Anyone know a yellow GTO 3 DKO3 LBV?
Discussion
sc00by57 said:
Back on ebay again, says its a Cat D now tho... 22k... i think not STILL....
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NOBLE-M12-GTO-3-V-SPORTS-COUPE-5-SPEED-MANUAL-F-S-H_W0QQitemZ300177776353QQihZ020QQcategoryZ18308QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Note that it has the "old style" fans on the rad, which were never upto the job, if it was a well maintained car this is a update that would have been done. Also the wear on the seat seems high considering the milege!
£20K for a cat D, with no info of the repair/damage, I wouldn't touch it with a bardge pole.
£20K for a cat D, with no info of the repair/damage, I wouldn't touch it with a bardge pole.
Hi Mike,
Just to clear things up, ignore my last post. Sure a write-off does not necessarily mean its unroadworthy only if it was repaired by qualified people who know what they're doing. if you're intending on purchasing a write-off then its in your best interests to get an inspector to check the work out to see if its been completed to a safe standard. If the inspector gives it the all clear, then i guess there isn't much of a problem. Also if you are a seller you MUST state the car's condition. Obviously there are some people out there who do not care about the life of the person they wish to sell the car to. These cars come with practically zero safety equipment as it is. The only thing protecting the driver+passenger really is the chassis and it must be as strong as possible.
Another point to make is that deep rust covering the chassis, if left untreated is just as bad as a write-off, a friend of mine who has a TVR had the garage re-weld his chassis due to rust. Its a 10 year old car and if any of you had seen the photos of it you'd be shocked by how leathal rust really is. There was gaping holes all over the chassis and it was mainly in the areas covered by other parts of the car, even getting under the car proved difficult to see the worst of the rust, stripping the car was the only way. Any crash in that car could have been very nasty indeed.
so basically, if you're after a good deal with a write-off , please get it inspected thoroughly by a professional before buying. In most cases, CAT D and CAT C repaired cars should be fine.
i found this on another part of pistonheads -
A - Not for resale. Fire damaged (burnt-out), flood damaged (contaminated or salt water), severely damaged with no serviceable parts, or heavily stripped (shell).
Notification of Destruction required. (To be crushed). Recorded at DVLA & HPI.
B - Not for resale. Damaged beyond economical repair and/or severe structural damage.
Notification of Destruction required. (Parts can be removed and sold). Recorded at DVLA & HPI.
C - Repairable salvage. Generally applies to older vehicles. Can be sold for repair but must now have VIC inspection.
Recorded at DVLA & HPI.
D - Repairable salvage. Minimal damage sometimes stolen and found after claim has been paid, or cost of repair combined with difficulty obtaining new parts to enable a swift repair.
Recorded with HPI.
X - Repairable salvage. Not recorded on any registers such as HPI. Limited or very light damage, or vehicle is new or less than 12 months old. Usually requires minimal repair work.
NOT Recorded with HPI.
interesting reading
http://www.pistonheads.com/features/cutandpaste.ht...
Just to clear things up, ignore my last post. Sure a write-off does not necessarily mean its unroadworthy only if it was repaired by qualified people who know what they're doing. if you're intending on purchasing a write-off then its in your best interests to get an inspector to check the work out to see if its been completed to a safe standard. If the inspector gives it the all clear, then i guess there isn't much of a problem. Also if you are a seller you MUST state the car's condition. Obviously there are some people out there who do not care about the life of the person they wish to sell the car to. These cars come with practically zero safety equipment as it is. The only thing protecting the driver+passenger really is the chassis and it must be as strong as possible.
Another point to make is that deep rust covering the chassis, if left untreated is just as bad as a write-off, a friend of mine who has a TVR had the garage re-weld his chassis due to rust. Its a 10 year old car and if any of you had seen the photos of it you'd be shocked by how leathal rust really is. There was gaping holes all over the chassis and it was mainly in the areas covered by other parts of the car, even getting under the car proved difficult to see the worst of the rust, stripping the car was the only way. Any crash in that car could have been very nasty indeed.
so basically, if you're after a good deal with a write-off , please get it inspected thoroughly by a professional before buying. In most cases, CAT D and CAT C repaired cars should be fine.
i found this on another part of pistonheads -
A - Not for resale. Fire damaged (burnt-out), flood damaged (contaminated or salt water), severely damaged with no serviceable parts, or heavily stripped (shell).
Notification of Destruction required. (To be crushed). Recorded at DVLA & HPI.
B - Not for resale. Damaged beyond economical repair and/or severe structural damage.
Notification of Destruction required. (Parts can be removed and sold). Recorded at DVLA & HPI.
C - Repairable salvage. Generally applies to older vehicles. Can be sold for repair but must now have VIC inspection.
Recorded at DVLA & HPI.
D - Repairable salvage. Minimal damage sometimes stolen and found after claim has been paid, or cost of repair combined with difficulty obtaining new parts to enable a swift repair.
Recorded with HPI.
X - Repairable salvage. Not recorded on any registers such as HPI. Limited or very light damage, or vehicle is new or less than 12 months old. Usually requires minimal repair work.
NOT Recorded with HPI.
interesting reading
http://www.pistonheads.com/features/cutandpaste.ht...
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