New owner - Compression test ?'s

[djwhittaker14]

Hi everyone,

I am now the happy owner of a lightly used R400D 2007.

Got the car home today after a nice drive and Oil P and Water temp all looks stable. I am looking to do a compression test but before I dive in just want to know the best way to cut fuel off from the engine (have read about using the inertia switch but when pressed earlier couldn't see a way to reset it?) and whether or not I should remove the low tension side from the coil plugs beforehand as well.

Only other I thing noticed on inspection was the coolant is well above the Max fill line in the expansion bottle (is this an issue should I remove some?) and has a light brown tinge to it feels fairly silky (no bubbles of milkyness {probably not a word}).

The breather tank from the back of the cam cover also has a small amount of green liquid in it, I am assuming this is the normal colour I should expect? I will keep an eye on the level over the next few miles.

Any help greatly appreciated and if anyone is in the Reading area that can show me the ins and outs of the car that would be awesome.

[djwhittaker14]

Thanks for that, so just remove the wiring loom plug from the bottom of the switch?

Car has only done 3800 miles. Was off the road for a 9 year period between 2009-2018. Had a recommissioning service then by Williams in Bristol post that has done another 1000 miles to take it to the 3800 figure.

[djwhittaker14]

Sorry forgot to answer the other. It’s a raceline branded wet sump looking through the service receipts it does look like the coolant could be due a change. I assume this is fairly simple matter of draining the rad and tank then refilling with the correct amount in accordance with the handbook?

[djwhittaker14]

Brake fluid was changed. I will do the coolant next week (comma g30 or the motul stuff seems to be the preferred liquid) looking through the receipts and at the car it appears to have the triple radiator?? I will double check again tomorrow. It also appears to have green witness marks on most of the bolts so will double check them. Thanks for the help much appreciated

[djwhittaker14]

No real reason as Ts and Ps for the fluids look good but I bought the kit and fancy a go at it. Will give me an idea how closely matched the cylinders are and a small insight into engine condition. I would go for a leak down test but don’t have that kit available.

[djwhittaker14]

Test result were all good. All cylinders in between 220-230psi (after 4 revolutions) No.2 the highest No.1 lowest. If anyone is going to do the same thing don’t by the Draper tester as it wasn’t great and the pressure release occasionally failed resulting in a lot of jumping in and out of the car. Thanks for the tip on removing the inertia switch plug worked a treat. Coolant arrives tomorrow so that is the next job. Any other tips on changing that would be great.

[djwhittaker14]

I've checked both it appears to be higher when hot and slightly lower when cold although above the max line in both cases. I did check the bleed bolt on the radiator for any air but fluid came out straight away. I've read about disconnecting the heater T-Piece when replacing the coolant, some salt its worth while others that any air will work its way out of the heater?? I am assuming it is the heater T piece that the cable for the heater controls by the right knee is connected to?

[djwhittaker14]

Hopefully this works.

[djwhittaker14]

Great thanks for that will have a crack tomorrow