Rear brake pads part No.
Discussion
Need to change the rear pads this weekend. Have done it before and remember they are from a Sierra but I remember last time it took them about x3 goes to get me the correct ones. Does anyone know the part No. or what model and year Sierra they are off.
I also remember what a Bast##d it was to adjust the piston back, from memory they screw in, anyone advise on how to screw them back?
L10 TVR
I'll also be changing the oil, haven't got the handbook with me so can anyone tell me the oil capicity?
I also remember what a Bast##d it was to adjust the piston back, from memory they screw in, anyone advise on how to screw them back?
L10 TVR
I'll also be changing the oil, haven't got the handbook with me so can anyone tell me the oil capicity?
There is only one Sierra rear brake calliper so almost any standard Sierra model will do.
As for the tool to wind the pistons back. Halfords £20 for the Sick-as-Pickvant version which is first rate or £10 for the Draper cube version which isn't so good but does the job sort off. A can of brake cleaner is a good idea as they often need a bit of a clean to get them to free up.
Steve
As for the tool to wind the pistons back. Halfords £20 for the Sick-as-Pickvant version which is first rate or £10 for the Draper cube version which isn't so good but does the job sort off. A can of brake cleaner is a good idea as they often need a bit of a clean to get them to free up.
Steve
Alex,
When I got my rear pads for the Griff I took the old one's down to Halfords in Guildford who then looked them up in the Ferodo parts book (actually marked TVR) there are several sorts but I managed to get the correct ones first time using the book.
Also the brake wind-back tool - got mine from Road Power on Anchor Hill in Knaphill about £15 did the job perfectly but don't do as I did and forget to release the top of the reservoir.....
If you get into trouble give me a shout.
Otherwise I'll probably see you on Tuesday....
Andy.
When I got my rear pads for the Griff I took the old one's down to Halfords in Guildford who then looked them up in the Ferodo parts book (actually marked TVR) there are several sorts but I managed to get the correct ones first time using the book.
Also the brake wind-back tool - got mine from Road Power on Anchor Hill in Knaphill about £15 did the job perfectly but don't do as I did and forget to release the top of the reservoir.....
If you get into trouble give me a shout.
Otherwise I'll probably see you on Tuesday....
Andy.
Mintex 1286 if you want the warning light cable, fitted to the V6 Sierras with rear discs.
Mintex 1287 for the Chim without the warning light cable.
From www.mintex.co.uk
As with all things please check.
Mintex 1287 for the Chim without the warning light cable.
From www.mintex.co.uk
As with all things please check.
I hope this helps
Ferodo Rear pads FDB398.
Ferodo Front pads FDB206.
Why Note Change the discs as well, just had a quote and bought a full set 2 front vented and 2 rear solid discs for £50 all in from local motor factor.
I couldn't believe the price myself !!!!!!!.
BLOODY BARGAIN !!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ferodo Rear pads FDB398.
Ferodo Front pads FDB206.
Why Note Change the discs as well, just had a quote and bought a full set 2 front vented and 2 rear solid discs for £50 all in from local motor factor.
I couldn't believe the price myself !!!!!!!.
BLOODY BARGAIN !!!!!!!!!!!!!
quote:
Need to change the rear pads this weekend. Have done it before and remember they are from a Sierra but I remember last time it took them about x3 goes to get me the correct ones. Does anyone know the part No. or what model and year Sierra they are off.
I also remember what a Bast##d it was to adjust the piston back, from memory they screw in, anyone advise on how to screw them back?
L10 TVR
I'll also be changing the oil, haven't got the handbook with me so can anyone tell me the oil capicity?
The capacity is 6.5L, Don't waste your time with Mobil 1 or any light synthetic oil, try Castrol semi magnetec 10W -40 or Castrol Magnetec 15W - 40.
Best thing to wind the calibers back is a 4 1/2" grinders disc locking tool, fits perfect.
Please please check the pads because there have been around 10 different brake combinations fitted to the Chimaera over its lifetime and many do not fit!
Second thing is pattern parts may be ok for a standard road car but are very marginal for a TVR where tyou want the brakes to work everytime. Road pads can quickly overheat and die. Pattern brakes have been known to warp very quickly and even crack under heavy TVR use.
In the end brakes are like tyres, don't skimp or you may regret it one day. A few extra pounds for an uprated pad or a decent disc is a lot cheaper than several thousand for a body repair.
Second thing is pattern parts may be ok for a standard road car but are very marginal for a TVR where tyou want the brakes to work everytime. Road pads can quickly overheat and die. Pattern brakes have been known to warp very quickly and even crack under heavy TVR use.
