Touch Up Paint For Red Ultimas

[USCANAM]

As I've read before in this forum, I'm not the first, nor will be the last, to drive off leaving the rear clips unlatched. It was a rude awakening upon reaching 55 mph to hear that plastic disolving noise from the rear, and this the day before a planned show.
The damage was more than the gel coat repair kit would cover, so painting would be necessary. Many times when the CanAm was sitting beside my wife's red C5, I thought the colors were very close, and this was confirmed when I took a piece of cutoff GRP to the paint store for matching.
We were able to repaint portions of the rear clip in a way that the slight mis-match in color does not show, however if I ever have to do it over again, or perhaps repaint another panel here's the formula I'd use.

Corvette 2000 Torch Red, then add a few dabs of blue to slightly darken the color. The amount of dabs will be up to the dabber!!

Buffed up gel coat looks great, but one of the worries I had was a major repair to a panel. This helps a bit.
Jack

[mkoch1]

I took a small piece of my dash (blue) to a local auto paint supply house and they used a little device to take a color reading and them mixed up a pint of paint. This may be a little more accurate than trying to make another red match the current red.

mark

[USCANAM]

mkoch1 said:

I took a small piece of my dash (blue) to a local auto paint supply house and they used a little device to take a color reading and them mixed up a pint of paint. This may be a little more accurate than trying to make another red match the current red. mark

Mark
That was probably the best way to go with the spectrometer. When I put a small piece of fiberglass from the CanAm against the C5, you've of bet it was a match, but once it was sprayed, it was a shade lighter.
The best way for a perfect match is to test spray a 1 square foot piece of metal, then hold it up against the car for testing. Unfortunately, the shop I deal with is small, and doesn't have the electronic stuff.
However, if I have to retouch something in the future, I know it'll match very well, until this can of paint runs out.
BTW, red is about the most expensive color you can buy now.
Jack

[bigmack]

Jack,
That must have been one hell of an air-brake! I've had to make this repair twice to my car when the rear panel fell back with the car on jackstands. Keep those gas struts attached! Also a few builders have reinforced the strut attachment point with some aluminum sheet riveted to the fiberglass. I haven't done this, but I've got a few photos if you want them. I can sympothize with you. Glad you got things worked out. I've just finished the "Tune-Up" on the wiring harness. I beefed up the hell out of it. Going to try and test it out this weekend once the wife lets me out of the house
Cheers!
-Mack

[USCANAM]

Mack
I re-enforced the strut attach points with 1/8" aluminum sandwiched on both side of the plastic, then riveted. I was so pissed off (embarrassed) that I didn't do a photo shoot of the repairs.
I also have an American source for the gas struts.
Glad the schematic was some help in the wire mods. Hope this cures the burning wires thing!!
Jack

[Steve_D]

USCANAM said:

Mack I re-enforced the strut attach points with 1/8" aluminum sandwiched on both side of the plastic, then riveted. I was so pissed off (embarrassed) that I didn't do a photo shoot of the repairs. Jack

Jack
Did the strut mounts pull out of the fibreglass?
If they did then others (me) should do this mod in preparation for making the same error of judgement.

I've heard this mod talked about before but at that time thought it was the individual thinking that it just felt a bit flimsy and could do with beefing up.

Steve

[USCANAM]

[/quote]


Jack
Did the strut mounts pull out of the fibreglass?
[/quote]

Sure did !! Had a nice hole the size of the large washers that are supplied with the gas struts. Even the gas struts were pulled loose from the ball joints. Was not able to find one of them on the highway.
The plates I used were 2"x3". Wouldn't hurt to use a little epoxy too, plus the rivets.
My struts are attached a little farther down then where the factory mopunted them to allow the rear clip to open more.
Jack

[USCANAM]

Ted
Good to see you getting more involved by responding to posts on this forum.
Since I had large holes where the struts attached to the rear lid, it was necessary to install the plates. However, the new gas struts I purchased here in the US are very similar in size to the factory ones and will break at the ball joints if highly stressed.
Thanks again for the input.
BTW,
One of the factory GT40's had it's rear lid open at Run and Gun. Damage was limited to bent hinges as the deck does not touch the ground in that application.

Jack

[Steve_D]

Thanks Ted
I will go devote my attention to designing a safety latch in the same style as that found on a production car bonnet (hood).
Steve

[Ultimasimon]

Steve_D said:

Thanks Ted I will go devote my attention to designing a safety latch in the same style as that found on a production car bonnet (hood). Steve

I would be very interested in this Steve. I beleieve that the factory is also in the design stages of the new catches.

I personally would also recommend putting a pair of alarm door switches (pin switch) on the top of the side-grill housings, which will mate with the rear clip when it is closed (one either side). These are looped through a relay with a tell-tale on the dashboard. The changeover relay contacts could then run through the low voltage side of the coil so that the ignition is cut immediately if the rear clip lifts on either side. Also you cannot start the car if either catch is open, and you have a simple LED to tell you why. The cost of this simple system was less than £5 including the chrome bezel high intensity LED's.

If one catch should fail, this system will stop you before it's too late, as once the wind gets under the rear clip it's all over if you are moving at speed.

The chances of forgetting to close the rear clip or catch failures are minimal, but the cost of rectification is not.