Griffith 500 low beam replacement/pod removal & replacement
Discussion
My low beam headlamp lighting is very poor and want to replace them with projector lamps from Morimoto.
I don't want to go to 7" pods & larger lamps as there are now projector lamp assemblies that are new tech and significantly stronger lighting that I have already purchased and will easily fit into the smaller existing pods. They will also give me additional "low & high beam" capability within the "pod" fender lights using projector lamps, while also keeping the existing factory low mounted separate Cibie dedicated high beam lamps located in the grill opening edges.
Given the above, I've been told that the pods have to be removed and stripped down to get the existing Cibie lamps removed. So I've pulled the access flaps off the front inside wheel wells to get access to the wiring and rear brace; however, the removal of the pod looks like a real bear....I suspect it's never been off since new, and am concerned about getting it "un-stuck" (been told the pod is glued in with some sort of mastic that looks original / will be tough to get out cleanly without damage to the exterior nose paint & perspex cover). Once the pod is out, then need to remove the small perimeter screws that hold the perspex cover to the pod so I can actually get to the Cibie lamp. I've also been told to be VERY cautious when re-attaching the cover to the pod to avoid cracking the cover from overtightening the screws.
From looking through the perspex cover from the outside, the Cibie lamp "appears" to have a removable lens(?) If so, Does it have a separate reflector? The glass Cibie lens looks to be held on with two spring clips that I can just see the ends of at the edge of the Cibie lamps?
More Questions:
1. Has anyone done a "pictorial" or step-by-step of removing and replacing the pods? Could not find one on Pistonheads...
2. What is left behind the Cibie headlamp lens if the lens itself is removable? Is there a separate "reflector" behind the lens?
3. If I can finally get the Cibie unit (1 or 2 pieces ) out, what is behind the lamp that's used to correctly aim the lamp ( beam adjusters )?
4. What adhesive/silicone/etc is used to adhere the pod to the fender for re-installation?
5. What's the reassembly process to get the pod reattached securely and watertight with a clean exterior appearance fitted around the fender opening edges?
6. Is it just the rear brace that mechanically holds the pod ....other than adhesive around the perspex cover & fender?
The Griffith & Chimera forums are a wonderful assist for anything/everything Griffith related....I've lurked for years and logon daily, so any & all help is greatly appreciated to get my Griff back on the road in the next few months!
Thxs in advance for your help!
Doug
I don't want to go to 7" pods & larger lamps as there are now projector lamp assemblies that are new tech and significantly stronger lighting that I have already purchased and will easily fit into the smaller existing pods. They will also give me additional "low & high beam" capability within the "pod" fender lights using projector lamps, while also keeping the existing factory low mounted separate Cibie dedicated high beam lamps located in the grill opening edges.
Given the above, I've been told that the pods have to be removed and stripped down to get the existing Cibie lamps removed. So I've pulled the access flaps off the front inside wheel wells to get access to the wiring and rear brace; however, the removal of the pod looks like a real bear....I suspect it's never been off since new, and am concerned about getting it "un-stuck" (been told the pod is glued in with some sort of mastic that looks original / will be tough to get out cleanly without damage to the exterior nose paint & perspex cover). Once the pod is out, then need to remove the small perimeter screws that hold the perspex cover to the pod so I can actually get to the Cibie lamp. I've also been told to be VERY cautious when re-attaching the cover to the pod to avoid cracking the cover from overtightening the screws.
From looking through the perspex cover from the outside, the Cibie lamp "appears" to have a removable lens(?) If so, Does it have a separate reflector? The glass Cibie lens looks to be held on with two spring clips that I can just see the ends of at the edge of the Cibie lamps?
More Questions:
1. Has anyone done a "pictorial" or step-by-step of removing and replacing the pods? Could not find one on Pistonheads...
2. What is left behind the Cibie headlamp lens if the lens itself is removable? Is there a separate "reflector" behind the lens?
3. If I can finally get the Cibie unit (1 or 2 pieces ) out, what is behind the lamp that's used to correctly aim the lamp ( beam adjusters )?
4. What adhesive/silicone/etc is used to adhere the pod to the fender for re-installation?
5. What's the reassembly process to get the pod reattached securely and watertight with a clean exterior appearance fitted around the fender opening edges?
