Discussion
Common problem the mode button becomes unreliable. Fixes include dismantling and cleaning button or soldering in a new generic button .
The simpler route is using a razor blade cut the label covering the button, squirt in some contact cleaner whilst turning and clicking multiple times. Having the label out of the way means a more positive click too.
Hey presto a usable ctek. I wonder how many get chucked?
The simpler route is using a razor blade cut the label covering the button, squirt in some contact cleaner whilst turning and clicking multiple times. Having the label out of the way means a more positive click too.
Hey presto a usable ctek. I wonder how many get chucked?
Mines been dicky for years, think it's about 12 year old now if not more.
I tend to slide my nail across the button to make it work, with varying degrees of success.
It generally stays permanently plugged it and just swap the other end between cars, so it's not that big of an issue for me until I turn the power off to it.
I tend to slide my nail across the button to make it work, with varying degrees of success.
It generally stays permanently plugged it and just swap the other end between cars, so it's not that big of an issue for me until I turn the power off to it.
PositronicRay said:
Common problem the mode button becomes unreliable. Fixes include dismantling and cleaning button or soldering in a new generic button .
The simpler route is using a razor blade cut the label covering the button, squirt in some contact cleaner whilst turning and clicking multiple times. Having the label out of the way means a more positive click too.
Hey presto a usable ctek. I wonder how many get chucked?
I went to the trouble of getting my C-Tek working again. It repaid my effort by flattening the battery on my Bentley, which in turn caused other electrical issues. The bill was around £5k.The simpler route is using a razor blade cut the label covering the button, squirt in some contact cleaner whilst turning and clicking multiple times. Having the label out of the way means a more positive click too.
Hey presto a usable ctek. I wonder how many get chucked?
trevalvole said:
That's interesting - I was thinking of getting one. Does this apply to all CTEKs, or just certain models/years?
Mines an XS3600, I think the buttons are similar across the models. I've used this model in car showrooms, they do a decent job. I recently sold an old merc SL, I'd had the car for 9yrs, kept outside and when not in use plugged in during the worst winter days. Never had to change the battery certainty not new when I took it over, so 10 plus trouble free years.
I fit a fused link on the battery end, in case of cable mishaps.
Louis Balfour said:
PositronicRay said:
Common problem the mode button becomes unreliable. Fixes include dismantling and cleaning button or soldering in a new generic button .
The simpler route is using a razor blade cut the label covering the button, squirt in some contact cleaner whilst turning and clicking multiple times. Having the label out of the way means a more positive click too.
Hey presto a usable ctek. I wonder how many get chucked?
I went to the trouble of getting my C-Tek working again. It repaid my effort by flattening the battery on my Bentley, which in turn caused other electrical issues. The bill was around £5k.The simpler route is using a razor blade cut the label covering the button, squirt in some contact cleaner whilst turning and clicking multiple times. Having the label out of the way means a more positive click too.
Hey presto a usable ctek. I wonder how many get chucked?
PositronicRay said:
Louis Balfour said:
PositronicRay said:
Common problem the mode button becomes unreliable. Fixes include dismantling and cleaning button or soldering in a new generic button .
The simpler route is using a razor blade cut the label covering the button, squirt in some contact cleaner whilst turning and clicking multiple times. Having the label out of the way means a more positive click too.
Hey presto a usable ctek. I wonder how many get chucked?
I went to the trouble of getting my C-Tek working again. It repaid my effort by flattening the battery on my Bentley, which in turn caused other electrical issues. The bill was around £5k.The simpler route is using a razor blade cut the label covering the button, squirt in some contact cleaner whilst turning and clicking multiple times. Having the label out of the way means a more positive click too.
Hey presto a usable ctek. I wonder how many get chucked?
It appeared that the C-Tek flattened the auxiliary battery, which caused a fault with the boot operation control and motor.
I had a ctek XS3600 for well over a decade. The microswitch became inoperable in just under three years of use. Stripped out, dismantled and cleaned the microswitch and it's worked perfectly ever since. I suspect they had a faulty batch of microswitches at some point during manufacture.
I also have an MXS 7.0 that has been fault free.
I also have an MXS 7.0 that has been fault free.
Had mine for the last 12 years. The mode button is the only negative. It was about 5 years before mode selection issues started. The microswitch itself is ok but the plastic button seems the problem. It takes a bit of fiddling to actuate the microswitch. If I remove the button I can change mode perfectly with a suitable tool like a cocktail stick. I think the button has worn and fails to give consistent triggering of the micro switch. I did look to find a replacement button but no joy. I still use the Ctek daily and can put up with the mode button. If I had a 3D printer I’d make a new button! CTek don’t seem to offer spares, just a repair service with a cost near buying a new one!
Smint said:
Had one, it packed up unknown to me causing a nearly new Varta battery to be scrapped, never again.
Very happy with the Genius 10.
This. Very happy with the Genius 10.
Had a nearly new Bosch battery on my 993 RS twenty years ago.
Bought a CTEK because everyone said how brilliant they were.
It was hopeless and killed the battery on the RS shortly after.
Left the interior light on in my BMW daily driver overnight, connected the CTEK and it failed to charge it.
Binned the CTEK, bought a cheap 5h1t (£20) basic Halfords Chinesium charger, still use it to this day, always works, never had a problem with it, not killed a battery with it either...
Funnily enough the switch on my ctek finally started playing up this weekend when i went to use it.
Still i've done pretty well until this point - bought it in '07 when i had an Exige and up until now it had still been switching fine (having spent the last few years expecting it to have gone by now based on previous posts online). 16 years wasn't a bad run - and it looks like there's a few online / youtube guides / suggestions on how to do a self repair / fix to keep it going a bit longer.
Still i've done pretty well until this point - bought it in '07 when i had an Exige and up until now it had still been switching fine (having spent the last few years expecting it to have gone by now based on previous posts online). 16 years wasn't a bad run - and it looks like there's a few online / youtube guides / suggestions on how to do a self repair / fix to keep it going a bit longer.
Heaveho said:
I use Optimate 4s. 3 of them. Never a problem so far. The only time I had an issue was using a Lidl Ctek lookalike, which let one battery go flat and couldn't resuscitate it. More out of hope than expectation, I put an Optimate on it and it took a charge. Lesson learned.
Another shout for Optimate. I have five altogether, four in constant use with the oldest being over 20 years old. Never a problem and easy to use - just plug in and let it do its thing.Gassing Station | Home Mechanics | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff