Help me scratch my (996) itch?
Discussion
New poster so go gentle although long time lurker.
My boyhood dream was always a 911 and I can no longer stand the itch. Kids are gone, no more Uni fees etc and a modest pot to play with.
I have been to see a couple of Porkers, the first was a 996 convertible with a "FSH" - which unfortunately when I got there (100 miles) meant last serviced in 2009 at a specialist and invoices for oil, coolant etc from the likes of eBay...
Next was a run of the mill 996 but low mileage, local to me but now sold.
Was supposed to see today an 85000 mile 2001 C2 convertible that looked immaculate, but half way into my 160 mile trip the guy rang to tell me he had just sold it despite contacting me over the weekend to say it was back on as the previous deal had fallen through.
I have widened my scope a little and have seen the 2 below models, both different, but most of my reading up has been on the 3.4 engine and non Targa. I know the Targa roof needs a good look at prior.
I was just hoping with the collective wisdom here on the board, that one or two kind souls might provide a couple of pointers / pitfalls with these 2 particular cars / models?
Many thanks in advance.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PORSCHE-911-996-CARRERA-...
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2017...
(Its my 1st post, I don't believe Ive broken any rules with re=posting the ads, but let me know if I have and I will edit the post).
My boyhood dream was always a 911 and I can no longer stand the itch. Kids are gone, no more Uni fees etc and a modest pot to play with.
I have been to see a couple of Porkers, the first was a 996 convertible with a "FSH" - which unfortunately when I got there (100 miles) meant last serviced in 2009 at a specialist and invoices for oil, coolant etc from the likes of eBay...
Next was a run of the mill 996 but low mileage, local to me but now sold.
Was supposed to see today an 85000 mile 2001 C2 convertible that looked immaculate, but half way into my 160 mile trip the guy rang to tell me he had just sold it despite contacting me over the weekend to say it was back on as the previous deal had fallen through.
I have widened my scope a little and have seen the 2 below models, both different, but most of my reading up has been on the 3.4 engine and non Targa. I know the Targa roof needs a good look at prior.
I was just hoping with the collective wisdom here on the board, that one or two kind souls might provide a couple of pointers / pitfalls with these 2 particular cars / models?
Many thanks in advance.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PORSCHE-911-996-CARRERA-...
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2017...
(Its my 1st post, I don't believe Ive broken any rules with re=posting the ads, but let me know if I have and I will edit the post).
Edited by Nobbly on Wednesday 12th April 00:01
Nobbly said:
New poster so go gentle although long time lurker.
My boyhood dream was always a 911 and I can no longer stand the itch. Kids are gone, no more Uni fees etc and a modest pot to play with.
I have been to see a couple of Porkers, the first was a 996 convertible with a "FSH" - which unfortunately when I got there (100 miles) meant last serviced in 2009 at a specialist and invoices for oil, coolant etc from the likes of eBay...
Next was a run of the mill 996 but low mileage, local to me but now sold.
Was supposed to see today an 85000 mile 2001 C2 convertible that looked immaculate, but half way into my 160 mile trip the guy rang to tell me he had just sold it despite contacting me over the weekend to say it was back on as the previous deal had fallen through.
I have widened my scope a little and have seen the 2 below models, both different, but most of my reading up has been on the 3.4 engine and non Targa. I know the Targa roof needs a good look at prior.
I was just hoping with the collective wisdom here on the board, that one or two kind souls might provide a couple of pointers / pitfalls with these 2 particular cars / models?
Many thanks in advance.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PORSCHE-911-996-CARRERA-...
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2017...
(Its my 1st post, I don't believe Ive broken any rules with re=posting the ads, but let me know if I have and I will edit the post).
You should seriously consider deciding if you really want a Cab vs. a coupe.My boyhood dream was always a 911 and I can no longer stand the itch. Kids are gone, no more Uni fees etc and a modest pot to play with.
I have been to see a couple of Porkers, the first was a 996 convertible with a "FSH" - which unfortunately when I got there (100 miles) meant last serviced in 2009 at a specialist and invoices for oil, coolant etc from the likes of eBay...
Next was a run of the mill 996 but low mileage, local to me but now sold.
