Discussion
Why are they so expensive now? Ive been browsing Ebay for weeks looking to see if there are any projects out there (I have an idea) but theyre wanting at least £300 for some non-runner and a runner is about £400! What happened to C90's being the peasant choice? I can buy a car cheaper.
Rob13 said:
Why are they so expensive now? Ive been browsing Ebay for weeks looking to see if there are any projects out there (I have an idea) but theyre wanting at least £300 for some non-runner and a runner is about £400! What happened to C90's being the peasant choice? I can buy a car cheaper.
yep its shocking i was going to buy one as a little plod along to the station, was shocked by the prices so bough an xj600 for 500 notes lolI have one. They are becoming a bit of a classic these days. They are ultra reliable with a decent turn of speed too, so are still desirable for things like learning 'the knowledge'. Additionally, you seem to get well over 100mpg.
A complete engine is £100, so that draws a line under the 2nd hand prices too. A lot of tatty ones are bought for the engine to be put into honda Monkey bike projects, and the rest of the bits will be sold for ok money on e-bay.
A complete engine is £100, so that draws a line under the 2nd hand prices too. A lot of tatty ones are bought for the engine to be put into honda Monkey bike projects, and the rest of the bits will be sold for ok money on e-bay.
Im not even sure why I want one, I guess it would be great for just getting about town on and enjoying a bimble on when Im not planning on going far.
Are they easy to work on? Ive got a bit of experience with mechanics but Ive never stripped an engine. I would say I could do electrics, sort brakes, check valve clearances etc but never had anything to do with cams or pistons before. Should I just get a tatty runner instead? I have my own plans for a colour scheme
Are they easy to work on? Ive got a bit of experience with mechanics but Ive never stripped an engine. I would say I could do electrics, sort brakes, check valve clearances etc but never had anything to do with cams or pistons before. Should I just get a tatty runner instead? I have my own plans for a colour scheme
Rob - the difference between a good and bad one is only a couple of hundred pound in purchase price. If you want to learn how things work, they are pretty damn simple to work on. If no, spend £500 and get a minter.
Mine is mechanically mint, but cosmetically a but tired - exactly what I wanted as I need it to be reliable for the station run, but not attract thieves when parked there all day.
The only thing that is a bit weird is their semi-auto 3 speed gearbox, but evething else is more like a motorbike than a scooter to be honest.
Parts are cheap as well. Main things to watch when buying is that they have no rot under the seat and on the front of the rear wheel arches. They have a pressed steel structure and if rusty there, they fail their MoT and then they are only good for breaking up for parts really. Other things to watch are that the wheels are straight and that the engine is not smokey or rattly once warm.
I'll keep the rust away and use mine until it dies, then probably just leave it at the back of the garage to restore to concours with my son when he is old enough to learn how mechanical things work.
Just watch this clip for how tough they are! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T_bsRsQNgEY
Mine is mechanically mint, but cosmetically a but tired - exactly what I wanted as I need it to be reliable for the station run, but not attract thieves when parked there all day.
The only thing that is a bit weird is their semi-auto 3 speed gearbox, but evething else is more like a motorbike than a scooter to be honest.
Parts are cheap as well. Main things to watch when buying is that they have no rot under the seat and on the front of the rear wheel arches. They have a pressed steel structure and if rusty there, they fail their MoT and then they are only good for breaking up for parts really. Other things to watch are that the wheels are straight and that the engine is not smokey or rattly once warm.
I'll keep the rust away and use mine until it dies, then probably just leave it at the back of the garage to restore to concours with my son when he is old enough to learn how mechanical things work.
Just watch this clip for how tough they are! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T_bsRsQNgEY
Edited by 3doorPete on Wednesday 7th January 17:23
Edited by 3doorPete on Wednesday 7th January 17:45
You can also tune the engines up to quite stupid horsepower numbers (relative) and retain reliability and reasonable economy. There are more after market tuning parts available for these engines than any other engine made. I have three engines in the workshop at the moment in various states of tune all based on Honda Cub 90 motors (not Chinese clones). A 106cc producing around 8 BHP, a 114cc producing around 12 BHP and a 124cc producing around 16 BHP.
Methane Bloke said:
You can also tune the engines up to quite stupid horsepower numbers (relative) and retain reliability and reasonable economy. There are more after market tuning parts available for these engines than any other engine made. I have three engines in the workshop at the moment in various states of tune all based on Honda Cub 90 motors (not Chinese clones). A 106cc producing around 8 BHP, a 114cc producing around 12 BHP and a 124cc producing around 16 BHP.
