Better brake wind back tool
Discussion
A few years ago I replaced the rear pads on a friend’s car. I bought this Sealey wind-back tool for the purpose;
The tool only just fit into the calliper.
Once in place it was a real struggle to get it to do it’s thing. The callipers on this car (Ibiza 6L) were very very stiff and difficult to wind back. It took all of my strength, and by the time it was done my hands hurt and the T-bar on the wind-back tool was bent. I did remove the reservoir cap prior to starting so I don’t think I was fighting against hydraulic pressure?
The car now needs new pads again. The pads haven’t lasted long or worn especially evenly (the inner piston side wearing at a faster rate than the outer sliding side) but in my opinion it’s not bad enough to condemn the callipers. Yes I did properly clean up and lubricate the sliding pins.
However I don’t want to struggle so much this time so I am asking for recommendations for a better wind-back tool or tips to make winding back the pistons easier- could a rubber safe lubricant be used? Suggestions?
The tool only just fit into the calliper.
Once in place it was a real struggle to get it to do it’s thing. The callipers on this car (Ibiza 6L) were very very stiff and difficult to wind back. It took all of my strength, and by the time it was done my hands hurt and the T-bar on the wind-back tool was bent. I did remove the reservoir cap prior to starting so I don’t think I was fighting against hydraulic pressure?
The car now needs new pads again. The pads haven’t lasted long or worn especially evenly (the inner piston side wearing at a faster rate than the outer sliding side) but in my opinion it’s not bad enough to condemn the callipers. Yes I did properly clean up and lubricate the sliding pins.
However I don’t want to struggle so much this time so I am asking for recommendations for a better wind-back tool or tips to make winding back the pistons easier- could a rubber safe lubricant be used? Suggestions?
Got a similar tool for the rears on my Accord, and similar issues.
Took me years to figure out you could put a 19mm socket on the end and use a ratchet instead of the useless t-bar.
Only workaround I've got for it not fitting in the calliper easily, is try not to let the pads get that low.
Took me years to figure out you could put a 19mm socket on the end and use a ratchet instead of the useless t-bar.
Only workaround I've got for it not fitting in the calliper easily, is try not to let the pads get that low.
Edited by mw88 on Monday 26th July 11:40
Check the rubber dust boot around the piston, any nicks or tears in it normally means water will have got in and corroded the finish of the piston, making it seize slightly and hard to wind back. Calipers will probably be less than £50 each for that car so consider replacing the whole unit for an easy life.
I use a Sykes Pickavant tool for the Audi 38mm pistons - same as the Seat.
I've tried one like you have and they're very poor - the 2 pins always slip when you try and exert force and the black plate is so thin it just bends
The advantage of the Sykes tool is that it can be turned using a ratchet with extension bars 3/8" drive
I've tried one like you have and they're very poor - the 2 pins always slip when you try and exert force and the black plate is so thin it just bends
The advantage of the Sykes tool is that it can be turned using a ratchet with extension bars 3/8" drive
I've always found rear pistons that aren't sticking screw back in with very little axial force, just using one of those cube tools that gives multiple options for pin patterns and is driven by a ratchet.
Hell, I've found a pair of water pump pliers works just fine as long as you're only grabbing the very end of the piston so not damaging the sealing surface.
Hell, I've found a pair of water pump pliers works just fine as long as you're only grabbing the very end of the piston so not damaging the sealing surface.
I have one of those cheap wind-back tools as per the OP, all I did was grind off one set of lugs to improve clearance and it's worked bob-on ever since.
The only awkward ones are knackered calipers mind, and I tend to strip the calipers and put fresh pistons in all mine after purchase
The only awkward ones are knackered calipers mind, and I tend to strip the calipers and put fresh pistons in all mine after purchase
ive been using a cheap ebay set (both LH + RH) for maybe the last 5 or 6 years and never had an issue with them and i use them several times a week.
Cut the bendy T bars off and get a 22mm nut off a steering arm welded on and you'll be fine,
Sometimes a wee lift of the boot and a skoosh of appropriate grease before winding back helps, (you also need to be sure which way they turn) but ultimately if you have problems with them moving back its nearing new caliper time.
Cut the bendy T bars off and get a 22mm nut off a steering arm welded on and you'll be fine,
Sometimes a wee lift of the boot and a skoosh of appropriate grease before winding back helps, (you also need to be sure which way they turn) but ultimately if you have problems with them moving back its nearing new caliper time.
I use a screw driver, If its the front ,I remount the calliper without the pads, and then leant screwdriver against the old discs and pushed against the piston, works fine,
for the rears, if they have to be wound back then I do a similar trick only I slide the screw driver into the recess in the piston and turn it like you turn a tap on, and keep going until I have enough clearance.
hth
for the rears, if they have to be wound back then I do a similar trick only I slide the screw driver into the recess in the piston and turn it like you turn a tap on, and keep going until I have enough clearance.
hth
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