How to treat and paint your chassis?
Discussion
Hi Guys,
Been following these forums for a while and has been of great help
I am restoring my chassis and had all the welding done, so there are some new and old panels underneath. The welder after finishing his work painted loads of red oxide over the new and old panels.
Now, I am really unsure what to do, as a newbie it is never easy. Do I sand off by hand all the red oxide? Do I sand off the black paint that comes on the new panels? Or do I just red oxide everything and chassis coat it black?
Sorry for all the questions but I just want to keep my vehicle water tight as it will be used as a daily and stored outside!
I have limited tools and working from the floor, don't have lifts or anything like you posh lads and lasses
I did buy a book but it hasn't really helped answering newbie questions
Take care,
Jamie
Been following these forums for a while and has been of great help
I am restoring my chassis and had all the welding done, so there are some new and old panels underneath. The welder after finishing his work painted loads of red oxide over the new and old panels. Now, I am really unsure what to do, as a newbie it is never easy. Do I sand off by hand all the red oxide? Do I sand off the black paint that comes on the new panels? Or do I just red oxide everything and chassis coat it black?
Sorry for all the questions but I just want to keep my vehicle water tight as it will be used as a daily and stored outside!
I have limited tools and working from the floor, don't have lifts or anything like you posh lads and lasses
I did buy a book but it hasn't really helped answering newbie questions
Take care,
Jamie
Oh by the way I have searched and searched through the forums and found one guy that red oxides before POR15, don't really see the point in that as it is for rust and works best on bare metal I would imagine?
Also I am on a tight budget and sending off to be shot blast isn't an option, sadly
Also I am on a tight budget and sending off to be shot blast isn't an option, sadly
I assume you want to end up with everything protected against rust and with a reasonably uniform appearance.
Red oxide is obviously a primer and designed to have a protective top coat over it. Leave it on - you're unlikely to replace it with any better.
Do you know what the black paint is? If it's a primer, you should be able to just clean and degrease everything and paint over it. If it's a top coat you may need to roughen the surface or apply a bonding coat.
Then I'd suggest you apply a top coat of chassis paint over everything. The POR15 rust protection paint isn't ideal as a top coat because it's designed to bond to the metal, and because it's not UV stable so it needs another paint over the top. There are various chassis paints which are designed to provide a tough weather proof outer layer, there is one in the POR range but nothing special about that one and others would be just as good I'm sure.
Get yourself a Frost catalogue and you will find all the materials you need.
Remember that whatever paints you use, preparation is critical. There are lots of paints that will do a good job, but the best paint in the world won't matter if you don't prepare the surface properly.
Red oxide is obviously a primer and designed to have a protective top coat over it. Leave it on - you're unlikely to replace it with any better.
Do you know what the black paint is? If it's a primer, you should be able to just clean and degrease everything and paint over it. If it's a top coat you may need to roughen the surface or apply a bonding coat.
Then I'd suggest you apply a top coat of chassis paint over everything. The POR15 rust protection paint isn't ideal as a top coat because it's designed to bond to the metal, and because it's not UV stable so it needs another paint over the top. There are various chassis paints which are designed to provide a tough weather proof outer layer, there is one in the POR range but nothing special about that one and others would be just as good I'm sure.
Get yourself a Frost catalogue and you will find all the materials you need.
Remember that whatever paints you use, preparation is critical. There are lots of paints that will do a good job, but the best paint in the world won't matter if you don't prepare the surface properly.
Hi,
Yep you assume correctly my friend
The way the welder slapped the red oxide does worry me and wonder whether I should sand it back and re-apply red oxide? The black coating on the new panels is what most panels I have seen come with. Apparently you can just wet and dry this and prime, though not a 100%.
What would you suggest the best method of rubbing down underneath and air tools or would this be by hand. 80 grit be fine?
I will look at getting a frost catalogue and chassis paints. After chassis would you schutz it and waxoyl over the top?
Sorry for all the questions, waiting for another "how to paint you car" book turn up but want to get started.
Take care and thanks for your time
J
Yep you assume correctly my friend
The way the welder slapped the red oxide does worry me and wonder whether I should sand it back and re-apply red oxide? The black coating on the new panels is what most panels I have seen come with. Apparently you can just wet and dry this and prime, though not a 100%.
What would you suggest the best method of rubbing down underneath and air tools or would this be by hand. 80 grit be fine?
I will look at getting a frost catalogue and chassis paints. After chassis would you schutz it and waxoyl over the top?
Sorry for all the questions, waiting for another "how to paint you car" book turn up but want to get started.
Take care and thanks for your time
J
GreenV8S said:
I assume you want to end up with everything protected against rust and with a reasonably uniform appearance.
Red oxide is obviously a primer and designed to have a protective top coat over it. Leave it on - you're unlikely to replace it with any better.
Do you know what the black paint is? If it's a primer, you should be able to just clean and degrease everything and paint over it. If it's a top coat you may need to roughen the surface or apply a bonding coat.
Then I'd suggest you apply a top coat of chassis paint over everything. The POR15 rust protection paint isn't ideal as a top coat because it's designed to bond to the metal, and because it's not UV stable so it needs another paint over the top. There are various chassis paints which are designed to provide a tough weather proof outer layer, there is one in the POR range but nothing special about that one and others would be just as good I'm sure.
Get yourself a Frost catalogue and you will find all the materials you need.
Remember that whatever paints you use, preparation is critical. There are lots of paints that will do a good job, but the best paint in the world won't matter if you don't prepare the surface properly.
Red oxide is obviously a primer and designed to have a protective top coat over it. Leave it on - you're unlikely to replace it with any better.
Do you know what the black paint is? If it's a primer, you should be able to just clean and degrease everything and paint over it. If it's a top coat you may need to roughen the surface or apply a bonding coat.
Then I'd suggest you apply a top coat of chassis paint over everything. The POR15 rust protection paint isn't ideal as a top coat because it's designed to bond to the metal, and because it's not UV stable so it needs another paint over the top. There are various chassis paints which are designed to provide a tough weather proof outer layer, there is one in the POR range but nothing special about that one and others would be just as good I'm sure.
Get yourself a Frost catalogue and you will find all the materials you need.
Remember that whatever paints you use, preparation is critical. There are lots of paints that will do a good job, but the best paint in the world won't matter if you don't prepare the surface properly.
I don't know what standard you are aiming for or what kind of budget you have but the only way to get a good rust free base would be to have it sand blasted (think they actualy use some kind of plastic aggregate).
After that for a top finish you could have it dipped in zinc and then powder coated, or just powder coated. That is obviously expensive, I've seen it done on a Landy and cost about £1500.
Failing that remove all the rust you can see and clean the whole lot with a degreaser / prepaint solvent. Then a couple of coats of Hammerite and finally a few coats of underseal (which will probably dry out over time, needing reappliation).
After that for a top finish you could have it dipped in zinc and then powder coated, or just powder coated. That is obviously expensive, I've seen it done on a Landy and cost about £1500.
Failing that remove all the rust you can see and clean the whole lot with a degreaser / prepaint solvent. Then a couple of coats of Hammerite and finally a few coats of underseal (which will probably dry out over time, needing reappliation).
nice one my friend. I am going down the hammerite route. Just to check, on the hammerite website is says to sand surface and wipe down with whitespirit, is it OK to use whitespirit as they are so anti using anything else than their own thinners to clean equipment and thin paint down?
Many thanks,
J
Many thanks,
J
Thats what I would of thought, but here it states otherwise ??? http://www.hammerite.com/uk/products/usage/ug_dtr_...
Anatol said:
The white spirit is just to degrease the surface. You don't need any brand-name thinners for that...
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