Restoring BMW Techno-Violet paint
Discussion
Hi all 
Just bought an old smoker for a bag of chips and a fluffy polo, but I think it has a lot of potential. It's very straight and solid and has a really nice interior (dirty, but good condition).
I haven't really done a full inspection of the paint but it's done 115,000 miles and looks quite well used.
I've got some basic valeting gear in the office, but I'm not really sure if what I have will do more damage to it or not. I've seen perfectly detailed techno-violet paint before and it looks amazing. It would be great if I could get the paint to pop on my new daily driver
I was thinking of giving clay a try so I could get all the crap out of the paint first, but does this paint have a lacquer finish and should I be using cutting compound? I have autosmart mild compound... should I look at getting it done by machine?
Any help greatly appreciated
Just bought an old smoker for a bag of chips and a fluffy polo, but I think it has a lot of potential. It's very straight and solid and has a really nice interior (dirty, but good condition).
I haven't really done a full inspection of the paint but it's done 115,000 miles and looks quite well used.
I've got some basic valeting gear in the office, but I'm not really sure if what I have will do more damage to it or not. I've seen perfectly detailed techno-violet paint before and it looks amazing. It would be great if I could get the paint to pop on my new daily driver
I was thinking of giving clay a try so I could get all the crap out of the paint first, but does this paint have a lacquer finish and should I be using cutting compound? I have autosmart mild compound... should I look at getting it done by machine?
Any help greatly appreciated
What year is the car?
Clay - yes, by all means - and I can't recommend the Bilt Hamber one highly enough. It'll pull so much crap and crud off/out of the paint, you'll be in shock.
With any polishing, you're best to start off with the softest pad and least aggressive compound combo, before deciding to go harder or/and more aggressive.
What machine are you planning on using - PC, Meg's G220, or a rotary?
Clay - yes, by all means - and I can't recommend the Bilt Hamber one highly enough. It'll pull so much crap and crud off/out of the paint, you'll be in shock.
With any polishing, you're best to start off with the softest pad and least aggressive compound combo, before deciding to go harder or/and more aggressive.
What machine are you planning on using - PC, Meg's G220, or a rotary?
I haven't got a machine - I think my mate has one that I can borrow, but I'm not sure what it is... Just looks like an angle grinder with a pad
Car is 1996 on a 'P', 318is Coupe.
Sad I know, but I even went out in my dressing gown last night to pat it goodnight
Well, they need to know they're loved don't they?
What?
Car is 1996 on a 'P', 318is Coupe.
Sad I know, but I even went out in my dressing gown last night to pat it goodnight
Well, they need to know they're loved don't they?What?
If the axle grinder is a rotary, then I'd hold off on it for now! You'd be safer to use a random orbital polisher as there's less heat generated and less chance of strike-through.
As for the paint - 1996 should be a clearcoated job. The BMW forum might give you a definitive, as would a quick call to the local BMW dealership's service dept. or a body repair outfit.
Regarding clay - www.bilthamber.co.uk and/or www.pro-detailing.co.uk, contact Nick by e-mail, and since he works for BMW in their paint division, he'll be able to advise on the suitability of the compound you have there.
I would also consider letting someone with all the tools necessary do the restoration, you can do the washing/claying before they arrive, and then maintain the finish thereon in.
Might be more cost effective.
As for the paint - 1996 should be a clearcoated job. The BMW forum might give you a definitive, as would a quick call to the local BMW dealership's service dept. or a body repair outfit.
Regarding clay - www.bilthamber.co.uk and/or www.pro-detailing.co.uk, contact Nick by e-mail, and since he works for BMW in their paint division, he'll be able to advise on the suitability of the compound you have there.
I would also consider letting someone with all the tools necessary do the restoration, you can do the washing/claying before they arrive, and then maintain the finish thereon in.
Might be more cost effective.
PJ S said:
If the axle grinder is a rotary, then I'd hold off on it for now! You'd be safer to use a random orbital polisher as there's less heat generated and less chance of strike-through.
As for the paint - 1996 should be a clearcoated job. The BMW forum might give you a definitive, as would a quick call to the local BMW dealership's service dept. or a body repair outfit.
Regarding clay - www.bilthamber.co.uk and/or www.pro-detailing.co.uk, contact Nick by e-mail, and since he works for BMW in their paint division, he'll be able to advise on the suitability of the compound you have there.
I would also consider letting someone with all the tools necessary do the restoration, you can do the washing/claying before they arrive, and then maintain the finish thereon in.
Might be more cost effective.
Thanks for all that. I'll try and get hold of Nick later today As for the paint - 1996 should be a clearcoated job. The BMW forum might give you a definitive, as would a quick call to the local BMW dealership's service dept. or a body repair outfit.
Regarding clay - www.bilthamber.co.uk and/or www.pro-detailing.co.uk, contact Nick by e-mail, and since he works for BMW in their paint division, he'll be able to advise on the suitability of the compound you have there.
I would also consider letting someone with all the tools necessary do the restoration, you can do the washing/claying before they arrive, and then maintain the finish thereon in.
Might be more cost effective.
I'd really like to do it myself - I've used a buffer before but I've never really known what I'm doing with it (I used to be a valeter, but I could never be classed as a detailer!). As long as you keep the speed down and use plenty of water to lube the surface it should be ok shouldn't it?
I've just signed up to detailingworld and e36coupe too so should get some answers back re: clearcoat or not.
Valeter/detailer - the term can be interchanged depending on the amount of work you do.
Some valeters will do what a detailer does, but stick with the English term rather than differentiate themselves with the American term.
There's a bone of contention over the terminology, but it's immaterial if the attention to detail is equal.
As for the buffer - if you use foam pads and keep the speed down, whilst constantly moving it around the area being polished, then you should do little in the way of damage. Buffer trails may be an issue, but they can be removed by using a finer grade polish or a RO unit like the Meguiar's G220 or the Cyclo dual-headed one that I use.
Not sure how the AS stuff stacks up, but the better polishes tend to be Menzerna and 3M, with some liking the Meguiar's ones.
Follow the polishing with an IPA or DoDo Lime Prime wipe down, to make sure all defects have been removed and not masked, then wax/seal the car.
Some valeters will do what a detailer does, but stick with the English term rather than differentiate themselves with the American term.
There's a bone of contention over the terminology, but it's immaterial if the attention to detail is equal.
As for the buffer - if you use foam pads and keep the speed down, whilst constantly moving it around the area being polished, then you should do little in the way of damage. Buffer trails may be an issue, but they can be removed by using a finer grade polish or a RO unit like the Meguiar's G220 or the Cyclo dual-headed one that I use.
Not sure how the AS stuff stacks up, but the better polishes tend to be Menzerna and 3M, with some liking the Meguiar's ones.
Follow the polishing with an IPA or DoDo Lime Prime wipe down, to make sure all defects have been removed and not masked, then wax/seal the car.
PJ S said:
As for the buffer - if you use foam pads and keep the speed down, whilst constantly moving it around the area being polished, then you should do little in the way of damage. Buffer trails may be an issue, but they can be removed by using a finer grade polish or a RO unit like the Meguiar's G220 or the Cyclo dual-headed one that I use.
Not sure how the AS stuff stacks up, but the better polishes tend to be Menzerna and 3M, with some liking the Meguiar's ones.
Follow the polishing with an IPA or DoDo Lime Prime wipe down, to make sure all defects have been removed and not masked, then wax/seal the car.
The cutting compound I have is Autosmart Cut Back. It looks similar to T-Cut (same colour and smell!) but I never really got on with T-Cut, it used to piss me off working with it outside in the sun!Not sure how the AS stuff stacks up, but the better polishes tend to be Menzerna and 3M, with some liking the Meguiar's ones.
Follow the polishing with an IPA or DoDo Lime Prime wipe down, to make sure all defects have been removed and not masked, then wax/seal the car.
I've read that T-Cut isn't the best thing to use anyway. Or is that to do with it's colour retoring properties? Ie: I don't need to restore any colour but I just want to remove some defects so it should be ok...
