Suspension Refurb Using New Everything.. How To Preserve

[m4tti]

Looking to see what others have done. I removed every single suspension component from my Tuscan, the suspension arms are being re-powder coated, every bolt is being replaced, the zinc passivated parts such as the top ball joint mount and the bottom steering arm have been replaced with new, new hub/bearing assemblies all round and new track rod ends and top and bottom ball joints.

Obviously everything looks awesome at the moment, but the parts taken off the car had that buried at sea appearance. Whats the best way to preserve these apart from not driving the car.

1. Acid etch and put a satin black finish on the hubs, ball joints, track rods and ends and leave the rest
2. Scuff everything and clear coat
3. Do nothing apart from coating every thing in a mist of ACF50.

Has any one tried the ACF50 option, if so how did it work out?

[trickywoo]

Powder coat where practical and stainless steel for nuts and bolts.

Acf will work but you would need to clean and reapply weekly if you are driving in rain / salt etc

[Jakg]

trickywoo said:

stainless steel for nuts and bolts

Stainless Steel usually doesn't have the same strength as the high tensile bolts found in suspension applications.

[m4tti]

Correct, stainless isn't an option on the suspension bolts. Standard stainless simply doesn't have the strength.

All of the other components like the wishbones and uprights are powder coated, it's more things like the ball joint mounting plate and the hubs.. The hubs are straight steel so am considering the painting option.

[m4tti]

trickywoo said:

Powder coat where practical and stainless steel for nuts and bolts.

Acf will work but you would need to clean and reapply weekly if you are driving in rain / salt etc

If thats the case with the ACF50 i'll do that then, as this car never sees rain.. Its too terrifying lol

[E-bmw]

Stainless shouldn't be used anyway, it will actually accelerate rust on non-stainless parts it is in contact with.

[227bhp]

Avoid powder coating is my advice, it's st!

[samnorthy]

When I did my T350 rebuild I had all chassis & suspension parts Hot zinc sprayed then painted in 2 pack.

All nuts bolts were zinc passivated (above comments are correct re Stainless - dont use on critical joints).

After assembly I covered all bolt/nut heads with this product DINITROL 4010 - ENGINE COATING WAX it laves a thin layer of protective clear wax. so far no rusty bolts or fittings. And I do drive my car in all conditions )

[m4tti]

Excellent. Thanks Sam. I'll give the Dinitrol a go! Hoping to keep it all looking like this (dark bits on the uprights are actually pits in the casting)



How far will a 500ml aerosol can go. Would I need one or two?

Edited by m4tti on Sunday 10th April 18:38

[samnorthy]

I used two cans for the full build. I painted the back of the wheel bearings - I just used Hammerite