3R Gearbox bearing?

[elenitro]

I was on my way out for drive in the sun with the mrs yesterday and after 10 miles or so I changed down to 5th and a sort of knocking noise started but it went away if I changed back to 6th or 4th. I pulled over but when I put the car into neutral it came back but a lot louder. I had a look in the engine bay and the noise seemed to be coming from the gearbox and when I pressed the clutch in you could hear the gears slowing down and stopping rotating and so the noise stopped. I called the nice friendly RAC man and when he had a look he told me it was the gearbox bearing. Is this likely to be the case or is there something else that it could be?
If so is it possible to repair it or would it be cheaper to buy a new one (where is the best place to source a new one)?

Leon

[mgbond]

Just incase you don't know, the engine has to come out for the gear box.

However there is another method if you wish to go for it. You remove the chassis cross bar (as they do in the US) this way the gearbox comes out the side. You can then reweld the bar back in, get brackets made to bolt it in or (as I will do if I need the box out) use 2 bars that screw into each other so it starts smaller as to fit in place and then unwind until they wedge on the stubs that were left when the bar was removed,then lock it off with a nut.

Also maybe worth upgrading the box (Not sure whats involved but I think its bushes) also maybe worth considering shot peening it while its out for strength.

Bondy

[NobleGuy]

mgbond said:

Just incase you don't know, the engine has to come out for the gear box.

However there is another method if you wish to go for it. You remove the chassis cross bar (as they do in the US) this way the gearbox comes out the side. You can then reweld the bar back in, get brackets made to bolt it in or (as I will do if I need the box out) use 2 bars that screw into each other so it starts smaller as to fit in place and then unwind until they wedge on the stubs that were left when the bar was removed,then lock it off with a nut.

Also maybe worth upgrading the box (Not sure whats involved but I think its bushes) also maybe worth considering shot peening it while its out for strength.

Bondy

What he said. Should prove to be cheaper to remove gearbox, now and in the future.
Sorry to hear about that - never nice getting a major problem.

Edited by NobleGuy on Monday 28th July 11:36

[NickyTwoHats]

I think you need thegearboxman for your bits / new 'box. Gadget has the contact details

[saucyboy]

Hi mate,

Sorry to hear about your box. Mine went just over a year ago. I used the guys at BRUNTERS and they did a fantastic job at a good price. If you wont their details at all drop me an email and I send you their contact details.

James

[NobleGuy]

saucyboy said:

I used the guys at BRUNTERS and they did a fantastic job at a good price.

Did they use the side-out method?

[saucyboy]

No mate, i believe the engine was taken out. However it took no where near as long as quoted by some people and cost a lot less.

i was updated during the job (With photo's) and received some of the best service I have ever had. Oh and managed to get the M400 linkage at the same time, wahoo.

James

[gadgeroonie]

did the m400 linkage make much difference ?

[alex s]

gadgeroonie said:

did the m400 linkage make much difference ?

Mike, the M400 linkage is a massive step forward from the old one.

[saucyboy]

Gadge,

i agree with Alex mate. Nice and precise all the time making for good progress.

James

[daddysumo]

Had mine done at extortionate cost but still so worth it as now I dont miss gears any more, and the throw is shorter.

Steve