Insulating external water pipes
Discussion
Looking for any suggestions better than mine please to insulate some external water pipes.
I have a run of copper water pipes out in my carport, running from the boiler in my detached garage into my carport (all done by previous owner). They supply two external taps and also go into the house for our heating. The car port is partially open on one side but although the pipes are sheltered from rain they are exposed to the cold winter temperatures. There is a 10cm gap between my house and the garage which the pipes have to bridge, and i'm mindful of any cold winter winds blowing through this gap. I've wrapped insulation foil bubble wrap around them at that point.
Other than the slightly pathetic pipe lagging that's on the pipes already, I was thinking of getting a 100mm thick sheet of Kingspan and fixing it over the pipes to the wall to cover them. As for the taps, I'll have to fashion something that's easily removable as they are in use most days, but want to cover them when it's freezing temps.
The pipework..
The gap between the garage and the house..
I have a run of copper water pipes out in my carport, running from the boiler in my detached garage into my carport (all done by previous owner). They supply two external taps and also go into the house for our heating. The car port is partially open on one side but although the pipes are sheltered from rain they are exposed to the cold winter temperatures. There is a 10cm gap between my house and the garage which the pipes have to bridge, and i'm mindful of any cold winter winds blowing through this gap. I've wrapped insulation foil bubble wrap around them at that point.
Other than the slightly pathetic pipe lagging that's on the pipes already, I was thinking of getting a 100mm thick sheet of Kingspan and fixing it over the pipes to the wall to cover them. As for the taps, I'll have to fashion something that's easily removable as they are in use most days, but want to cover them when it's freezing temps.
The pipework..
The gap between the garage and the house..
Buy a cheap underfloor electric heating kit - smallest area you can get - strip the heating cable out of it and hook it up to a frost stat set to 2-5 degrees. Tie wrap the cable to your pipes and slip foam lagging over the lot - when it’s cold it’ll stop freezing.
I’ve done this over our garage, it’s been running a good few winters with no bursts yet.
I’ve done this over our garage, it’s been running a good few winters with no bursts yet.
andy43 said:
Buy a cheap underfloor electric heating kit - smallest area you can get - strip the heating cable out of it and hook it up to a frost stat set to 2-5 degrees. Tie wrap the cable to your pipes and slip foam lagging over the lot - when it’s cold it’ll stop freezing.
I’ve done this over our garage, it’s been running a good few winters with no bursts yet.
What you described is called trace heating. There are dedicated kits out there for this sort of thing. I’ve done this over our garage, it’s been running a good few winters with no bursts yet.
The bodge is strong with this one. Never mind the plumbing, look at the brickwork.
But leaving that aside, I'd be tempted to box in the whole lot with loads of insulation. It'll look a hundred times better and eliminate any possible problems. In that location the boxing can be left easy to unscrew for access.
But leaving that aside, I'd be tempted to box in the whole lot with loads of insulation. It'll look a hundred times better and eliminate any possible problems. In that location the boxing can be left easy to unscrew for access.
The trace heating idea sounds good, wasn't aware of that. Found this place selling them.. https://www.traceheatinguk.co.uk/2m-pre-made-12w-l...
Bond it directly to the bricks, but if ever I need to remove the Kingspan the adhesive will leave a mess on the bricks.
Screw some plywood to the bricks, and bond the Kingspan to the ply. Would make it easy and clean to remove and replace.
Could even ply over the Kingspan to make it look neater.
Panamax said:
The bodge is strong with this one. Never mind the plumbing, look at the brickwork..
The difference in brickwork on the wall to the right is actually due to the 1930's built garage having its main door partially bricked up some time before I moved in.Panamax said:
But leaving that aside, I'd be tempted to box in the whole lot with loads of insulation. It'll look a hundred times better and eliminate any possible problems. In that location the boxing can be left easy to unscrew for access.
I've sourced some Kingspan which I can use to do this, Just need to think about how I fix it to the brickwork. I can either..Bond it directly to the bricks, but if ever I need to remove the Kingspan the adhesive will leave a mess on the bricks.
Screw some plywood to the bricks, and bond the Kingspan to the ply. Would make it easy and clean to remove and replace.
Could even ply over the Kingspan to make it look neater.
