Whats the best way to dry a GRP kit car?

[anonymous-user]

I took my Tiger for a spin at the weekend, and got it covered in general oily black road water. The roads seemed to be covered in black oily water rather than the usual clear rain water.

It's been in the garage since and tonight the body was still slimy and wet. I've wiped off all the black gunk and cleaned it up but the GRP still feels damp. Seeing as the surface hasn't dried I assume the underneath and innards are still wet.

The up and over garage door has a gap of about 1/2 inch under it, and as it bucketing down I assume the air coming in is quite damp. I have a couple of minor rusty edges to sort and I want to get the car properly dry before I do that, and also Waxoyl inside in the chassis rails.

Is it wise to get a portable electric heater for the garage and run that for a few hours to dry it all off?

cheers
James

Edited by anonymous-user on Tuesday 20th November 20:43

Edited by anonymous-user on Tuesday 20th November 20:44

[jimmystratos]

That would do it OK. Don't play heat directly on the GRP or it might warp/move.
DON'T use radiant heaters or naked flames if there is fuel, solvents about - might make a big bang!
DON'T use paraffin/propane heaters or space heaters - they produce water and it will condense on cold metal, increasing corrosion.

[mattstead]

the problem with one of those electric heaters up is that when the place cools you'll get condensation on the cold steel, so let it cool down slowly. To be honest you'd be better with a combined heater / dehumidifier.

But your best bet would to be to get a "carcoon", or ensure that you try and get some central heating in the garage (if possible) to keep the chill off the whole damp air situation.

[Steve_D]

First job is to seal the garage door or all your efforts will be wasted. You can buy 'Brush strip' in B&Q which as per description is an ali backing with a line of bristles. Pop rivet that to the bottom of the door. Do the sides and top as well if they also have gaps.

Steve