Bosch Coil - a strange request.....
Discussion
....I would like to make, to my fellow Chim owners...
I have a infuriating problem where my Chim 'hesitates' when accelerating - under full 'loud' pedal despressment (is that such a word?) I get a hiccup - as if the car have been starved of fuel for 0.3 of a second - which is beginning to annoy the hell out of me...(and could easily shorten the lift of the drive shafts etc)...
....and it doesn't always do it - sometimes one hiccup on a 40 mile drive - and 20 on a 3 mile drive....
...it can be hot, cold, rainy or overcast - it makes no difference....
I have replaced the following:-
Dist cap
HT leads
Rotor arm
And the problem still exists.....
So what I would like to do is to borrow a Bosch coil, stick it in and see if this cures the problem - if it does, great, I will go a and buy one....if not, then it will have only cost me postage, rather than the £40 plus for a new one I do not need...
Can anyone help here?
Thanks in advance
Nosh.
PS - I am missing my car, as it is in for rear boot painting and rear end blending.....
I have a infuriating problem where my Chim 'hesitates' when accelerating - under full 'loud' pedal despressment (is that such a word?) I get a hiccup - as if the car have been starved of fuel for 0.3 of a second - which is beginning to annoy the hell out of me...(and could easily shorten the lift of the drive shafts etc)...
....and it doesn't always do it - sometimes one hiccup on a 40 mile drive - and 20 on a 3 mile drive....
...it can be hot, cold, rainy or overcast - it makes no difference....
I have replaced the following:-
Dist cap
HT leads
Rotor arm
And the problem still exists.....
So what I would like to do is to borrow a Bosch coil, stick it in and see if this cures the problem - if it does, great, I will go a and buy one....if not, then it will have only cost me postage, rather than the £40 plus for a new one I do not need...
Can anyone help here?
Thanks in advance
Nosh.
PS - I am missing my car, as it is in for rear boot painting and rear end blending.....
How old is your coil?
If it's more than 5 or 6 years old, frankly I'd just replace it unless money is tight. The coil lives a hard life on these engines, bathed in heat. It's only a matter of time before it fails, and that's what trapped me in the arse-end of nowhere in the s
ttiest part of Paris last year and forced me to leave it there while the AA repatriate it (2 weeks later).
It does sound like it might be the coil; mine started misfiring badly at high RPM on the day it failed. If you replace it and you've still got the problem, then at least you've dramatically reduced the chances of suffering a future failure - it won't be money wasted.
Edited to add: The other thing it could be, with similar symptoms, is the ignition amp ("amplificateur d'allumage" as the French say). This is probably a similar price to the coil, so if you can afford it I'd just rip that out and replace it at the same time as the coil, for all the same reasons. I reckon access will be slightly easier with the coil off, too.
If it's more than 5 or 6 years old, frankly I'd just replace it unless money is tight. The coil lives a hard life on these engines, bathed in heat. It's only a matter of time before it fails, and that's what trapped me in the arse-end of nowhere in the s
ttiest part of Paris last year and forced me to leave it there while the AA repatriate it (2 weeks later).It does sound like it might be the coil; mine started misfiring badly at high RPM on the day it failed. If you replace it and you've still got the problem, then at least you've dramatically reduced the chances of suffering a future failure - it won't be money wasted.
Edited to add: The other thing it could be, with similar symptoms, is the ignition amp ("amplificateur d'allumage" as the French say). This is probably a similar price to the coil, so if you can afford it I'd just rip that out and replace it at the same time as the coil, for all the same reasons. I reckon access will be slightly easier with the coil off, too.
Edited by Dr Mike Oxgreen on Tuesday 26th February 06:19
Hi Nosh - Hows it going ? My chim is away being fixed or I'd pop over and lend you mine - and bring my ECUmate over to check it all over at the same time.
If you dont get it sorted in the next couple of weeks I should have everything back so give me a shout and I'll drop it over and we can have a play.
If you dont get it sorted in the next couple of weeks I should have everything back so give me a shout and I'll drop it over and we can have a play.
You will need to be very specific tooking at the ECUmate data, as its a fuel only diagnostic. ignition faults can show up as bad lambda readings, but it needs to be pretty bad (not just a glitch) to be picked up. Things you can check- glitchly rev counter for primary switching failing (amp or coil connections)or read the RPM on the ECU mate. Check the lambda readings generally. They should be constantly moving until you nail the throttle, at which point I think they will default to 128 and stop switching as the ECU goes open loop- but check the manual on this one.
Talking of this area- it has been known for the connections to fail that lead to the distributor trigger head- they break internally, and the disconection occurs as the timing plate moves with the change in vacuume. You will see the rev counter drop suddenly for a moment if this is the fault.
Funny, I experience this problem. Spoke to a colleague of mine that services our Police vehicles; particularly the V8 Land Rovers etc. He advised me that there is a sensor (small wire loop i think)in the air flow meter that gets dirty and I should clean it carefully with a small brush and some carb cleaner.
Haven't got round to doing it yet though.
John
Haven't got round to doing it yet though.
John
Not a chance of cleaning it with a brush- its tiny and inside a recessed hole in the AFM casting on the 14CUX set up. You can try squirting some carb cleaner down the hole, but any dirt is likey to be baked on by the fact its a hot wire. Id be suprised if this was the issue unless the engine was already running too rich,(A high AFM output can do this) and the extra fuel put in when you floor it is enough to overfuel the engine badly and produce a flat spot. AFM's certainly get a hard time in the TVR engine bay due to the extreem heat of the exhaust.
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