Was supposed to see today an 85000 mile 2001 C2 convertible that looked immaculate, but half way into my 160 mile trip the guy rang to tell me he had just sold it despite contacting me over the weekend to say it was back on as the previous deal had fallen through.
I have widened my scope a little and have seen the 2 below models, both different, but most of my reading up has been on the 3.4 engine and non Targa. I know the Targa roof needs a good look at prior.
I was just hoping with the collective wisdom here on the board, that one or two kind souls might provide a couple of pointers / pitfalls with these 2 particular cars / models?
Many thanks in advance.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PORSCHE-911-996-CARRERA-...
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2017...
(Its my 1st post, I don't believe Ive broken any rules with re=posting the ads, but let me know if I have and I will edit the post).
Edited by Nobbly on Wednesday 12th April 00:01
Next newer is generally better. 'course, this is if all other things are equal and they seldom are.
Both cars are just used cars so you need to do a thorough used car check out of both cars.
This starts with a cold engine start. Turn off the A/C. You test this later. You first want to make sure all the warning lights, including the CEL, come on when the key is turned to on and all go off when the engine starts.
The engine should start and assume a cold idle speed with no real drama.
While the engine idles get out and check the body panels for any paint/finish issues, any gap issues. Check the brakes. A 1mm lip around the rotor is a sign the rotor is worn undersized and needs to be replaced. Budget for new pads, other brake hardware, and a brake fluid flush/bleed.
Check tires. If worn budget for new ones and just to know where you stand budget for a quality alignment too. With reasonable usage you should get 20K miles from the rear tires and double that from the fronts. Tires should be N-rated and all should be the same N number, the same brand, the same type of tire. Check the tire dates. Porsche considers a tire 6+ years old to be past its change by date.
As you do the above and more keep your ears tuned to the engine. You don't want to hear any abnormal noises as the engine idles and warms up.
Have the seller take you a test ride. The route should be around 15 miles long and give the driver a chance to demo the car as you intend to use it. Probably a mix of city driving boulevard cruising, some country road driving, and of course highway driving.
Early on have the driver perform a K-turn. You want to see a cold Tip handle changes in direction with no drama.
Back at the starting point change seats and drive the car over the same route and drive it the same way. Do your own K-turn to ensure the Tip handles this when warm too.
It is critical you spend some amount of time with the car in its natural state: engine running and on the road.
Back at the starting point you give the car a thorough used car check out. Assume nothing works until you confirm it does.
Couple of things: Check for signs of dampness under the seats. The security module is located on the floor of the cabin and any water in the cabin spells doom for this electronic gizmo. Check along the door bottoms for any signs of dampness. Door membranes can go bad and allow water from the dry side to the wet side. If this happens and isn't caught early on window and door gremlins are common but if the water leaks from the door to the cabin floor...
Check the body water drains under the front trunk lid. You'll need a Torx tool kit with security bits. A small hole in the center to clear a pip in the center of the screw head tool bit recess.
Remove the panels on either side of the battery. If you see lots of trash be sure you didn't miss any water, or signs of water, including a musty/moldy odor. If the car has been heavily perfumed... be afraid. Be very afraid.
If the car is dry you must clean the drains out before you wash it, it rains. If water overflows into the cabin a new security module is a big unneccessary expense to have to be out for the lack of prompt action.
While on the subject check the radiator ducts. These cars are just big old hoovers when the radiator fans are running. The radiator ducts collect trash. If one catches this early it can be blown out by shop air and someone who knows what he's doing. Otherwise, the bumper cover has to be removed and the ducts cleaned out. The A/C condenser needs to unbolted and gently swung out of the way to clean between the condenser and the radiator.
With the A/C on be sure both radiator fans are running and both blow the same amount and temperature (as best you can tell) air out.
After all of the above the general recommendation is to have the car given a pre purchase inspection (PPI). among other things this gets the car in the air so a careful/thorough check can be made for any leak sign. Every gasket, o-ring, seal, dust boot, hose, hose fitting, hydraulic line, line fitting, radiator, is checked for any leak sign.
Part of the reason for the longish road test is to get the engine/drivetrain hot to give any leak a chance to make itself known.
