The 'S' problems keep arising..
Discussion
So after the big 120+ overheating issue, i visited vehicle electrics they diagnosis was that 'otter switch' needed replacing so ordered one & a thermostat (for peace of mind) off Neil at ML Performance.
Fitted it & automatic fan still didn't kick in, engine overheating.. same problem again coolant spitting out of the expansion tank even with the manual override fan on soon as i start the car up!
Visited a recommended mechanic who is red hot on ford capri's, granadas etc & tunes race cars up for a living which sounded promising.. I decided to just have a full service whilst i left it there (bad thing to do it seems)
Replaced the fuel filter, oil filter, spark plugs, water pump & battery. Also had the 'Evans Waterless Coolant Conversion' done to eliminate the boilover & hopefully aid a lil in keeping things abit cooler.
Gave it a test run, car was not starting up first time like it used to.. made an awful rattling sound when it did, driving it round the block it seemed to just cut out when dropping revs going into 1st gear, strange sound when foot was down on the pedal. Also noticed the temperature gage was not working at all neither was the oil pressure gage (well it seemed to just move from empty when i accelerated then go back down?)
Popped the hood, started car up again, left it running.. alot of white smoke about, a leak somewhere & me feeling abit demoralised. Mechanic said the something something timing needed to be adjusted so i left it there to be done on tuesday... *Cliffhanger*
Fitted it & automatic fan still didn't kick in, engine overheating.. same problem again coolant spitting out of the expansion tank even with the manual override fan on soon as i start the car up!
Visited a recommended mechanic who is red hot on ford capri's, granadas etc & tunes race cars up for a living which sounded promising.. I decided to just have a full service whilst i left it there (bad thing to do it seems)
Replaced the fuel filter, oil filter, spark plugs, water pump & battery. Also had the 'Evans Waterless Coolant Conversion' done to eliminate the boilover & hopefully aid a lil in keeping things abit cooler.
Gave it a test run, car was not starting up first time like it used to.. made an awful rattling sound when it did, driving it round the block it seemed to just cut out when dropping revs going into 1st gear, strange sound when foot was down on the pedal. Also noticed the temperature gage was not working at all neither was the oil pressure gage (well it seemed to just move from empty when i accelerated then go back down?)
Popped the hood, started car up again, left it running.. alot of white smoke about, a leak somewhere & me feeling abit demoralised. Mechanic said the something something timing needed to be adjusted so i left it there to be done on tuesday... *Cliffhanger*
Yeah certainly got something wrong I just hope im not being charged for his errors!
Even with the new otter switch the auto fan did not kick in, he mentioned something about it working when the two wires were put together or something along those lines. Did replace a fuse few weeks ago but as far as I know none have blown (will remind him to check when I go back down Tuesday along with the other things you pointed out, thank you)
As for the Evans coolant I may have wasted my money there then if all does not bode well
thought it might of helped keep the engine a lil cooler
Even with the new otter switch the auto fan did not kick in, he mentioned something about it working when the two wires were put together or something along those lines. Did replace a fuse few weeks ago but as far as I know none have blown (will remind him to check when I go back down Tuesday along with the other things you pointed out, thank you)
As for the Evans coolant I may have wasted my money there then if all does not bode well
thought it might of helped keep the engine a lil coolerThanks for the replys guys believe me I feel the same.. Very annoyed putting my faith in a mechanic who has just created more problems and still not cured the overheating.
@tvrgit I can't test it myself as the car is at his garage left there (till he amends his mistakes) but the fan does work when the two wires are joined up at the switch he told me
@spathodus77 the car was already overheating before he worked on it, and the cabin heater gets hot yeah which im pretty sure means no air pockets
As for the coolant it was never to cure the overheating it was running low from the bpilovet and i didnt jnow which coolant had been ysed to top it back up. I wanted the mechanic to fix the overheating and a new thermostat, waterpump, otter switch later.. And it still hasent. hopefully Tuesday its a different story..
If I lived closer or my car would have made it in one piece i would of gladly got it to one of you guys to take a look at it.
Thanks for your help again tho, appreciate it
@tvrgit I can't test it myself as the car is at his garage left there (till he amends his mistakes) but the fan does work when the two wires are joined up at the switch he told me
@spathodus77 the car was already overheating before he worked on it, and the cabin heater gets hot yeah which im pretty sure means no air pockets
As for the coolant it was never to cure the overheating it was running low from the bpilovet and i didnt jnow which coolant had been ysed to top it back up. I wanted the mechanic to fix the overheating and a new thermostat, waterpump, otter switch later.. And it still hasent. hopefully Tuesday its a different story..
If I lived closer or my car would have made it in one piece i would of gladly got it to one of you guys to take a look at it.
Thanks for your help again tho, appreciate it
Edited by greyhulk on Sunday 30th August 13:41
Kitchski said:
Was in the process of searching for something else and found this thread. What was the cause of the issue in the end?
Regards all the negative comments on Evans Waterless Coolant, I've only seen one that I'd agree with (the one where it was stated Evans won't fix a broken cooling system, it's designed for one that works in the first place - this is completely true).
