Talk to me about E46 330 autoboxes.
Discussion
I need to know 3 things.
1,What oil.
2,How to check the oil.
3,How to drain the oil.
I have access to a pit and I'm thinking of checking or changing the oil, the car has just hit 80k, and lately I've noticed it holds its gears to long when cold, oil is going to be my first check.
Anyone done any of the above as a DIY.
Thanks.
1,What oil.
2,How to check the oil.
3,How to drain the oil.
I have access to a pit and I'm thinking of checking or changing the oil, the car has just hit 80k, and lately I've noticed it holds its gears to long when cold, oil is going to be my first check.
Anyone done any of the above as a DIY.
Thanks.
It's not a difficult job if you have the equipment, there are lots of guides on various forums. However the cost of the fluid is outrageous when purchased in small quantities. My local autobox specialist did the whole job for less than I could buy the fluid and filters.
This is the only task I ever farm out, it just doesn't make sense to DIY. If you are determined to do it then a B+Q garden spray pump is ideal for refilling the box, this is what I used to service my mates Omega autobox which uses reasonably priced fluid.
This is the only task I ever farm out, it just doesn't make sense to DIY. If you are determined to do it then a B+Q garden spray pump is ideal for refilling the box, this is what I used to service my mates Omega autobox which uses reasonably priced fluid.
Luca Brasi said:
Nigel Worc's said:
Is yours not a "sealed for life" ZF, like mine ?
BMW claims the boxes are sealed for life, they're not, believe me.I do work at ZF's British arm, in Nottingham, (electronics, nothing to do with the actual boxes).
They have advised me, as has my indy specialist, to leave these boxes well alone, if you are one of the unlucky ones having problems, especially on such a low mileage one as the OP's, the oil is unlikely to be causing/have caused damage.
It's worth a try I suppose, if he wishes, but as he descibes it "holding gears", this is what it does when the cats aren't at temperature ...... the gearbox may not be at fault, it may be doing what it is told.
Sorry op if you've already investigated this, and it isn't the case.
Nigel Worc's said:
Luca Brasi said:
Nigel Worc's said:
Is yours not a "sealed for life" ZF, like mine ?
BMW claims the boxes are sealed for life, they're not, believe me.I do work at ZF's British arm, in Nottingham, (electronics, nothing to do with the actual boxes).
O
They have advised me, as has my indy specialist, to leave these boxes well alone, if you are one of the unlucky ones having problems, especially on such a low mileage one as the OP's, the oil is unlikely to be causing/have caused damage.
It's worth a try I suppose, if he wishes, but as he descibes it "holding gears", this is what it does when the cats aren't at temperature ...... the gearbox may not be at fault, it may be doing what it is told.
Sorry op if you've already investigated this, and it isn't the case.
I've noticed the same thing with the 6-speed auto box in my 2008MY 525d - a reluctance to change up below 2300rpm when cold. I assume that it's normal, and the car just doesn't want to load the engine too much by dropping to below 1500rpm after the up-change.
The 4-speed Tiptronic box in my 911 does the same thing, but hangs on until about 2800rpm.
Both work "normally" after a couple of miles.
The 4-speed Tiptronic box in my 911 does the same thing, but hangs on until about 2800rpm.
Both work "normally" after a couple of miles.
clockworks said:
I've noticed the same thing with the 6-speed auto box in my 2008MY 525d - a reluctance to change up below 2300rpm when cold. I assume that it's normal, and the car just doesn't want to load the engine too much by dropping to below 1500rpm after the up-change.
The 4-speed Tiptronic box in my 911 does the same thing, but hangs on until about 2800rpm.
Both work "normally" after a couple of miles.
I believe, (because it's what I'm told), that the engine will hold the revs higher in gears, until the cats reach temperature.The 4-speed Tiptronic box in my 911 does the same thing, but hangs on until about 2800rpm.
Both work "normally" after a couple of miles.
OP, it is only my advice, I've no idea how savvy you are with these things, from experience, I'd pop my car along to my trusted specialist and ask what is wrong with it, my specialist will do a diagnosis for about £45, it'll cost you more than that in oil.
I've checked your profile and it says you're in Cheshire, my specialist is in Wolverhampton, if that isn't too far, I'd recommend him to you :
http://pwebdesign.brinkster.net/bmeuroservice/cont...
If the car has done around 60-80'000 miles, it's often worth dropping the sump, replacing the filter screen and topping up with new oil - it may well extend the life of the box if you plan to run the car until 250'000 miles. Occasionally it can make an improvement to shift quality but it can also be a placebo.
5hp19s are generally good.
Main issues are the torque converter, they have a weak seal inside which causes it to lose pressure and not to allow the TCC to lockup. Eventually the box overheats and dies.
No fluid changing will sort this out, the only way is a rebuild TC and fresh fluid as soon as you get the TCC error code. Look at paying around 550 if this is the case.
Other than that they're solid boxes.
If you're before 100k, change the fluid. It's safe as you will never get all of it out, some will remain in the TC which is fine.
You want to use LT71141 fluid. It's yellow not red.
Avoid red LT1171 spec meeting fluid, you can't use this stuff unless you're strating with a completely drained box and all the fluid will be one type.
You don't want to mix lt71141 yellow with lt71141 spec red fluid for example. You'll get frothing and more issues.
So your plan is :
Check error codes, if you have the TCC code, get a new TC or wait for the box to die and rebuild it for 1200 + vat . or get a rebuild TC on there for 450 + vat.
If you have no error codes then change the fluid with LT71141 yellow fluid. You can get it from i6automotive.
You also want a Filtran filter, nothing else, some aftermarket ones collapse/whine. And then the gasket aswell, no sealant, just a gasket.
Main issues are the torque converter, they have a weak seal inside which causes it to lose pressure and not to allow the TCC to lockup. Eventually the box overheats and dies.
No fluid changing will sort this out, the only way is a rebuild TC and fresh fluid as soon as you get the TCC error code. Look at paying around 550 if this is the case.
Other than that they're solid boxes.
If you're before 100k, change the fluid. It's safe as you will never get all of it out, some will remain in the TC which is fine.
You want to use LT71141 fluid. It's yellow not red.
Avoid red LT1171 spec meeting fluid, you can't use this stuff unless you're strating with a completely drained box and all the fluid will be one type.
You don't want to mix lt71141 yellow with lt71141 spec red fluid for example. You'll get frothing and more issues.
So your plan is :
Check error codes, if you have the TCC code, get a new TC or wait for the box to die and rebuild it for 1200 + vat . or get a rebuild TC on there for 450 + vat.
If you have no error codes then change the fluid with LT71141 yellow fluid. You can get it from i6automotive.
You also want a Filtran filter, nothing else, some aftermarket ones collapse/whine. And then the gasket aswell, no sealant, just a gasket.
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