A quick basecoat question.
Discussion
The stock answer is going to be: follow the instructions on the TDS... and if you don't have one, get one from your supplier... (or off the manufacturer website, lots of them now let you download)
Different products have quite different requirements, and giving generic advice would be potentially unhelpful... Can you tell us what make and system of base and clear you're using?
Tol
Different products have quite different requirements, and giving generic advice would be potentially unhelpful... Can you tell us what make and system of base and clear you're using?
Tol
Ahhh, I see I'm stumbling around in the dark a bit, here!
I ordered from the paints 4u website (clicky) and was supplied a tin of BSB Basecoat and a tin of 1k laquer (another clicky ).
Neither tin has mixing or preparation guidelines printed on them, although there is a seperate pdf available for each tin from the above website, neither tells me when I can spray onto the basecoat.
I ordered from the paints 4u website (clicky) and was supplied a tin of BSB Basecoat and a tin of 1k laquer (another clicky ).
Neither tin has mixing or preparation guidelines printed on them, although there is a seperate pdf available for each tin from the above website, neither tells me when I can spray onto the basecoat.
all depends on temperature, really as the basecoat will obviously dry faster in a warmer enviroment .
basecoats dont normally take long to go off , and this should of happenend within a few hours max even in cooler conditions .
Just test a bit of overspray on any masking to check if its dry , if so your good to laquer ...
basecoats dont normally take long to go off , and this should of happenend within a few hours max even in cooler conditions .
Just test a bit of overspray on any masking to check if its dry , if so your good to laquer ...
106 gti said:
all depends on temperature, really as the basecoat will obviously dry faster in a warmer enviroment .
basecoats dont normally take long to go off , and this should of happenend within a few hours max even in cooler conditions .
Just test a bit of overspray on any masking to check if its dry , if so your good to laquer ...
I've been in the motor trade for a long time, and that's the way every professional painter I've ever seen tests it.basecoats dont normally take long to go off , and this should of happenend within a few hours max even in cooler conditions .
Just test a bit of overspray on any masking to check if its dry , if so your good to laquer ...
Both of your clicky links have the technical data sheets as a pdf on them :-)
Lechler suggest a flash off window before applying clearcoat of 20-30 minutes up to 24 hours. See also the warnings about the paint not being completely cured for several days if it is dried at temperatures below 60 degrees.
Out of interest, why did you choose the combination of a 2k paint, and a 1k clearcoat? It can be a bad idea to mix and match your systems and manufacturers, leading to long term durability issues... If you're set up for spraying 2k products, Lechler's Macrofan or Hydrofan lacquers are the recommended ones for this base. If you've minimal respiratory protection, you shouldn't be spraying 2k paint in an enclosed space, for your own sake.
Don't be guided by a paint supplier on what you 'should' use. The Mipa 1k lacquer you've been sold is outside the EU VOC limits, and supply of it is rapidly becoming illegal, so your supplier may have an ulterior motive for getting rid of stock of it...
HTH
Tol
Lechler suggest a flash off window before applying clearcoat of 20-30 minutes up to 24 hours. See also the warnings about the paint not being completely cured for several days if it is dried at temperatures below 60 degrees.
Out of interest, why did you choose the combination of a 2k paint, and a 1k clearcoat? It can be a bad idea to mix and match your systems and manufacturers, leading to long term durability issues... If you're set up for spraying 2k products, Lechler's Macrofan or Hydrofan lacquers are the recommended ones for this base. If you've minimal respiratory protection, you shouldn't be spraying 2k paint in an enclosed space, for your own sake.
Don't be guided by a paint supplier on what you 'should' use. The Mipa 1k lacquer you've been sold is outside the EU VOC limits, and supply of it is rapidly becoming illegal, so your supplier may have an ulterior motive for getting rid of stock of it...
HTH
Tol
Anatol said:
Both of your clicky links have the technical data sheets as a pdf on them :-)
Whoops. That'd be a case of rtfm! 
I'm aware that 2k contains lots of nasties that shouldn't enter your lungs or have long contact with exposed skin, hence one of the reasons for using 1k. I didn't know that basecoat is just as bad, though! It looks like I might be investing in some new equipment sooner rather than later....
The (initial) reasons for using 1k are twofold. Firstly, as above, it's not that difficult to spray at home as far as H+S issues go. A few sensible precautions and you're good to go. Secondly, the imperfections that are almost inevitable with home/diy spraying are relatively easy to flat and polish out.
In this instance, the longevity of the finish isn't of too great an importance. The bumper will have had many a bush/scrub/tree interface long before any fading or peeling might occur!
Obviously, the bumper I'm referring to is a nautical term and the EU laws regarding 1k for automotive use don't apply.
Thanks to everyone for your contribution, I'm quite looking forward to this weekend's activities.
Lechler basecoat is NOT 2k so don't worry.Basecoat is polyester,yes it contains a lot of solvent but no isocyanates which are the cancerogenic toxins that are present in 2k lacquer.
You'll be fine with a decent respirator
Also suppliers can continue to sell non compliant products until supplies run out so long as no new supplies are manufactured.
You'll be fine with a decent respirator
Also suppliers can continue to sell non compliant products until supplies run out so long as no new supplies are manufactured.
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