Discussion
Sounds about right. If you're running stiffer suspension, you'll get higer forces transmitted to the top suspension mounts, so whoever told you about fitting the strut brace knew what he was taling about.
Not much point stiffening up the car in one place, and just moving the sogginess around
Not much point stiffening up the car in one place, and just moving the sogginess around
james said:
Sounds about right. If you're running stiffer suspension, you'll get higer forces transmitted to the top suspension mounts, so whoever told you about fitting the strut brace knew what he was taling about.
Not much point stiffening up the car in one place, and just moving the sogginess around
Exactly James, the one time I ran with it slackened off (having forgotten to do it back up after doing some work on the car the front end just felt soggy got home opened bonnet - applied spanners to strut brace and all better again
Although I have not run one with standard dampers, so cannot comment on what effect it would have.
Did you just put one on the front? You might have found that it worked better with lighter springs (or a brace on the back too). If you stiffen the front up too much, you can easily end up understeering.
The secret of a good setup is to have the car properly balanced. Too stiff at one end or the other, and it'll be all over the place. I had this problem with one of my race cars. Whatever we did with the damper and geometry settings, it would understeer for England. I put some lighter springs on the front, and it was like a different car (and I mean different in a good way )
The secret of a good setup is to have the car properly balanced. Too stiff at one end or the other, and it'll be all over the place. I had this problem with one of my race cars. Whatever we did with the damper and geometry settings, it would understeer for England. I put some lighter springs on the front, and it was like a different car (and I mean different in a good way )
Experts have cautioned about removing the brace on the 928 and even driving it for a short while, due to the fact that it may loosen up body parts and potentially crack the windshield. I'd suspect the 944 could benefit from this too, because nobody wants to have the strut towers moving around. Probably a good addition to the car, however, if Porsche thought they needed one on the 944, after putting one on the 928 as standard equipment, you would think Porsche engineers would have made the move to do it as a factory addition.
Dogsharks
Dogsharks
james said:
Did you just put one on the front? You might have found that it worked better with lighter springs (or a brace on the back too). If you stiffen the front up too much, you can easily end up understeering.
The secret of a good setup is to have the car properly balanced. Too stiff at one end or the other, and it'll be all over the place. I had this problem with one of my race cars. Whatever we did with the damper and geometry settings, it would understeer for England. I put some lighter springs on the front, and it was like a different car (and I mean different in a good way )
Yes, it was just one on the front. An aftermarket Schnitzer jobby. As you say, it needs to be totally balanced.
I was just surprised that a roll bar could stiffen up the suspension so much - I thought it merely prevented the struts moving and therefore the suspension angles from changing.
As a general rule of thumb, if you're goingto use the car for what it was originally designed to do, you shouldn't really need to change things like suspension, brakes etc. However, if you're going to be using a road car on the track, you might want to stiffen it up a bit and make it stop better. Equally, if you uprate the engine, then suspension and brakes should be uprated to match.
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