Couple of things about used car buying. One is price is not fact only an opinion. You are entitled to your opinion just as is the seller.
There is always another car. If you find something that really appears to be a deal killer don't hesitate to walk away. There's a car out there with your name on it. It just ain't the car you are looking at.
Have fun. I like to say the 2nd best thing to driving a Porsche is shopping for the first or next Porsche.
Happy shopping.
Nobbly said:
New poster so go gentle although long time lurker.
Welcome, and good luck. As Rockster says, the chase can be nearly as much fun as the catch where cars are concerned.You're in a good position, lurking here and asking questions and generally accumulating knowledge. A few pointers:
- Coupes will generally fetch less than cabs, especially from hereon into the summer, so unless you have your heart set on open top motoring, you'll get more car for your money with a coupe.
- Also have a look at the other forums. The 911uk.com one is busy and populated by people with a fair degree of knowledge. There are also classifieds on there too.
- Looking at cars, an extra pair of eyes is often handy. If you can take someone along who either knows his stuff or can be trusted to work of your brief, then checking for smoke/leaks/rattles on start-up and under load/coasting is simply not possible if you are in the car yourself.
Everyone has opinions. You need to decide what spec of car you want though to narrow your search.
I would buy a nice manual gearbox 996 C2 or C4 coupe. Get one with a sunroof if you like the sun.
Less to go wrong with the coupe compared to convertible and targa, lighter and drive 'better'.
With the huge range of cars your looking at, if you want the sun I would be buying a Boxster S.
I would buy a nice manual gearbox 996 C2 or C4 coupe. Get one with a sunroof if you like the sun.
Less to go wrong with the coupe compared to convertible and targa, lighter and drive 'better'.
With the huge range of cars your looking at, if you want the sun I would be buying a Boxster S.
Mad March Taffy said:
If you have a good independent Porsche specialist near you, I would advise lashing out the £200 or so that they would charge for an inspection. If there is something that needs fixing and you don't spot it (or the seller is not disclosing it...) then this will be £200 well spent.
^This is a very sound suggestion and one I had meant to include myself.'Spending' £200 on a car you end up having to walk away from might save you blowing a whole lot more, either on a car that needs major work, or one that is not what it seems.
Like mmcd87 I'd be looking for a decent manual Coupe, partly becuse they will drive better & partly because they will probably be the 1st to rise in value. If you've been looking for a while you'll have noticed a lot of people talking these cars up recently & that seems to have firmed prices slightly.
Whatever you go for, they are fantastic cars & at current prices are a bargain to boot, just remember it will cost you about £2k pa exc fuel to run.
For the record, I only get approx 6k mls from my rear Mich PS2's (road driving only), not sure how people get 20k out of them
Whatever you go for, they are fantastic cars & at current prices are a bargain to boot, just remember it will cost you about £2k pa exc fuel to run.
For the record, I only get approx 6k mls from my rear Mich PS2's (road driving only), not sure how people get 20k out of them
Something like this I would be enquiring about (no idea if a good car or not, but advert reads well and MOT history looks good) http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2017...
This is a very good tool for a high level indicator of a cars history https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history
I posted in my 996 thread about how I fitted Kumhos new PS91 tyre on my 996. Worth a look if you find a car with worn / old / overly mismatched tyres.
This is a very good tool for a high level indicator of a cars history https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history
I posted in my 996 thread about how I fitted Kumhos new PS91 tyre on my 996. Worth a look if you find a car with worn / old / overly mismatched tyres.
Digga said:
LordHaveMurci said:
For the record, I only get approx 6k mls from my rear Mich PS2's (road driving only), not sure how people get 20k out of them
You do know the throttle isn't binary, right? You can modulate the application and maybe get a few more miles out of your rubber. 