Edited by The Gauge on Friday 17th November 17:34
You can get rockwool insulation, premade with foil cover, which I would consider for the heating and hot water pipe maybe. Its very UV-proof, but will take on moisture with time, so only really suitable for pipes which will warm and dry it out, rather than protecting cold pipes from frost.
You can also get black closed cell neoprene insulation, often used for air con systems. Will degrade in light with time, but is 100% close cell so good in rain.
Or as said, box it in and stuff insulation inside, and or a combination of the above.
Trace heating also an option, as said, you can by special wire/kits for it.
You can also get black closed cell neoprene insulation, often used for air con systems. Will degrade in light with time, but is 100% close cell so good in rain.
Or as said, box it in and stuff insulation inside, and or a combination of the above.
Trace heating also an option, as said, you can by special wire/kits for it.
You can get rockwool insulation, premade with foil cover, which I would consider for the heating and hot water pipe maybe. Its very UV-proof, but will take on moisture with time, so only really suitable for pipes which will warm and dry it out, rather than protecting cold pipes from frost.
You can also get black closed cell neoprene insulation, often used for air con systems. Will degrade in light with time, but is 100% close cell so good in rain.
Or as said, box it in and stuff insulation inside, and or a combination of the above.
Trace heating also an option, as said, you can by special wire/kits for it.
You can also get black closed cell neoprene insulation, often used for air con systems. Will degrade in light with time, but is 100% close cell so good in rain.
Or as said, box it in and stuff insulation inside, and or a combination of the above.
Trace heating also an option, as said, you can by special wire/kits for it.
I'd insulate as you planned with a timber framework to hold it all in place, then get some cheapo brick effect cladding to keep the elements off and make it look smarter.
I chucked a bit on a cat house I made and was quite impressed with the results for very little effort and cost:
That front left edge on the roofing felt always annoyed me though... Nothing in the right place underneath to attach to. Live and learn.
I chucked a bit on a cat house I made and was quite impressed with the results for very little effort and cost:
That front left edge on the roofing felt always annoyed me though... Nothing in the right place underneath to attach to. Live and learn.
I've ordered a 6meter long kit from here..
https://www.traceheatinguk.co.uk/premade-trace-hea...
I'll be removing the pipe lagging, cable tying the wire to the underneath of the pipes, refitting the lagging and then boxing in some Kingspan using plywood to cover the lot.
https://www.traceheatinguk.co.uk/premade-trace-hea...
I'll be removing the pipe lagging, cable tying the wire to the underneath of the pipes, refitting the lagging and then boxing in some Kingspan using plywood to cover the lot.
For the insulation have a look at Armaflex closed cell, I’ve used it lots over the years, it’s very flexible and does not start crumbling after a few years like the normal grey stuff when it gets wet.
https://www.pipelagging.com/catalog/product/view/i...
https://www.pipelagging.com/catalog/product/view/i...
Phase one of Operation Don't Let My Pies Freeze is now complete. Phase two is to insulate further.
I fitted the heat trace kit today, easy enough to do though the heated part of the cable isn't very flexible so can't make tight turns or bends.
I have some Kingspan to box the pipes in with along with some plywood, but for now i've replaced the insulation lagging....
I'll probably leave the thermostat exposed, but is there any way of testing that the kit actually works, perhaps by feeling a little heat in the cable when touching?
I fitted the heat trace kit today, easy enough to do though the heated part of the cable isn't very flexible so can't make tight turns or bends.
I have some Kingspan to box the pipes in with along with some plywood, but for now i've replaced the insulation lagging....
I'll probably leave the thermostat exposed, but is there any way of testing that the kit actually works, perhaps by feeling a little heat in the cable when touching?
Just read the instructions (as there's no point reading them before installing is there!!).
They suggest the thermostat is placed inside any insulation, which makes sense as it only needs to turn on if the temp under the insulation gets too cold, otherwise it will be turning on when not needed. The thermostat activates at 3 degs, and turns off at 8 degs. I'll leave it exposed for now to see if I can feel it produce any heat when below 3 degs.
They suggest the thermostat is placed inside any insulation, which makes sense as it only needs to turn on if the temp under the insulation gets too cold, otherwise it will be turning on when not needed. The thermostat activates at 3 degs, and turns off at 8 degs. I'll leave it exposed for now to see if I can feel it produce any heat when below 3 degs.
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