Pink engine coolant - all the same thing?
Discussion
I have a 2005 MK1 Focus 1.6 petrol. It has pink coolant in. I need to top it up so went to the local Ford dealer to see if they have some.
They told me the car is supposed to have orange coolant in and they don't sell pink. I asked if I could top the car up with some OAT pink we have in the garage for our Polo. The technician said that should be ok as the top up will be pink.
Is it ok to top up the current pink with the Halfords OAT pink we have in the garage? Thought I'd check on here before doing so.
I have some orange now and intend to do a flush sometime soon anyway as it hasn't been done for years. Just needs a topup for now.
Thanks all.
They told me the car is supposed to have orange coolant in and they don't sell pink. I asked if I could top the car up with some OAT pink we have in the garage for our Polo. The technician said that should be ok as the top up will be pink.
Is it ok to top up the current pink with the Halfords OAT pink we have in the garage? Thought I'd check on here before doing so.
I have some orange now and intend to do a flush sometime soon anyway as it hasn't been done for years. Just needs a topup for now.
Thanks all.
Thanks.
I will be flushing it at some point. Attempting to learn spannering so will see how that goes. Won't be done for at least a month though.
I'll probably pop some of the pink in for now. Water is ok, but obviously dilutes things.
I guess the colours designate the type of coolant?
What's IAT? Thanks.
I will be flushing it at some point. Attempting to learn spannering so will see how that goes. Won't be done for at least a month though.
I'll probably pop some of the pink in for now. Water is ok, but obviously dilutes things.
I guess the colours designate the type of coolant?
What's IAT? Thanks.
funkyrobot said:
What's IAT? Thanks.
OAT is organic additive technology - something like ethylhexanoic acid plus other anti-corrosion additives. IAT is inorganic additive technology - not entirely sure what they use.
You shouldn't mix (or even swap between) the two, but topping up with water in both cases is perfectly OK.
drjdog said:
OAT is organic additive technology - something like ethylhexanoic acid plus other anti-corrosion additives.
IAT is inorganic additive technology - not entirely sure what they use.
You shouldn't mix (or even swap between) the two, but topping up with water in both cases is perfectly OK.
IAT generally uses silicates.IAT is inorganic additive technology - not entirely sure what they use.
You shouldn't mix (or even swap between) the two, but topping up with water in both cases is perfectly OK.
you also have HOAT essentially a hybrid version but even these fall into phosphate free or non-phosphate free ones, to split these even further you can have P-HOAT (phosphated ones generally Jap and asian vehicles) and Si-OAT....
to confuse matter even further and as said in other posts the colour is not always a good guide as Mazda's "FL22" is green but is not an IAT silicate based one...
dme123 said:
Rather than just relying on colour I'd make sure it meets the standards you car wants, same as engine oil. For your Focus it'll be a Ford standard like WSS-M97B44-D but you can check in your handbook (or with google).
Thanks.I'll double check. The orange stuff I have is Ford stuff, so that will be ok. Just need to get a flush done before I add that.
Ninja59 said:
IAT generally uses silicates.
you also have HOAT essentially a hybrid version but even these fall into phosphate free or non-phosphate free ones, to split these even further you can have P-HOAT (phosphated ones generally Jap and asian vehicles) and Si-OAT....
to confuse matter even further and as said in other posts the colour is not always a good guide as Mazda's "FL22" is green but is not an IAT silicate based one...
I think FL22 is HOAT, whatever it is though it's damned good stuff and generally good for the life of the engine.you also have HOAT essentially a hybrid version but even these fall into phosphate free or non-phosphate free ones, to split these even further you can have P-HOAT (phosphated ones generally Jap and asian vehicles) and Si-OAT....
to confuse matter even further and as said in other posts the colour is not always a good guide as Mazda's "FL22" is green but is not an IAT silicate based one...
Evoluzione said:
It's unlikely to need flushing as it isn't the 1960s anymore.
Drain it, if it looks ok re-fill with new.
Thanks. Will only be a drain. Not sure why I keep calling it a flush.Drain it, if it looks ok re-fill with new.
Apparently, the 1.6 can be a pain with airlocks. Will see how it goes. Will do it again I need the car for holiday.
Think I'll just do a water top up for now.
Ford replaced the pink stuff hence why they dont have it anymore.
I use Euros pink coolant in my ST170 & Puma costs a shed load less than Fords stuff & had zero problems.
When you come to bleed it there’ll be a bugger of an airlock in the stat housing, heaters on full, cap off & let it run whilst regularly squeezing all coolant pipes, took me 45 mins to do my puma
I use Euros pink coolant in my ST170 & Puma costs a shed load less than Fords stuff & had zero problems.
When you come to bleed it there’ll be a bugger of an airlock in the stat housing, heaters on full, cap off & let it run whilst regularly squeezing all coolant pipes, took me 45 mins to do my puma
zsdom said:
Ford replaced the pink stuff hence why they dont have it anymore.
I use Euros pink coolant in my ST170 & Puma costs a shed load less than Fords stuff & had zero problems.
When you come to bleed it there’ll be a bugger of an airlock in the stat housing, heaters on full, cap off & let it run whilst regularly squeezing all coolant pipes, took me 45 mins to do my puma
Thanks.I use Euros pink coolant in my ST170 & Puma costs a shed load less than Fords stuff & had zero problems.
When you come to bleed it there’ll be a bugger of an airlock in the stat housing, heaters on full, cap off & let it run whilst regularly squeezing all coolant pipes, took me 45 mins to do my puma
I wonder if the pink you mention is the stuff already in the car.
Thanks for the bleeding tips. If the engine is just running, can you still run a risk of overheating if there is an airlock?
Also, how do you know when the airlock is gone? Should all the pipes be warm?
One final question. To drain, do I just take off the big fat pipe that seems to go to the bottom of the radiator?
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