Sounds fantastic - are they going in Monkey bikes, ATC's, enduro's or back into a Cub??Where do you buy your tuning bits from in the main?
thanks for the heads up on that Pete, tired is what im looking for so I can get a spray job on one, plus maybe tinker with the engine to get it sweet again. I quite like the look of them with Knobbly tyres but not sure of their road manners if they have these fitted. Will keep an eye on Ebay for anything that comes up local. Could be ideal commuting transport in the summer.
3doorPete said:
Methane Bloke said:
You can also tune the engines up to quite stupid horsepower numbers (relative) and retain reliability and reasonable economy. There are more after market tuning parts available for these engines than any other engine made. I have three engines in the workshop at the moment in various states of tune all based on Honda Cub 90 motors (not Chinese clones). A 106cc producing around 8 BHP, a 114cc producing around 12 BHP and a 124cc producing around 16 BHP.
Sounds fantastic - are they going in Monkey bikes, ATC's, enduro's or back into a Cub??Where do you buy your tuning bits from in the main?
_g_ said:
They suffer from what I call 'cg syndrome' - everyone knows they are 'bargain' cheap reliable bikes, pushing the price up to the point they aren't nearly such an attractive option.
I think you have a good point there - CG's are silly money for very tatty bikes, where there are much better value alternatives.I would say C90's are not there yet. Even the best of the C90's is only £600 ish unless they are restored or zero mileage, but their price is ascending because -
a) they don't make them anymore
b) they are snapped up for enduro's, racing, parts and donors for other popular higher value projects like monkey bike conversions.
c) they are starting to get a 'classic' status and following.
d) you can break them up and easily make £250 from the parts - which as stated sell well compared to breaking up other mopeds/scooters.
A good usable one can be had for well under £450 and even though they are old, they are genuinely bullet proof compared to a £400 equivalent Jap, French or Italian 2 stroke scooter of similar value. Scooters hold their money - more so now in the credit crunch where a lot of people are looking for cheap alternatives. You really don't get much for £400 these days, so I can't really think of any more attractive alternatives.
Saying that - I think if they go much higher than they are now, they will start stepping toward your CG syndrome.
Edited by 3doorPete on Wednesday 7th January 20:50
This is a picture of a 124cc (bored and stroked cub 90) engine fitted with a Takegawa Super Head +R and 5 plate mainshaft mounted Super Clutch. The head features very large valves and ports, ball bearing camshaft with roller rockers, titanium valve caps etc., you get the picture. The engine also has a five speed close ratio box. Oil system is uprated with larger oil pump, paper element filter and oil cooler. Probably good for 17 BHP with a 28mm flat slide carb. Would probably make your step thru go about 80MPH.
Methane Bloke said:
This is a picture of a 124cc (bored and stroked cub 90) engine fitted with a Takegawa Super Head +R and 5 plate mainshaft mounted Super Clutch. The head features very large valves and ports, ball bearing camshaft with roller rockers, titanium valve caps etc., you get the picture. The engine also has a five speed close ratio box. Oil system is uprated with larger oil pump, paper element filter and oil cooler. Probably good for 17 BHP with a 28mm flat slide carb. Would probably make your step thru go about 80MPH.
Wouldn't look out of place on a GP grid. Out of curiosity - how much?provided that you get a bike which hasnt suffered rot, I cant see a downside to owning one. I could keep it in the garage for a number of years and still get a return on it in years to come? If this CG syndrome kicks in with them, then I can only see the values of them increasing.
The other alternative was to get an old dirt bike - DT125 or DR350 but they are quite buoyant too.
The other alternative was to get an old dirt bike - DT125 or DR350 but they are quite buoyant too.
3doorPete said:
What exhaust are you running with that engine? Looks great BTW.
The exhaust port is in the same position as the normal cub head so any exhaust will work. Standard cub exhausts are rather restictive though. A large bore front pipe, circa 1" with a reverse cone mega "silencer" works well and sounds er nice especially at 12K RPM.This isn't a 124, but a 106 that I just happen to have a sound clip of.
http://www.carwardraceeng.btinternet.co.uk/sound_c...
Sorry it's a Nokia multimedia file.
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