Engineered hardwood floor glue

[s p a c e m a n]

Yep, I've googled for 5 minutes lost the will to live and decided to ask an adult instead.

I've got a chipboard ground floor on joists that lets in more of a breeze than the windows on vent, I've got an engineered wood herringbone floor to put on it.

I've done quite a few laminate floors by throwing down that green fibre board stuff, taping the joins and then just laying the floor on top.

Apparently herringbone really needs to be glued down, I'm assuming that I need to glue the fibre board to the subfloor and then glue the herringbone to the fibre board.

I just want to check that glue doesn't melt fibre board and if it does what glue do I use? I have a vision of laying half the room and then realising that the fibre board has turned to marshmallow

Some sites are saying to use a quick release tack glue to stick the fibre board to the sub floor in case you ever want to pull it all up again and then another glue to stick the herringbone to the fibre board.

[the_stoat]

I have used Bostik Laybond, just make sure you open the windows and use the right sized notched trowel.

To combat draughts I layed down some heavyweight underlay, TimberTech 5 or 6mm, then OSB boards floating on the underlay and glued the herring bone directly to the OSB. I am aware that this is technically not the correct way to do it, but makes the floor silent to walk on and the house much warmer. As this is a car forum, carb cleaner is amazing at cleaning tools after using the glue.

Edited by the_stoat on Tuesday 19th March 12:35

Edited by the_stoat on Tuesday 19th March 12:38

[Cow Corner]

If you’re back to chipboard, is it worth taking that up and insulating the floor while you have easy access (probably for the last time in many years…)?

[s p a c e m a n]

Thanks stoat, that's not a bad idea. I've got a multi pack of carb cleaner in the garage too

I'm not pulling the chipboard up, it's nailed down not screwed so the chances of it coming up completely intact are slim.

[skwdenyer]

s p a c e m a n said:

Thanks stoat, that's not a bad idea. I've got a multi pack of carb cleaner in the garage too

I'm not pulling the chipboard up, it's nailed down not screwed so the chances of it coming up completely intact are slim.

If there’s a large enough void beneath, you can just cut a hatch and then get underneath

[OutInTheShed]

s p a c e m a n said:

Thanks stoat, that's not a bad idea. I've got a multi pack of carb cleaner in the garage too

I'm not pulling the chipboard up, it's nailed down not screwed so the chances of it coming up completely intact are slim.

I lifted a chip floor by drilling over every nail with a plug cutter. Not elegant, but job done, chipboard re-used.

The nails were ring nails, not willing to negotiate with my nail puller, crowbar or whatever.
Another floor, I drilled the head off every nail before liftingthe chipboard. Then pulled the nails and put the boards back down with screws

[bobski1]

OutInTheShed said:

I lifted a chip floor by drilling over every nail with a plug cutter. Not elegant, but job done, chipboard re-used.

The nails were ring nails, not willing to negotiate with my nail puller, crowbar or whatever.
Another floor, I drilled the head off every nail before liftingthe chipboard. Then pulled the nails and put the boards back down with screws

Plug cutter is a brilliant idea! I'd second insulating if you can I regret not lifting up the floorboards and insulating, had very limited time and an angry Mrs B about to pop but can feel the floor is much colder.

For the adhesive you just need to check if the glue you want is solvent free or not and if the board is affected. I wanted to let some foam in the bathroom & bought gripfill. It was not compatible luckily I tested offline before starting