Cheers
T-Cut? You'd have better results and less damage using barbed wire!Seriously, steer well clear of the stuff - it's a paint stripper.
I'll have a search on DW, as can you now you're a member, for the AS polish, to see how abrasive it is. It might be alright, but the preferred brands tend to be Menz and 3M, for ease of working, finish, and effectiveness.
PJ S said:
T-Cut? You'd have better results and less damage using barbed wire!Seriously, steer well clear of the stuff - it's a paint stripper.
I'll have a search on DW, as can you now you're a member, for the AS polish, to see how abrasive it is. It might be alright, but the preferred brands tend to be Menz and 3M, for ease of working, finish, and effectiveness.
My account hasn't been activated yet which is annoying. Hopefully get a chance to have a look later
Nothing popped up there, but a Google shows it as a hand application for oxidation and dull paint restoration.
From that, I'm leaning very strongly towards another T-Cut type polish - fairly abrasive.
So, wouldn't be confident of recommending it on a polisher.
You're definitely better off spending a few £ on the better products to do less harm and get the end results you're looking for.
From that, I'm leaning very strongly towards another T-Cut type polish - fairly abrasive.
So, wouldn't be confident of recommending it on a polisher.
You're definitely better off spending a few £ on the better products to do less harm and get the end results you're looking for.
Ok... I was going to post this up on detailingworld, but I may as well ask you since you're here - Whatshould I do first?
I was going to give it a good jet wash and a clay, then see what the paint looks like. Do I need to polish straight after claying or will a quick coat of AG Extra Gloss Protection protect the paint until I can do the job properly?
I might not even need to use a machine. I haven't spent that long checking the paintwork out...
I was going to give it a good jet wash and a clay, then see what the paint looks like. Do I need to polish straight after claying or will a quick coat of AG Extra Gloss Protection protect the paint until I can do the job properly?
I might not even need to use a machine. I haven't spent that long checking the paintwork out...
A good wash and claying - use the Bilt Hamber ones linked above.
After drying with a microfibre towel, you can inspect the paint for swirls, etc.
If you buy the kit and use their Balm, you may find the fillers used hide enough of the defects for you to live with it for a while, until the better weather comes, and you can then set about tackling the defects.
Get a good sheepskin mitt or two - www.sheepskinshop.co.uk
After drying with a microfibre towel, you can inspect the paint for swirls, etc.
If you buy the kit and use their Balm, you may find the fillers used hide enough of the defects for you to live with it for a while, until the better weather comes, and you can then set about tackling the defects.
Get a good sheepskin mitt or two - www.sheepskinshop.co.uk
KingRichard said:
Ok... I was going to post this up on detailingworld, but I may as well ask you since you're here - Whatshould I do first?
I was going to give it a good jet wash and a clay, then see what the paint looks like. Do I need to polish straight after claying or will a quick coat of AG Extra Gloss Protection protect the paint until I can do the job properly?
I might not even need to use a machine. I haven't spent that long checking the paintwork out...
Clay first, then Zymol HD Cleanse and a nice carnuba wax to follow I was going to give it a good jet wash and a clay, then see what the paint looks like. Do I need to polish straight after claying or will a quick coat of AG Extra Gloss Protection protect the paint until I can do the job properly?
I might not even need to use a machine. I haven't spent that long checking the paintwork out...
Keep well away from the T-Cut
TheGriffalo said:
KingRichard said:
Ok... I was going to post this up on detailingworld, but I may as well ask you since you're here - Whatshould I do first?
I was going to give it a good jet wash and a clay, then see what the paint looks like. Do I need to polish straight after claying or will a quick coat of AG Extra Gloss Protection protect the paint until I can do the job properly?
I might not even need to use a machine. I haven't spent that long checking the paintwork out...
Clay first, then Zymol HD Cleanse and a nice carnuba wax to follow I was going to give it a good jet wash and a clay, then see what the paint looks like. Do I need to polish straight after claying or will a quick coat of AG Extra Gloss Protection protect the paint until I can do the job properly?
