SLR R400 K/D advice
Discussion
I am contemplating upgrading to a really quick 7 like a SLR / R400 from my original 1.6 Superlight as I am well and truly into the arena of diminishing returns now; having got it into tip top condition. To tune it would take away from the Superlight specification and not add to the value.
I am pretty au fait with the K series 7’s but haven’t really paid much attention to the newer Ford engined cars, as they were out of my price range.
So what do I get? I am definitely looking for a track orientated spec, so want the bigger brakes, 6 speed gearbox, LSD and wide track suspension short it must be an R spec 7. I know with the higher powered K series the accepted wisdom is it must be dry sumped, but is that the case with Duratec engined 7’s (and SIgma engined 7’s; although I think they only go up to 152 bhp)?
Are dry sump equipped cars any easier to check the oil level on? The wet sumped K Series is a difficult to check when the oil is new because it is so clear i.e. all the time. Also, it is difficult to get a consistent reading even when following the instructions to the letter. I even bought a PGM dip stick which is only marginally better.
Is there anything to be aware of with the higher powered Duratec engined R spec 7’s?
I am pretty au fait with the K series 7’s but haven’t really paid much attention to the newer Ford engined cars, as they were out of my price range.
So what do I get? I am definitely looking for a track orientated spec, so want the bigger brakes, 6 speed gearbox, LSD and wide track suspension short it must be an R spec 7. I know with the higher powered K series the accepted wisdom is it must be dry sumped, but is that the case with Duratec engined 7’s (and SIgma engined 7’s; although I think they only go up to 152 bhp)?
Are dry sump equipped cars any easier to check the oil level on? The wet sumped K Series is a difficult to check when the oil is new because it is so clear i.e. all the time. Also, it is difficult to get a consistent reading even when following the instructions to the letter. I even bought a PGM dip stick which is only marginally better.
Is there anything to be aware of with the higher powered Duratec engined R spec 7’s?
andy97 said:
The Duratec engines are meant to be very sensitive to oil level. Let it run a bit low and it will run a bearing. I think it's something to do with the shallow sump design.
Maybe an Accusump is a decent compromise??
If I am going to go down the Duratec route it will be with a dry dumped equipped 7.Maybe an Accusump is a decent compromise??
REALIST123 said:
I have a '15 R400D and would endorse everything DCL says.
As far as checking oil level is concerned, I check mine soon after stopping and the level, with about 7L in, will be just over the baffle as DCL says. Leave it all to cool and it'll be about 10mm below the baffle.
I find that I suck and drain out about 6.75L during an oil/filter change. I change the oil every year, 1500 miles or so which will include 2 or 3 TDs. Never needed to add any oil between changes.
The engine might be heavier and a bit less revvy than the K but I find it's great on road and track, solid and easy to service etc.
That is reassuring. Thank you.As far as checking oil level is concerned, I check mine soon after stopping and the level, with about 7L in, will be just over the baffle as DCL says. Leave it all to cool and it'll be about 10mm below the baffle.
I find that I suck and drain out about 6.75L during an oil/filter change. I change the oil every year, 1500 miles or so which will include 2 or 3 TDs. Never needed to add any oil between changes.
The engine might be heavier and a bit less revvy than the K but I find it's great on road and track, solid and easy to service etc.
Out of interest what species your engine? The reason I ask is that the R400 I was looking at is apparently rated at 210bhp not 220 bhp.
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