LordHaveMurci said:
Digga said:
LordHaveMurci said:
For the record, I only get approx 6k mls from my rear Mich PS2's (road driving only), not sure how people get 20k out of them
You do know the throttle isn't binary, right? You can modulate the application and maybe get a few more miles out of your rubber. I'd decide what spec you want first and don't compromise or get impatient and settle for something just cos it's available at the time
Targa vs softtop vs coupe
Manual vs tip
Colour
Aerokit
C2 vs C4 - or C4S
I'm biased cos I have a 3.4 manual coupe with high miles but personally the first one (convertible) does nothing for me. A 3.6 with low miles is probably your prime candidate for engine issues. And its strong money. For 20+ I'd be getting a C4S
Targa vs softtop vs coupe
Manual vs tip
Colour
Aerokit
C2 vs C4 - or C4S
I'm biased cos I have a 3.4 manual coupe with high miles but personally the first one (convertible) does nothing for me. A 3.6 with low miles is probably your prime candidate for engine issues. And its strong money. For 20+ I'd be getting a C4S
Edited by skinny on Wednesday 12th April 20:57
My advice - as a relative Porsche newbie, having bought my 996 just under three years ago - is only buy one from a recognised Porsche indy specialist.
The 996 isn't a new car any more, there are lots of potential for things to go wrong, and can be expensive to put right. If you buy it from an Indy who will stand behind a 6 or 12 month warranty, the chances are they've sourced a good car which is why they are happy to sell it to you. Buy it from anywhere else and the dealer might be just giving it a valet before selling it to you. Plus they won't have the expertise to put it right.
It might mean spending another £2k to £5k than non-indy specialist sourced cars, but IMHO it's definitely worth it. Speaking as someone who just spent three and a half grand getting a very small water leak fixed.....
The 996 isn't a new car any more, there are lots of potential for things to go wrong, and can be expensive to put right. If you buy it from an Indy who will stand behind a 6 or 12 month warranty, the chances are they've sourced a good car which is why they are happy to sell it to you. Buy it from anywhere else and the dealer might be just giving it a valet before selling it to you. Plus they won't have the expertise to put it right.
It might mean spending another £2k to £5k than non-indy specialist sourced cars, but IMHO it's definitely worth it. Speaking as someone who just spent three and a half grand getting a very small water leak fixed.....
t cars, just like anyone can..Good advice all round, buy on condition, mileage is pretty irrelevant if well looked after and get proper checks made, i'd been looking for a 997/996 Cab for a few months found an 04/54 996 C4S Cab 76k miles FDSH at Silverstone OPC, had it about 6 weeks and the more I drive it the better it gets!
Digga said:
elcome, and good luck. As Rockster says, the chase can be nearly as much fun as the catch where cars are concerned.
You're in a good position, lurking here and asking questions and generally accumulating knowledge. A few pointers:
Coupes fetch more than cabs. Fact.You're in a good position, lurking here and asking questions and generally accumulating knowledge. A few pointers:
- Coupes will generally fetch less than cabs, especially from hereon into the summer, so unless you have your heart set on open top motoring, you'll get more car for your money with a coupe.
- Also have a look at the other forums. The 911uk.com one is busy and populated by people with a fair degree of knowledge. There are also classifieds on there too.
- Looking at cars, an extra pair of eyes is often handy. If you can take someone along who either knows his stuff or can be trusted to work of your brief, then checking for smoke/leaks/rattles on start-up and under load/coasting is simply not possible if you are in the car yourself.
Welcome to come view mine:
https://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/...
Latest pictures:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/min4tt42ndzzr91/AACkWXy...
https://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/...
Latest pictures:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/min4tt42ndzzr91/AACkWXy...
That is a very nice 996, I guess though at that money and that condition you wouldn't want to use it much or it would drop like a stone to £16k.
I would very much like to get a 996, and that one would tick all the boxes but with a 997.1 can a 996 really be justified.
I think the rear of a 996 is far nicer than a 997.1, but I would never sell the 997.1 so going to have to think if I can justify it. Under the skin I do think the 996 and 997.1 are pretty similar.
If I was choosing again think I would go for an early 996 with yellow lights, but considering how risky 997.1 are I think you have to stick with a good one.
I would very much like to get a 996, and that one would tick all the boxes but with a 997.1 can a 996 really be justified.
I think the rear of a 996 is far nicer than a 997.1, but I would never sell the 997.1 so going to have to think if I can justify it. Under the skin I do think the 996 and 997.1 are pretty similar.
If I was choosing again think I would go for an early 996 with yellow lights, but considering how risky 997.1 are I think you have to stick with a good one.
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