I might not even need to use a machine. I haven't spent that long checking the paintwork out...
Keep well away from the T-Cut
You fancy that beer sometime soon? I spent nearly the whole day yesterday around East Sussex and Surrey, should have looked you up!
Surely the cleansing will just clean all the shit out of the paint, and then waxing it will show up any defects even worse?
I guess I just want to rip the top layer of paint off
KingRichard said:
TheGriffalo said:
KingRichard said:
Ok... I was going to post this up on detailingworld, but I may as well ask you since you're here - Whatshould I do first?
I was going to give it a good jet wash and a clay, then see what the paint looks like. Do I need to polish straight after claying or will a quick coat of AG Extra Gloss Protection protect the paint until I can do the job properly?
I might not even need to use a machine. I haven't spent that long checking the paintwork out...
Clay first, then Zymol HD Cleanse and a nice carnuba wax to follow I was going to give it a good jet wash and a clay, then see what the paint looks like. Do I need to polish straight after claying or will a quick coat of AG Extra Gloss Protection protect the paint until I can do the job properly?
I might not even need to use a machine. I haven't spent that long checking the paintwork out...
Keep well away from the T-Cut
You fancy that beer sometime soon? I spent nearly the whole day yesterday around East Sussex and Surrey, should have looked you up!
Surely the cleansing will just clean all the shit out of the paint, and then waxing it will show up any defects even worse?
I guess I just want to rip the top layer of paint off
I've done quite a lot of paint restoration and I'm in the "less is more" school of thought. The clay bar takes all the contaminants off and the HD Cleanse cleans it. You would be amazed at what a "proper" clean can do for your paintwork
T-Cut is way too coarse for my liking. As I was taught as an apprentice, you can't cut on.
TheGriffalo said:
KingRichard said:
TheGriffalo said:
KingRichard said:
Ok... I was going to post this up on detailingworld, but I may as well ask you since you're here - Whatshould I do first?
I was going to give it a good jet wash and a clay, then see what the paint looks like. Do I need to polish straight after claying or will a quick coat of AG Extra Gloss Protection protect the paint until I can do the job properly?
I might not even need to use a machine. I haven't spent that long checking the paintwork out...
Clay first, then Zymol HD Cleanse and a nice carnuba wax to follow I was going to give it a good jet wash and a clay, then see what the paint looks like. Do I need to polish straight after claying or will a quick coat of AG Extra Gloss Protection protect the paint until I can do the job properly?
I might not even need to use a machine. I haven't spent that long checking the paintwork out...
Keep well away from the T-Cut
You fancy that beer sometime soon? I spent nearly the whole day yesterday around East Sussex and Surrey, should have looked you up!
Surely the cleansing will just clean all the shit out of the paint, and then waxing it will show up any defects even worse?
I guess I just want to rip the top layer of paint off
I've done quite a lot of paint restoration and I'm in the "less is more" school of thought. The clay bar takes all the contaminants off and the HD Cleanse cleans it. You would be amazed at what a "proper" clean can do for your paintwork
T-Cut is way too coarse for my liking. As I was taught as an apprentice, you can't cut on.
Oh well, next time I'm cruising Ipswich for a lady of ill repute I'll look you up
PJ S said:
Yes, but the Cleanse will remove the fillers, as it doesn't contain any of its own, in which case you'll clearly see the various defects.
Something with a bit of fill will reduce that and leave only the worst ones, or at best, none at all.
Ok... how's this then?Something with a bit of fill will reduce that and leave only the worst ones, or at best, none at all.
Two washes.
Acid the wheels (which are in great condition).
Chamois Dry.
Clay.
Autoglym Super Resin Polish. (I've got AS Platiinum as well but I think it's got various polymers and stuff in it which is fine for the cabs but I don't really want to use it on my own cars).
Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection.
Polish Glass.
Dress Plastics and tyres.
Interior Shampoo and Wet Vac.
Vacuum and brush once dry to raise pile.
Dress interior trim.
THat should do, and then see what's needed from there
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