Sizzling gearstick
Discussion
Apart from my possible throttle pot troubles, does anybody have a solution to the sizzling gearstick? Mine begins about 3,000 rpm. Gets frenzied at 3,500 and eases a bit over 4,000 or so. Now I find it quite comfortable cruising with one hand on the stick to dampen the sizzle but not when I really need two hands on the wheel. I'm aware this is an ancient moan but I cannot remember seeing a thread with a solution. Has anyone found one please?
Apart from my possible throttle pot troubles, does anybody have a solution to the sizzling gearstick? Mine begins about 3,000 rpm. Gets frenzied at 3,500 and eases a bit over 4,000 or so. Now I find it quite comfortable cruising with one hand on the stick to dampen the sizzle but not when I really need two hands on the wheel. I'm aware this is an ancient moan but I cannot remember seeing a thread with a solution. Has anyone found one please?
This sounds like it could be connected to the way in which the visible part of the stick connects to the lower part. There is a (TVR produced) plate which creates a "dogleg" so that the stick is brought forward into a more useable position than it otherwise would be. The sizzle or rattle is usually a symptom that this assembly is coming apart and needs attention. It's caused by driving along holding the gear knob.
>> Edited by Roy C on Monday 13th January 15:42
Roy C said:
Apart from my possible throttle pot troubles, does anybody have a solution to the sizzling gearstick? Mine begins about 3,000 rpm. Gets frenzied at 3,500 and eases a bit over 4,000 or so. Now I find it quite comfortable cruising with one hand on the stick to dampen the sizzle but not when I really need two hands on the wheel. I'm aware this is an ancient moan but I cannot remember seeing a thread with a solution. Has anyone found one please?
This sounds like it could be connected to the way in which the visible part of the stick connects to the lower part. There is a (TVR produced) plate which creates a "dogleg" so that the stick is brought forward into a more useable position than it otherwise would be. The sizzle or rattle is usually a symptom that this assembly is coming apart and needs attention. It's caused by driving along holding the gear knob.
>> Edited by Roy C on Monday 13th January 15:42
My S2 did this, gearstick was OK but just hit resonance at those revs. The insert was tight btw, the whole gearlever was buzzing. Might have tried changing the gearknob for a heavier/lighter/leather etc but in the end decided V8 was a more cost effective cure.
. I fixed it with some thread lock. No... even the Fords that used the box had the same problem. Resting one hand on the gear stick is not adviseable as it knackers the box.
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
Steve
www.tvrbooks.co.uk
Thanks for your replies so far. I have a rather nice alloy sleeve and gearknob on the stick which came with the car. I've packed the sleeve because it is too big and tightened the grub screws holding both it and the knob, bit it makes no difference.
Roy C how do I get access to the linkage? Is it done from underneath or inside the car please?
Roy C how do I get access to the linkage? Is it done from underneath or inside the car please?
roger brown said:Roy C how do I get access to the linkage? Is it done from underneath or inside the car please?
From the top, by removing the central tunnel cover(although I've never removed it myself).
Details in Steve's book?
There's a see-thru drawing of an S in the sample chapter (pdf) of the S book at www.tvrbooks.co.uk/
showing the gear stick and 'box between the top tubes.
I fitted an aftermarket gearknob that had the same sort of attachment as yours with the 3 grub screws at the base, and also used to resonate, no matter how much I tightened the screws.
I sounds like you've explored this avenue already, but my problem was caused by the top of the gearstick vibrating inside the metal casing of the inside of the gearknob. I solved the problem by wrapping some insulating tape around and over the top of the gearstick itself, until the gearknob was a really tight fit.
That was quite a few months back, and it's been fine since. The vibration also used to make the grub screws come loose on a regular basis (even with a dab of Loctite), and they've also been good as gold since.
I sounds like you've explored this avenue already, but my problem was caused by the top of the gearstick vibrating inside the metal casing of the inside of the gearknob. I solved the problem by wrapping some insulating tape around and over the top of the gearstick itself, until the gearknob was a really tight fit.
That was quite a few months back, and it's been fine since. The vibration also used to make the grub screws come loose on a regular basis (even with a dab of Loctite), and they've also been good as gold since.
RichardR said: I fitted an aftermarket gearknob that had the same sort of attachment as yours with the 3 grub screws at the base, and also used to resonate, no matter how much I tightened the screws.
I sounds like you've explored this avenue already, but my problem was caused by the top of the gearstick vibrating inside the metal casing of the inside of the gearknob. I solved the problem by wrapping some insulating tape around and over the top of the gearstick itself, until the gearknob was a really tight fit.
That was quite a few months back, and it's been fine since. The vibration also used to make the grub screws come loose on a regular basis (even with a dab of Loctite), and they've also been good as gold since.
Cheers for the tip
mine has an after market wooden knob and does exactly this, with three bloody grub screws as well, I'll try the tape trick 
. It has before made me turn my ear to the engine to see if the tinging noises were light pinking, only to realise that it was time to tighten up the knob grub screws
, that or the knob comes off in your hand when selecting reverse Harry
PS no gags about knobs coming off in your hand please
I followed this thread with interest as my S3 has the same problem. So far there are three possible causes:
- gearknob (RichardR)
- TVR dogleg assembly(RoyC)
- Ford box (shpub)
In my case, I can rule out the gearknob, since the problem persists even when I remove the gearknob completely (although it is quieter, so the gearknob seems to add a "secondary" resonance).
I want to investigate the other possible causes. Roy, Steve, do you have any further info on how to go about it? I assume that if the dogleg is the cause, it is just a case of checking for play or tightness of bolts, correct? If it is the box itself, how can this be rectified?
Andy
- gearknob (RichardR)
- TVR dogleg assembly(RoyC)
- Ford box (shpub)
In my case, I can rule out the gearknob, since the problem persists even when I remove the gearknob completely (although it is quieter, so the gearknob seems to add a "secondary" resonance).
I want to investigate the other possible causes. Roy, Steve, do you have any further info on how to go about it? I assume that if the dogleg is the cause, it is just a case of checking for play or tightness of bolts, correct? If it is the box itself, how can this be rectified?
Andy
You can check your dogleg by lifting the center console. Having said that mine was completely welded and there was a total absence of nuts and bolts that could have come lose.
If it's the box you can remove the engine and gearbox in one go, separate the gearbox and get it reconditioned as I did earlier this year.
Regards,
Mark
If it's the box you can remove the engine and gearbox in one go, separate the gearbox and get it reconditioned as I did earlier this year.
Regards,
Mark
dern said:
If it's the box you can remove the engine and gearbox in one go, separate the gearbox and get it reconditioned as I did earlier this year.
Regards,
Mark
That's certainly beyond me, but something to discuss come service time again. Apart from the resonance, I feel the gearbox is ok. The only other thing is that the changes from 1st to 2nd are slower than I would like. I'm not sure yet if that's just the way it is or a sign of wear. Something else to investigate... Mark
That's certainly beyond me, but something to discuss come service time again. Apart from the resonance, I feel the gearbox is ok. The only other thing is that the changes from 1st to 2nd are slower than I would like. I'm not sure yet if that's just the way it is or a sign of wear. Something else to investigate... I have always found the change from 1st to 2nd to be the most awkward. I've had the car for 4 years and I have generally improved, but I think it is a case of "they all do that sir". I now wait to be shot down.
Gassing Station | S Series | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff