Installing Induction Range Cooker

Installing Induction Range Cooker

Author
Discussion

tbodsworth

Original Poster:

33 posts

131 months

Wednesday 29th January 2014
quotequote all
Hi, I'm going to be getting a new kitchen soon and as part of this I want to replace our old electric oven and separate gas hob with an electric induction range cooker. I will get a professional to disconnect the gas hob, and an electrician will be installing the new range.

My question before I commit to buying a new range cooker is this, I guess the range will use much more electric power so do I need to check my electrics have the capacity to run an electric induction range cooker or will the electrician who installs it be able to sort any problems?

Thanks, Tom.

bigdom

2,087 posts

146 months

Wednesday 29th January 2014
quotequote all
Depends on what the spec of old and new oven in overall draw, just come back from a kitchen planning session, induction hob draws 11kw alone. I'm assuming in your case it would just be part of the cooker ring circuit, although that might require an upgrade. I would get an idea before you commit.

Wozy68

5,392 posts

171 months

Wednesday 29th January 2014
quotequote all
tbodsworth said:
Hi, I'm going to be getting a new kitchen soon and as part of this I want to replace our old electric oven and separate gas hob with an electric induction range cooker. I will get a professional to disconnect the gas hob, and an electrician will be installing the new range.

My question before I commit to buying a new range cooker is this, I guess the range will use much more electric power so do I need to check my electrics have the capacity to run an electric induction range cooker or will the electrician who installs it be able to sort any problems?

Thanks, Tom.
You need to sort what you have before you order the cooker, and if need be get it uprated before the cooker arrives.
Induction hobs on their own need a big power supply. Included within an oven .... I'm assuming an even bigger supply.

Simpo Two

85,538 posts

266 months

Wednesday 29th January 2014
quotequote all
The specification sheet for the cooker you want will tell you what the power requirement is.

My induction hob states 32A, the cooker 13A. Luckily I had a circuit for each.

tbodsworth

Original Poster:

33 posts

131 months

Thursday 30th January 2014
quotequote all
Thanks for the replies guys. I'm getting an electrician to come and have a look before I order anything.

From what I've been reading online I think I'll be ok with a standard 30 or 32A supply.

The cooker that I'm interested in has a wattage of 16.7kW (!!)

So a total of 73ish amps. Using the diversity calculation I found online (First 10A + 30% of remaining total) that makes 10 + (63x0.3) = 29ish amps.

Is that correct?

NH1

1,333 posts

130 months

Thursday 30th January 2014
quotequote all
tbodsworth said:
Thanks for the replies guys. I'm getting an electrician to come and have a look before I order anything.

From what I've been reading online I think I'll be ok with a standard 30 or 32A supply.

The cooker that I'm interested in has a wattage of 16.7kW (!!)

So a total of 73ish amps. Using the diversity calculation I found online (First 10A + 30% of remaining total) that makes 10 + (63x0.3) = 29ish amps.

Is that correct?
Not really, diversity is used when calculating the incoming supply, not really to determine the individual cable supply. for example even if you have a 100A cut out fuse the electric distribution company rate each house connected to the grid at about 3KW or about 13 amps so they get away with connecting lots of houses to a 400A feeder cable.

I would say though that the 16.7kW is the total load if everything was on together, however sometimes its not possible to have the grill on at the same time as the oven or similar. It would need a dedicated supply from the mains unit in any case, you could either wire it in 6mm and have a 40A max breaker covering it or wire it in 10mm and put it on a 50A or possibly a 63A one.

On a side note I dont know if anyone has ever taken a large oven or cooker to bits but you have say a 6mm cable going to it and after the terminal block inside is a lot of much thinner wiring going to the various switches and elements, none of this is ever fused down internally so you are basically protecting a 1mm cable with a 40A breaker, if anything goes wrong internally it would make a bit of a mess before the breaker eventually tripped.

tbodsworth

Original Poster:

33 posts

131 months

Thursday 30th January 2014
quotequote all
Ok thanks for the info. I certainly won't be touching anything myself but I like to try to understand what's going on.