Wet UFH leak. How will it be fixed?

Wet UFH leak. How will it be fixed?

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Discussion

Squiggs

Original Poster:

1,520 posts

156 months

Thursday 10th December 2015
quotequote all
Long story short.
New extension was finished in March.
It's only just turned cold - the heating has only just gone on.
Have to keep re-pressurising the system.
Having eliminated every other possibility it seems the wet underfloor heating is leaking.

If the leak can be detected by thermal image can a 'spot repair' be made or has the whole loop got to be replaced?

rb5er

11,657 posts

173 months

Thursday 10th December 2015
quotequote all
Yes they do a joint repair section. Basically a metal fitting. Just need to find the leak.

silversurfer1

919 posts

137 months

Thursday 10th December 2015
quotequote all

As said yep small repair is easily possible.

You manifold should have isolation vales, shut down the ugh and isolate the valves to the manifold and see if the drop stops

ss



Squiggs

Original Poster:

1,520 posts

156 months

Thursday 10th December 2015
quotequote all
Cheers - for a while I imagined all the screed coming up and the damaged loop being completely reinstated.

Another couple of questions if I may.

I have three loops.
I have isolated the ufh from the rads (with a plumbers instructions I turned off two valves - one above the manifold and one below lol)) - but can I turn off each loop individually?
On (or around) the manifold are three large 'knobs' - the centres of which rise up when that loop is being heated.
Can these Knobs be turned on/off to isolate each loop?
If so through a process of elimination I'd be able to find out which loop is dropping pressure - turn that loop off and maintain some heating through the other two.

Gingerbread Man

9,171 posts

214 months

Thursday 10th December 2015
quotequote all
Yes, you can isolate each loop singularly. That would help you find the source.

Best bet is to get hold of a thermal imaging camera or a leak detection man. Get the system (ufhing) hot and the camera should he able to accurately follow the hot pipework. Where the camera shows a fuzzyness of heat as opposed to a neat line, that'll be where the hot water is dissipating. This works best in solid floors. You should be able to put a penny on the mark, dig up the floor and be bob on.

Squiggs

Original Poster:

1,520 posts

156 months

Thursday 10th December 2015
quotequote all
Thanks chaps.