In the end brakes are like tyres, don't skimp or you may regret it one day. A few extra pounds for an uprated pad or a decent disc is a lot cheaper than several thousand for a body repair.
quote:
Please please check the pads because there have been around 10 different brake combinations fitted to the Chimaera over its lifetime and many do not fit!
Second thing is pattern parts may be ok for a standard road car but are very marginal for a TVR where tyou want the brakes to work everytime. Road pads can quickly overheat and die. Pattern brakes have been known to warp very quickly and even crack under heavy TVR use.
In the end brakes are like tyres, don't skimp or you may regret it one day. A few extra pounds for an uprated pad or a decent disc is a lot cheaper than several thousand for a body repair.
Ferodo have been making brake pads for years with a very good reputation, The only non patterned part is a factory made part. You name it most manufacturers are selling patterned parts such as EBC, Mintex etc, to get on the band wagon like everyone else. and as for the discs they are the proper ford replacements. Uprated pads and discs are ok for track days or racing, but without 2 or 4 pot calipers,braided hoses, silicone brake fluid and an uprated master cylinder i can't see the full benefit. What TVR's need is an ABS braking system.
I've been forced to use standard road parts on odd occassions and they are simply not upto the job. A couple of hard braking sessions and they fade and give up. Managed it with a couple of roundabouts as well. They have very limited recovery which means that once they have overheated their performance is not as good as they were when new.
Its your car and your choice but I think this is a false economy. I use Ferodo pads and they are good but they are not the standard road compound supplied for Sierras etc because they do not offer the level of performance to match the car's acceleration.
In the end, its your choice but I wouldn't do it.
Steve
Its your car and your choice but I think this is a false economy. I use Ferodo pads and they are good but they are not the standard road compound supplied for Sierras etc because they do not offer the level of performance to match the car's acceleration.
In the end, its your choice but I wouldn't do it.
Steve
quote:
I've been forced to use standard road parts on odd occassions and they are simply not upto the job. A couple of hard braking sessions and they fade and give up. Managed it with a couple of roundabouts as well. They have very limited recovery which means that once they have overheated their performance is not as good as they were when new.
Its your car and your choice but I think this is a false economy. I use Ferodo pads and they are good but they are not the standard road compound supplied for Sierras etc because they do not offer the level of performance to match the car's acceleration.
In the end, its your choice but I wouldn't do it.
Steve
I've done 6000 miles in the car since i bought it and not once have i experienced brake fade under hard braking or frequent braking, what kind of speeds are you hitting the roundabouts at ?. yes i agree, if i drove flat out everywhere and braked hard behind every car or approaching a junction i may suffer brake fade, but those days are long behind me.
quote:
Thanks for the help guys.
But can you tell me what the tool for winding the brakes back is called?
>> Edited by L10 TVR on Friday 2nd August 10:17
This made me chuckle as Halford call their's a Brake Caliper Piston Winder on the box from memory
You'll not go far wrong with that.
Dave
quote:
I've done 6000 miles in the car since i bought it and not once have i experienced brake fade under hard braking or frequent braking, what kind of speeds are you hitting the roundabouts at ?. yes i agree, if i drove flat out everywhere and braked hard behind every car or approaching a junction i may suffer brake fade, but those days are long behind me.
So based on the fact that you don't drive the car hard, would you fit remoulds or lesser speed rated tyres to your car on the grounds that you never do anywhere near these speeds? It is the same argument except this practice renders your insurance invalid as the tyres are not upto the original spec.
You may not brake as hard as I and others do and find that your setup is OK. I and many others have tried it and found it woefully inadequate. At least both sides of the story is out there and other owners can make an informed decision about what they want to do.
Steve
quote:
quote:
I've done 6000 miles in the car since i bought it and not once have i experienced brake fade under hard braking or frequent braking, what kind of speeds are you hitting the roundabouts at ?. yes i agree, if i drove flat out everywhere and braked hard behind every car or approaching a junction i may suffer brake fade, but those days are long behind me.
So based on the fact that you don't drive the car hard, would you fit remoulds or lesser speed rated tyres to your car on the grounds that you never do anywhere near these speeds? It is the same argument except this practice renders your insurance invalid as the tyres are not upto the original spec.
You may not brake as hard as I and others do and find that your setup is OK. I and many others have tried it and found it woefully inadequate. At least both sides of the story is out there and other owners can make an informed decision about what they want to do.
Steve
Thats what i like open these forums open debates and users opinions, anyway enough of that,
I'll try the standard pads first and if i find i start to suffer from brake fade I will upgrade to a better pads such as EBC or something similar, you should of seen the state of the rear discs that came off with only a 1/2" braking line on one side of each disc, even more worrying their condition wasn't even picked up on the last 36000 mile dealer service.
The discs i've fitted are made by BRADI and come with a 12 month warranty, they mostly supply discs for motorsport and rallying.
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