DIY Bike servicing
Discussion
My bike in a '98 Yamaha XJ900s Divvi which I use for commuting to work - mostly motorway miles. 70 miles a day, all weathers.
I tend to change the oil and filter myself every 3000 or so miles..and erm, that's about it.
Tyres, brake pads/disks, other bits and bobs like suspension bushes/seals etc are all changed as and when needed.
I've never balanced the carbs, checked the tappets or changed the cam chain etc. The bike is rapidly approaching 70'000 miles - still going strong and running perfectly - good mpg, no rattles or knocks, always passes it's MOT etc.
I'm just wondering if any of the afformentioned things (tappets, cam chain etc) ever need checking or replacing?
I tend to change the oil and filter myself every 3000 or so miles..and erm, that's about it.
Tyres, brake pads/disks, other bits and bobs like suspension bushes/seals etc are all changed as and when needed.
I've never balanced the carbs, checked the tappets or changed the cam chain etc. The bike is rapidly approaching 70'000 miles - still going strong and running perfectly - good mpg, no rattles or knocks, always passes it's MOT etc.
I'm just wondering if any of the afformentioned things (tappets, cam chain etc) ever need checking or replacing?
Cam chains run in a near-perfect environment of permanent lubrication. Although they do stretch with time, most bikes since the dawn of time have tensioners onthat compensate to keep the cam timing correct.
Of course you could still have a catastrophic failure (the chain snaps) but it's bloody rare that they do... I recall helping my bro change the chain in his GPz550 and we couldn't honestly tell the difference between them by the amount of sideways deflection (like you would with a drive chain).
Honda used to use 'Hy-Vo' chains which were made from stamped laminations and were particularly robust as the load was being spread across so many component parts at once.
Carbs are a different story and should be balanced; it's remarkable how much of a difference it can make.
Of course you could still have a catastrophic failure (the chain snaps) but it's bloody rare that they do... I recall helping my bro change the chain in his GPz550 and we couldn't honestly tell the difference between them by the amount of sideways deflection (like you would with a drive chain).
Honda used to use 'Hy-Vo' chains which were made from stamped laminations and were particularly robust as the load was being spread across so many component parts at once.
Carbs are a different story and should be balanced; it's remarkable how much of a difference it can make.
podman said:
Id say it'd be worth getting the valve clearences checked..they can get tighter rather than looser and burn away..
Shes done you proud thou eh..
Thanks for the replies.Shes done you proud thou eh..
The valves use shims and aren't like old engines where you can adjust them with a spanner.
Can these tighten up?
I think I'd only change the camchain if it was actually noisy as it's difficult to see how it could simply break like a belt.
At 70k I'd check the valve clearences as they are *way* over due. I also think I'd do a compression and leak down test if the clearences are way out just in case they've been tight for a while and you've damaged the valves.
At 70k I'd check the valve clearences as they are *way* over due. I also think I'd do a compression and leak down test if the clearences are way out just in case they've been tight for a while and you've damaged the valves.
OK, I guess I should get the valves and carbs balanced then.
Can someone explain to me how they can 'tighten up' though. Surely the only way they can go out of specification is if the cam lobes are badly worn down...when I popped the rocker cover off a few months ago to fix a small oil leak they looked like new!
Both my cars have done over 150'000 miles (the Toyota is on 180'000 miles) with documented history - no mention of the valves ever being looked at - both run fine.
I can understand adjustment is needed with older push-rod type engines, but overhead cam engines with shims?
Sorry if I'm sounding a bit thick - but I'm tight fisted and don't like paying for unnecessary work
Can someone explain to me how they can 'tighten up' though. Surely the only way they can go out of specification is if the cam lobes are badly worn down...when I popped the rocker cover off a few months ago to fix a small oil leak they looked like new!
Both my cars have done over 150'000 miles (the Toyota is on 180'000 miles) with documented history - no mention of the valves ever being looked at - both run fine.
I can understand adjustment is needed with older push-rod type engines, but overhead cam engines with shims?
Sorry if I'm sounding a bit thick - but I'm tight fisted and don't like paying for unnecessary work
tfm said:
Can someone explain to me how they can 'tighten up' though. Surely the only way they can go out of specification is if the cam lobes are badly worn down...when I popped the rocker cover off a few months ago to fix a small oil leak they looked like new!
You could get a build up of something on the shim, valve top, valve seal surfaces or rocker I guess. tfm said:
Both my cars have done over 150'000 miles (the Toyota is on 180'000 miles) with documented history - no mention of the valves ever being looked at - both run fine.
They'll have hydraulic valves though I imagine.tfm said:
I can understand adjustment is needed with older push-rod type engines, but overhead cam engines with shims?
Sorry if I'm sounding a bit thick - but I'm tight fisted and don't like paying for unnecessary work
It's dead easy to check. Just whip off the rocker cover and follow the haynes guide. Then you'll just need to pay if any are out (although it's pretty straight forward if time consuming to do)Sorry if I'm sounding a bit thick - but I'm tight fisted and don't like paying for unnecessary work
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