Laying a car up over winter
Discussion
I'm taking an old Golf GTI off the road over winter and just wondered if there's anything I need to do.
Car was put away dry and clean, it's in a dry and clean garage and is connected permanently to a Ctek battery charger. Should I start the car periodically or leave it? Any advice? Thanks.
Car was put away dry and clean, it's in a dry and clean garage and is connected permanently to a Ctek battery charger. Should I start the car periodically or leave it? Any advice? Thanks.
Try not to start it unless you are going for a drive, most engine wear occurs at start up so you'll simply be adding wear. If your concerned about lubrication due to a long lay over, feel free to turn the engine over by hand.
Increase the pressure in the tyres. (Ideally you'd put it on axle stands)
Cover the exhaust(s) to prevent rodents taking up residency.
Top up the fuel tank or use a fuel stabiliser.
Increase the pressure in the tyres. (Ideally you'd put it on axle stands)
Cover the exhaust(s) to prevent rodents taking up residency.
Top up the fuel tank or use a fuel stabiliser.
turing it over moves a bit of oil up n down the bores and moves the cambelt , not sure if the belts sufffer from being in one position for ages
stand my 2 golfs up every winter , dont seem to suffer at all
as said above dont start it unless you can warm it all through , the exhuast will sit wet otherwise
stand my 2 golfs up every winter , dont seem to suffer at all
as said above dont start it unless you can warm it all through , the exhuast will sit wet otherwise
In years gone by ( I am that old) it was standard practice to chock the car up off the tyres grease all sorts of suspension points spray engine oil/paraffin under the chassis to deter rust and hand crank regularly for all the reasons stated in the excellent replies so far.
Having some 15 cars classic cars and kit cars currently I have tried ALL of these devices time and again over the years. With modern cars, modern paints mdern lubricants and in a truly dry garage I do thnk most can now be ignored. Modern tyres will gnerally not deteriorate in the dark under relatively light load. It also dpends on how long the car will be standing. Over a winter the methods suggested would suffice. Over two years the list above would pay dividends.
Having some 15 cars classic cars and kit cars currently I have tried ALL of these devices time and again over the years. With modern cars, modern paints mdern lubricants and in a truly dry garage I do thnk most can now be ignored. Modern tyres will gnerally not deteriorate in the dark under relatively light load. It also dpends on how long the car will be standing. Over a winter the methods suggested would suffice. Over two years the list above would pay dividends.
TallPaul said:
jon- said:
Keeping oil moving around the engine, to avoid "rust"
How fast would you need to crank it to get the oil to the outer reaches of the engine? Personally, I'd just give it a good clean and blow the tyres up. 4 or 5 months wont have any noticeable effect.splash gti said:
Any advice? Thanks.
How much money do you think you are actually going to "save" by doing that?IMO it's much better to keep the car used all year round, just taking it out on the better days and avoiding the worst roads. Cars really don't like being parked up for months on end. And it depreciates just as fast whether it's driven or parked!
Ozzie Osmond said:
splash gti said:
Any advice? Thanks.
How much money do you think you are actually going to "save" by doing that?IMO it's much better to keep the car used all year round, just taking it out on the better days and avoiding the worst roads. Cars really don't like being parked up for months on end. And it depreciates just as fast whether it's driven or parked!
I'm imaging the OPs reasoning are the same for an old Golf, assuming its a Mk1 or 2.
I always put my old Audi away in my dampish garage over winter and never have any problems come April when it sees daylight again.
All I do is remove the battery terminals and leave the handbrake off and inflate the tyres to 40 psi also I put some dehumidifier's in the car just to stop any mould ( 3 for a pound in the local pound shop).
Also I wash and put a good coating of wax on the old girl just before she goes away to keep any rust at bay and wash it down and wipe the wax off come spring.
Old VWs are made of granite I can't see you having any issues.
All I do is remove the battery terminals and leave the handbrake off and inflate the tyres to 40 psi also I put some dehumidifier's in the car just to stop any mould ( 3 for a pound in the local pound shop).
Also I wash and put a good coating of wax on the old girl just before she goes away to keep any rust at bay and wash it down and wipe the wax off come spring.
Old VWs are made of granite I can't see you having any issues.
for me in the past up on axle stands
handbrake off
if manual use a block of wood and the seat to keep clutch depressed
leave as little fuel in it as possible
before hand, wash dry pilish
change oil
dont set alarm, jsut lock the doors
when using it for first time after taking of axle stands
hand crank the engine a few turns, put in some fresh fuel from a can
check oil and water and other fluids
check tyre pressures
release clutch
turn car over with out any throtle
once its running leave for a few mins to settle
drive a few feet and check brakes then a few more feet and brakes, then a slow gentle drive
wash polish etc
handbrake off
if manual use a block of wood and the seat to keep clutch depressed
leave as little fuel in it as possible
before hand, wash dry pilish
change oil
dont set alarm, jsut lock the doors
when using it for first time after taking of axle stands
hand crank the engine a few turns, put in some fresh fuel from a can
check oil and water and other fluids
check tyre pressures
release clutch
turn car over with out any throtle
once its running leave for a few mins to settle
drive a few feet and check brakes then a few more feet and brakes, then a slow gentle drive
wash polish etc
Most of our machines are used seasonally. I put away a diesel pump only yesterday, I just blew the rad out (because I will forget in the spring) put some anti freeze in the pump and disconnected the battery. When it gets used again it will just get fired up and left running for 10 or 11 hours at a time. There is no need to turn the engine over.
The combine gets blown down and greased then left for 9 months. Tyres can be more of a problem, over inflate them a bit and if they do go down make sure you re inflate them because it puts a crease in the side wall and buggers them up.
If the car is in a nice, dry building you should hardly notice any difference when you come to se it again.
The combine gets blown down and greased then left for 9 months. Tyres can be more of a problem, over inflate them a bit and if they do go down make sure you re inflate them because it puts a crease in the side wall and buggers them up.
If the car is in a nice, dry building you should hardly notice any difference when you come to se it again.
I leave my Evo in the garage for 4-6 months at a time, depending on work and time of year. It had to sit for 16 months a few years ago while I lived a abroad.
I leave it on trickle charge, handbrake off, in a dry garage. I used to remove the fuel pump fuse and crank it for 30 seconds or so with the plugs out to get oil pressure up......on the advice of a supercar specialist friend, I don't even bother with that now, oil pressure is instantaneous when started.
The tyres feel a bit square for 50 miles or so until they get properly hot, then are fine. I drive it reasonably gently until it's low on the old fuel, then brim it with fresh. It starts and runs fine on the last of the remaining fuel, even after 16 months!
It's been subjected to this regime for 10 years now, and it's been an extraordinarily reliable car.
I leave it on trickle charge, handbrake off, in a dry garage. I used to remove the fuel pump fuse and crank it for 30 seconds or so with the plugs out to get oil pressure up......on the advice of a supercar specialist friend, I don't even bother with that now, oil pressure is instantaneous when started.
The tyres feel a bit square for 50 miles or so until they get properly hot, then are fine. I drive it reasonably gently until it's low on the old fuel, then brim it with fresh. It starts and runs fine on the last of the remaining fuel, even after 16 months!
It's been subjected to this regime for 10 years now, and it's been an extraordinarily reliable car.
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