EFI Mapping

[rev-erend]

OK - my new Emerald is due to arrive shortly.. I also have a wide band lambda with display unit (AFR & Ehaust gas temp readouts) ..

Being an Emerald (3 map's) it should come with a fairly good base map - so I'm hoping to have some fun and map it at home. With a rolling Road session later..

Does anyone have practical experience of mapping - do I just aim for 14.7 AFR at all load points (forgetting the accelerator pump over fueling for now).

Will the effect of speed and air drag cause this to be far out - I can check some load points out on my local private road but was interested if makes much difference setting up on the drive way rather than real world on the road or a rolling road.

Edited by rev-erend on Friday 3rd August 12:08

[jcas]

This may be of some use -> http://www.g2.nu/chris/misc/emerald-afr/

James

[rev-erend]

That's interesting thanks - I have a feeling it would get richer as the load sites increased.

[350Matt]

Wotcha Rev

First thing I would do is fit a much longer screw to the footwell throttle stop to enable you to adjust it without poking your head into the footwell. Then when you go out take the car to somewhere quiet (industrial estate ?) and with the laptop running ( you might need a 12V cigarette lighter adaptor for the laptop) set the throttle so when its mashed into the stop, it gives you the 2nd line on the map.

Make sure that you are dead centre in the load site before setting off.

Then start the data logger and drive off in as high a gear it will tolerate and plant your foot into the stop, the engine will pull against the load of the car and gradually (depending on how far open the throttle is) accelerate. Run it out as high as it will rev (to red-line if poss) then stop and take a look at the logged data and then unwind the stop a bit and repeat for the 3rd line.

You'll rapidly appreciate how quickly you run out of road doing the top lines of the map and I'd recommend a co-pilot to look at the laptop whilst you drive.

If you've set your logger up right you can see where its rich and where its lean and adjust accordingly bear in mind that lambda scale is linear so 0.88 lambda is 12% richer than lambda 1 (14.7)

Also before mapping shuffle the load sites around to give you more resolution at low throttle openings as this really helps make the car more driveable. should go something like:

0%
3%
6%
10%
15%
22%
30%
38%
46%
55%
65%
75%
88%
100%

then once having run along every line of the map its time to get it to the rollers.

Oh and start with a fairly conservative spark map as well, no more than 30° to begin with

Also you can run quite lean (lambda 1.1 ish) at low throttle openings ( sub 35% say) and low revs ( sub 3500Rpm) you then richen it up to about 0.86 at the top

Best of luck with it

if you want any advice drop me a line

Matt

Edited by 350Matt on Friday 3rd August 13:01

[rev-erend]

Matt - I certainly will.

It's not here yet - but I have the coil pack, cable, crimp kit.. may need to solder some joints, need to fit the trigger wheel - it's gonna have to be welded to the front pulley - as I've already tried the back and it's a no go..

Probably start this all in a months time.

Need to wire up the wide band lambda first
http://www.zeitronix.com/index.html

Looks a nice piece of kit !

[Mattt]

The Haynes Engine Management book is based around the Emerald system (written by Dave Walker IIRC) - and gives some good advice about fitting and mapping (again IIRC).

[rev-erend]

Mattt said:

The Haynes Engine Management book is based around the Emerald system (written by Dave Walker IIRC) - and gives some good advice about fitting and mapping (again IIRC).

Yep - got that.

[350Matt]

I take it this is going in the wedge?

I fitted my coils behind the engine , made a long bracket which bridged the gap and bolted them onto this.
I bolted my trigger disc onto the back of the crank pulley but I did make the disc myself and put a large crank / offset to it to clear the power steering pulley, if you do weld it on make d@mn sure that its all square and true otherwise you'll have all sorts of running problems ( 0.2mm runout is probably acceptable)

I welded my lambda boss in the passenger side manifold in the straight seciton before it meets the silencer box pointing directly up

Best of luck

Matt

[rev-erend]

350Matt said:

I take it this is going in the wedge?

I fitted my coils behind the engine , made a long bracket which bridged the gap and bolted them onto this.
I bolted my trigger disc onto the back of the crank pulley but I did make the disc myself and put a large crank / offset to it to clear the power steering pulley, if you do weld it on make d@mn sure that its all square and true otherwise you'll have all sorts of running problems ( 0.2mm runout is probably acceptable)

I welded my lambda boss in the passenger side manifold in the straight seciton before it meets the silencer box pointing directly up

Best of luck

Matt

Re: Pulley - yes had assumed that would be the case .. figured a file next to the pulley would find out if it was true or not..

Have already got the boss(es) in the exhaust.. one in the place you describe and the other an inch from the top (before the bend) currently file a bolt and a pinto spark plug in the holes.

[350Matt]

Ooh just remembered, I didn't bolt the trigger wheel behind the power steering pulley I sandwiched it between the two , I made the disc so it was only 1.5 mm thick in the sandwiched bit and then mushroomed out to give a fat 5mm wide tooth once it was clear of the pulley
Perhaps you can get you trigger wheel spot faced in the middle to do the same?


Matt

[rev-erend]

350Matt said:

Ooh just remembered, I didn't bolt the trigger wheel behind the power steering pulley I sandwiched it between the two , I made the disc so it was only 1.5 mm thick in the sandwiched bit and then mushroomed out to give a fat 5mm wide tooth once it was clear of the pulley
Perhaps you can get you trigger wheel spot faced in the middle to do the same?

Matt

I'll take a look - as the pulley does split but it rubbed on the timing cover when mounted at the back..

I'll try middle and front with spot welds ... cranking speed only ( if at fully speed)

[GreenV8S]

Are you using the rear part of the standard pulley? Since it's unused on mine (no PAS, aircon etc) I was able to get rid and put the timing wheel in its place.

[rev-erend]

Yep - using it..

Junked the A/C.

Still have PAS and Alternator.

Yep - it's for the SEAC.

[eliot]

Some ideas for fitting a 36-1 wheel on an intermediate serp front end here:
http://www.mez.co.uk/ms11.html

[rev-erend]

Sadly I'm not inter Serp.. not yet anyway.