6. Is it just the rear brace that mechanically holds the pod ....other than adhesive around the perspex cover & fender?
The Griffith & Chimera forums are a wonderful assist for anything/everything Griffith related....I've lurked for years and logon daily, so any & all help is greatly appreciated to get my Griff back on the road in the next few months!
Thxs in advance for your help!
Doug
Removing the pods and refitting them is a pain.
Yes, that rear strut is the only mechanical item holding them in place.
The glue used is sikoflex.
I haven’t opened up one of the original cibie light units so cannot help with the separate lens question.
To get the light unit out, you will have to remove the pod and separate the lens, as you described.
Yes, that rear strut is the only mechanical item holding them in place.
The glue used is sikoflex.
I haven’t opened up one of the original cibie light units so cannot help with the separate lens question.
To get the light unit out, you will have to remove the pod and separate the lens, as you described.
When removing the pods use a sharp blade to cut through the old Sikaflex whilst gently easing the loosened pod (ie bracing bracket released) side to side. When refitting the pods back into the body be prepared for a tricky job that’s best done with two people. Once the Sikaflexed pod is offered up to the body it mustn’t move else the joint will be a mess. That’s why two people is best - one to hold and one to fiddle with reattaching the securing bracket. Also you MUST carefully line the paintwork surrounding the aperture with masking tape but leaving a narrow strip around the aperture for the Sikaflex to bond.
Just use Google search for...........pistonheads griffith light pod removal.
As E says this is one of many threads .....
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
As E says this is one of many threads .....
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Super! I'm starting to use Google search for pistonheads as it Does produce better search results! Great tip!
One of the threads also had good pics showing the headlamp assembly partially apart ( and showing part of the adjuster setup, too...) but still mounted in the pod, so that helped answer the question about "is the lamp one piece or two?" ( looks like a separate lens and a separate backing/reflector.)
I'll also noticed that the lamp assembly seemed to "move" when just the bulb was replaced ( as someone remarked on their car ), so I suspect that the spring arrangement must have shifted somewhat on my Griff to allow movement when just replacing the bulb ( that should not happen..), so I'll look at that when I pull the pod and disassemble the perspex cover to get at the actual lamp to look at how it's held in place with the springs.
Where I'm going to projector lamps, I'll have to get the lamp assembly out and then devise some sort of aiming setup to allow for adjustment of the beam.
Thank you also for the tips on cutting the body-to-lamp sealant. The pics showing the amount of sealant were very helpful ...and lots of tape, too!!
Also will mark now where the beams fall on the garage door and take measurements so I can replicate those locations when the projectors are finally installed and pods mounted.....at least I'd be somewhere near correctly aimed!
I'll try the "clean the lens with solution and a long wire" approach 1st while the pod is still in place just to see if it helps to remove some of the haze/fogginess in the lamp assuming it's on the inside of the lens.
Given the time required to do the "pull & disassemble & reinstall the pod", and then figure out a way to make "aiming" adjustment for the projectors, I may save this relatively bigger job until this Fall as I'd like to use the Griff when the weather improves. Don't want to run into alot of down time with both pods out and disassembled (no drive time...) while I determine how to make adjustable aiming mounts for the projectors. I already have the projectors, so I may try to fabricate the adjustment mounts to the rear of the pods for the projectors BEFORE I pull the pods this coming Fall, that way it might make the pod pull & replacement a quicker process with little down time when the pods are out. Down Time required won't matter when the car goes into hibernation in late Fall....
I'll try to include pics and a step-by-step write up for the "next" person........
Thank you again for the advice!
Doug
One of the threads also had good pics showing the headlamp assembly partially apart ( and showing part of the adjuster setup, too...) but still mounted in the pod, so that helped answer the question about "is the lamp one piece or two?" ( looks like a separate lens and a separate backing/reflector.)
I'll also noticed that the lamp assembly seemed to "move" when just the bulb was replaced ( as someone remarked on their car ), so I suspect that the spring arrangement must have shifted somewhat on my Griff to allow movement when just replacing the bulb ( that should not happen..), so I'll look at that when I pull the pod and disassemble the perspex cover to get at the actual lamp to look at how it's held in place with the springs.
Where I'm going to projector lamps, I'll have to get the lamp assembly out and then devise some sort of aiming setup to allow for adjustment of the beam.
Thank you also for the tips on cutting the body-to-lamp sealant. The pics showing the amount of sealant were very helpful ...and lots of tape, too!!
Also will mark now where the beams fall on the garage door and take measurements so I can replicate those locations when the projectors are finally installed and pods mounted.....at least I'd be somewhere near correctly aimed!
I'll try the "clean the lens with solution and a long wire" approach 1st while the pod is still in place just to see if it helps to remove some of the haze/fogginess in the lamp assuming it's on the inside of the lens.
Given the time required to do the "pull & disassemble & reinstall the pod", and then figure out a way to make "aiming" adjustment for the projectors, I may save this relatively bigger job until this Fall as I'd like to use the Griff when the weather improves. Don't want to run into alot of down time with both pods out and disassembled (no drive time...) while I determine how to make adjustable aiming mounts for the projectors. I already have the projectors, so I may try to fabricate the adjustment mounts to the rear of the pods for the projectors BEFORE I pull the pods this coming Fall, that way it might make the pod pull & replacement a quicker process with little down time when the pods are out. Down Time required won't matter when the car goes into hibernation in late Fall....
I'll try to include pics and a step-by-step write up for the "next" person........
Thank you again for the advice!
Doug
Thxs John....for one more good tip. If I was keeping the existing headlamp(s) I'd surely glue the spring clips as both headlamps appear to have the springs close to coming off the edge of the lens so the lamp is not stable. Hopefully not a problem when I figure out how to mount the projector lamps. They require me making some sort of adjustable mount at the back of the pod so I can adjust the beam once the projectors are mounted. But no little spring clips, that's for sure!! The beam depth and pattern on projector lamps are absolutely incredible compared to the original lam output & pattern... like driving a new car!!
Hi
Just done the mod to 7" and it looks a load better....agree with the previous comments especially the final bead after the pod is installed
My question is what bulb would you use as far as heat generated in an enclosed pod?
Just a bit concerned and dont want to melt the perspex cover!
Ive got a pair of halogens at present
Just done the mod to 7" and it looks a load better....agree with the previous comments especially the final bead after the pod is installed
My question is what bulb would you use as far as heat generated in an enclosed pod?
Just a bit concerned and dont want to melt the perspex cover!
Ive got a pair of halogens at present
The pictures below may be of help to you.....
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=12...
I read on here some time ago that inflating a football bladder ( a round one....not your sort! ) beneath the pod will help give support whilst the Sikaflex cures.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=12...
I read on here some time ago that inflating a football bladder ( a round one....not your sort! ) beneath the pod will help give support whilst the Sikaflex cures.
Thxs Banannaman99....the projector lamps can be ordered with a variety of bulbs, but mine are regular F1 bulbs. The difference in vastly improved lighting beam is that the bulb light goes directly thru a glass lens "beam collector" -- versus bouncing off a reflector behind the bulb like a regular headlamp --.
The shaped glass lens is what makes the light beam much brighter and far more focused. You also get a dual beam capability where the Griff is a single beam.... with a center focused high beam pattern as well as a very flat cutoff low beam with side "kickup" . For better reference & pics, google "projector headlamp & morimoto". Lots of YouTube videos from vendors, too like Retrosource.
Some use a LED, but I stayed with the regular bulb as the regular 35w or even 50w bulb works fine even in the enclosed pod without overheating.
I really want the lights to look the same as a new car as they all now use projector lamps to get that wonderful bright & flat light pattern. If you stand outside the fender and look thru the actual lamp inside the pod, they look different and small (3"), but that doesn't matter to me....I want the better lighting.
Universal kits run about $350 USD and you have to be able to create some sort of mount for adjusting the beam after installation.
The shaped glass lens is what makes the light beam much brighter and far more focused. You also get a dual beam capability where the Griff is a single beam.... with a center focused high beam pattern as well as a very flat cutoff low beam with side "kickup" . For better reference & pics, google "projector headlamp & morimoto". Lots of YouTube videos from vendors, too like Retrosource.
Some use a LED, but I stayed with the regular bulb as the regular 35w or even 50w bulb works fine even in the enclosed pod without overheating.
I really want the lights to look the same as a new car as they all now use projector lamps to get that wonderful bright & flat light pattern. If you stand outside the fender and look thru the actual lamp inside the pod, they look different and small (3"), but that doesn't matter to me....I want the better lighting.
Universal kits run about $350 USD and you have to be able to create some sort of mount for adjusting the beam after installation.
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