Discussion
In general the best all round garden weedkiller is Glyphosate. It will kill pretty much every thing and will biodegrade on contact with soil. This means anything else you plant won't get killed off. Also it gets translocated to the roots and kills them too so the plant doesn't come back again two weeks later.
Astacus said:
In general the best all round garden weedkiller is Glyphosate. It will kill pretty much every thing and will biodegrade on contact with soil. This means anything else you plant won't get killed off. Also it gets translocated to the roots and kills them too so the plant doesn't come back again two weeks later.
Is it available from all good stores?f13ldy said:
Astacus said:
In general the best all round garden weedkiller is Glyphosate. It will kill pretty much every thing and will biodegrade on contact with soil. This means anything else you plant won't get killed off. Also it gets translocated to the roots and kills them too so the plant doesn't come back again two weeks later.
Is it available from all good stores?Lots of different trade names, check th edetails on the pack, they have to say what the active ingrefient is
Glyphosate is a total non-residual weedkiller. In short, it kills everything but as stated does not stay to deal with any successive growth.
If you want something to stay active in the soil and bump off new seedlings as well, look for a total residual product - often called 'Path and Drive' or 'Hard Surface' weedkillers.
If you want something to stay active in the soil and bump off new seedlings as well, look for a total residual product - often called 'Path and Drive' or 'Hard Surface' weedkillers.
Glysophate will be your best bet. Tradenames; Roundup and Gallup are generally preferred.
http://www.progreen.co.uk/index.php?c=55
If you have any good sized weeds best to run a grass cutter over them and wait for new shoots to start growing, then knock it all down with roundup. Big weeds can take a bit to die. Dont do it before it rains, takes about 3 to 4 hours to absorb properly, and watch any drift. Mrs Muggins' prize geraniums will be just as affected as the weeds you want to kill! Oh, and mix up a good strong dilution!
http://www.progreen.co.uk/index.php?c=55
If you have any good sized weeds best to run a grass cutter over them and wait for new shoots to start growing, then knock it all down with roundup. Big weeds can take a bit to die. Dont do it before it rains, takes about 3 to 4 hours to absorb properly, and watch any drift. Mrs Muggins' prize geraniums will be just as affected as the weeds you want to kill! Oh, and mix up a good strong dilution!
I'm trying to remember the name of the stuff, it's something like "tric" (not sure if is banned now) but put some of it down and nothing will grow there for a years. If you can't find that you can get some granualar stuff to put down, path clear type stuff.
Glyposate previously mentioned will only kill stuff that is already growing (ie not the seeds that are yet to sprout), although it will go down to the roots unlike some weedkillers which just kill the bits they touch.
Agricultural stores are the place to get stuff like this
Glyposate previously mentioned will only kill stuff that is already growing (ie not the seeds that are yet to sprout), although it will go down to the roots unlike some weedkillers which just kill the bits they touch.
Agricultural stores are the place to get stuff like this
AndyAudi said:
Agricultural stores are the place to get stuff like this
Technically no, unless you have the appropriate qualifications. If you're Joe Punter, you're supposed to go to a garden centre. Pesticides for agrochemical use are much more concentrated and can be much more toxic (different active ingredients) - ie not idiot-proof!Simpo Two said:
AndyAudi said:
Agricultural stores are the place to get stuff like this
Technically no, unless you have the appropriate qualifications. If you're Joe Punter, you're supposed to go to a garden centre. Pesticides for agrochemical use are much more concentrated and can be much more toxic (different active ingredients) - ie not idiot-proof!I think what Simpo means is that if you buy Roundup from a trade supplier it will be for professional use and be much stronger- hence requiring certificates (spray license P1 and P5/6) whereas the stuff in the garden centre is much watered down though still lethal!! Recommend wearing rubber gloves (not marigolds!), gum boots, eye protection and be fully clothed (seen idiots do it in shorts before!). To be quite honest unless the surface is a hard one like a drive or paving then it is easier and better to weed them out. My personal favorite is to strim the baards into submission on hard surfaces and hoe my beds and borders.
eldar said:
Simpo Two said:
AndyAudi said:
Agricultural stores are the place to get stuff like this
Technically no, unless you have the appropriate qualifications. If you're Joe Punter, you're supposed to go to a garden centre. Pesticides for agrochemical use are much more concentrated and can be much more toxic (different active ingredients) - ie not idiot-proof!racing green said:
I think what Simpo means is that if you buy Roundup from a trade supplier it will be for professional use and be much stronger- hence requiring certificates (spray license P1 and P5/6) whereas the stuff in the garden centre is much watered down though still lethal!! Recommend wearing rubber gloves (not marigolds!), gum boots, eye protection and be fully clothed (seen idiots do it in shorts before!). To be quite honest unless the surface is a hard one like a drive or paving then it is easier and better to weed them out. My personal favorite is to strim the baards into submission on hard surfaces and hoe my beds and borders.
Nearly... it's PA1 and PA6 (for knapsack application). We would not supply ag product to a home and garden user though.The other poster mentioned Trik [sic] which he rightly said is a quite persistent residual, though Chikara seems to be very popular now. Neither of which are suitable for this situation IIRC as H&G isn't a label use AFAIK.
eldar said:
True, but the agricultural stuff is about 20% of the shed prices, and can be mixed a little stronger (I mean a little, 10%) and works far better. You do need to be cautions and sensible.
I did a comparison once - genuine Roundup for the garden was £15/litre @ 72g/l strength IIRC. Generic glyphosate for ag use at the time was £40 for 20 litres - but it was 360g/l...I have used a strong mix of sodium chlorate under tarmac and gravel as it kills it, and stops any new seed germinating. I think it sits in the soil, so nothing wilm drow. I still use it in a sprayer for the cobbles on my drive, and at the foot of walls to stop anything growing in the gap.
Escort2dr said:
Nearly... it's PA1 and PA6 (for knapsack application). We would not supply ag product to a home and garden user though.
The other poster mentioned Trik [sic] which he rightly said is a quite persistent residual, though Chikara seems to be very popular now. Neither of which are suitable for this situation IIRC as H&G isn't a label use AFAIK.
Cant it still be used as an off label application though? The other poster mentioned Trik [sic] which he rightly said is a quite persistent residual, though Chikara seems to be very popular now. Neither of which are suitable for this situation IIRC as H&G isn't a label use AFAIK.
Just checked and Trik is revoked anyway.
Chikara is approved for hard surfaces and non-cropped areas. I can supply this to anyone who has a farm holding number.
If, by off-label, you mean there is a SOLA... no, there aren't any for Chikara.
There are some sodium chlorate products still approved, but they are due to be revoked very shortly (weeks).
Chikara is approved for hard surfaces and non-cropped areas. I can supply this to anyone who has a farm holding number.
If, by off-label, you mean there is a SOLA... no, there aren't any for Chikara.
There are some sodium chlorate products still approved, but they are due to be revoked very shortly (weeks).
Edited by Escort2dr on Saturday 17th April 13:28
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