for sending the pic, I forgot how good they look in Polar Silver.
It looks like most of the questions have been answered, but I'll add my opinion anyway. My personal preference on pads is to stick to the OEM pads unless you're going to run sticky tyres and do lots of track work, then I use Pagid Blue. Pad choice will also have an impact on disk life and higher temperatures will mean big cracks from the crossed drilled holes.
Your car has an LSD and also ABD. ABD is a form of traction control where the ABS sensors are used to monitor wheel speed. The rear wheel/s will be braked slightly to reduce wheel spin. I believe this only works upto a certain speed though and is deactivated at higher speeds. I've heard a figure of 44 mph.
Worn LSD friction plates mean that the locking will be less as the friction plates wear. An experienced RS driver will notice that the car wont adjust it's line on the throttle as well as a car with fresh friction plates. These items are considered wear and tear items on an RS, so don't panic. To check; sit the car on a flat level surface, leave the hand brake off and chock the wheels so it wont go anywhere. Jack one side up slightly just to get one of the rear wheels of the ground. Turn the wheel with your hands and if it takes a lot of effort it is probably ok. If it turns far too easily then the friction plates are probably worn.
RRG said:
3. Steering wheel: thinking about replacing the airbag wheel with the clubsport item. Is this a DIY job, or does removal of an airbag wheel involve complications?
Best to get someone else to do it. If you are like me with fists of ham and fingers of butter you'll end up setting it off into the side of your head which, whilst amusing now, is really quite an unpleasant experience.
Add to that the need to store it in a certain way as it's classed as an explosive device (i.e. not face down on the floor).
I dont have a 993 RS, but I am slowly trying to bring my 993 C2 towards RS spec. However, I can endorse Peter and Greg at Tognola Engineering as they have given me quality advise (therapy) and help, over the last couple of years on my journey down the slippery slope!
I`ve seen many lovely RS`s and the odd RSR spec. car at Tognola during my visits. I would strongly endorse the guy`s enthusiasm and knowledge of the marque and you could do a lot worse by not talking to them.
Enjoy your privilege, whilst you own the car!
I`ve seen many lovely RS`s and the odd RSR spec. car at Tognola during my visits. I would strongly endorse the guy`s enthusiasm and knowledge of the marque and you could do a lot worse by not talking to them.
Enjoy your privilege, whilst you own the car!
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