My S runs Waterless Coolant, and it's one of the best things I've done to it. Blue anti-freeze is rated for two years, this stuff lasts the life of the engine. My cooling system doesn't pressurise any more, meaning I can switch the caps around and use two tanks' worth of coolant - extended cooling capacity is the result. There's no stress on the hoses, the pipes, the brittle alloy housings and manifolds either. There's none of the orange gunk you normally find in a Cologne, as the pig iron slowly dissolves into the water
I have no issue with anybody saying it's not for them, or they think the benefits don't equate to the initial cost etc, but saying normal coolant is better is just plain wrong. It's better at transferring heat, yes. That's the one thing water is better at, yet this benefit is completely dwarfed by the ability to move the limit of coolant operation much further away from the engine's normal operating temperature. By design, it wants to operate at 90 degrees C, or so. By nature, it wants to boil at 100 degrees C. We can bump that figure a bit higher by pressurising it, or we can fit a coolant that works at up to twice the temperature of what the engine wants to run at. As a result, the engine runs exactly as it did before. Any talk of engines running much hotter (like 20 degrees or so) than with normal coolant is just b
ks, frankly.
I was interested to see if you managed to resolve the issues OP, but if you spent a lot of money fitting EWC to your S, don't waste the money by chucking water back in. Evans isn't the cause of your problem, and once it's up and running properly, it'll be all the better for having it in there.
Anyway, as you all were
Hi Kitchski, im with you on that one, the evans waterless coolant was the best thing i done to the S.. Yes it wasn't just a lack of coolant, faulty thermostat or waterpump that caused the overheating, the culprit was the rad! Once i got it recored & fitted a kenlowe 14" jetboost fan my temperature stays at 80-90 degree's had no problems since.Regards all the negative comments on Evans Waterless Coolant, I've only seen one that I'd agree with (the one where it was stated Evans won't fix a broken cooling system, it's designed for one that works in the first place - this is completely true).
My S runs Waterless Coolant, and it's one of the best things I've done to it. Blue anti-freeze is rated for two years, this stuff lasts the life of the engine. My cooling system doesn't pressurise any more, meaning I can switch the caps around and use two tanks' worth of coolant - extended cooling capacity is the result. There's no stress on the hoses, the pipes, the brittle alloy housings and manifolds either. There's none of the orange gunk you normally find in a Cologne, as the pig iron slowly dissolves into the water
I have no issue with anybody saying it's not for them, or they think the benefits don't equate to the initial cost etc, but saying normal coolant is better is just plain wrong. It's better at transferring heat, yes. That's the one thing water is better at, yet this benefit is completely dwarfed by the ability to move the limit of coolant operation much further away from the engine's normal operating temperature. By design, it wants to operate at 90 degrees C, or so. By nature, it wants to boil at 100 degrees C. We can bump that figure a bit higher by pressurising it, or we can fit a coolant that works at up to twice the temperature of what the engine wants to run at. As a result, the engine runs exactly as it did before. Any talk of engines running much hotter (like 20 degrees or so) than with normal coolant is just b
ks, frankly.I was interested to see if you managed to resolve the issues OP, but if you spent a lot of money fitting EWC to your S, don't waste the money by chucking water back in. Evans isn't the cause of your problem, and once it's up and running properly, it'll be all the better for having it in there.
Anyway, as you all were
My issue now is the occasional stalling when idling, now the coil was on side of plenum & when the car was overheating all this heat may have affected this & the ignition module or it may or may not be down to me not using the car very much? Or something to do with the fuel pump (air flow meter has all been checked out, no air intake leaks either, was all sorted out by very good mechanic Adrian Venn recommended)
So i may have a failing ignition module/coil, the car will NOT start up with the turn of a key unless theres some throttle applied & can stall unexpectedly during operation & will not start again for a good 5minutes (happened few weeks ago for the first time in awhile & backfired.. again may have been lack of use who knows)
Edited by greyhulk on Monday 25th April 17:23
I was contemplating about an alloy one & in the end the price for a recore werent too far off (£260 :rolleyes) they did do a modern recore which added more cores to the rad which i imagine can only be beneficial.
Ive comfortably done 70mph on motorway constant for a good 40minutes & temperature barely reached 90degree's.
Read a few things about the alloy ones that put me off, odd weld leak etc so i just stayed clear although they do look nice & think keep even cooler.
I cant reccomend the kenlowe 14" jetboost fan enough, its superb, (noisy on jet-boost mode tho, which mine is on when it auto kicks in) think it auto kicks into jetboost if temperature goes over 90 on standard setting.
I recently changed the very fine/blocked up mesh from my bonnet grill with a bigger mesh (stainless steel of course) was very thick & hard to work with as it didnt bend much but eventually got it all fitted in, another option of keeping engine cooler would be getting exhaust manifold wrapped.. im considering this myself as its alot cheaper than getting stainless (which just look nice) & ceramic coating was coming in at £700+
Original
After
Ive comfortably done 70mph on motorway constant for a good 40minutes & temperature barely reached 90degree's.
Read a few things about the alloy ones that put me off, odd weld leak etc so i just stayed clear although they do look nice & think keep even cooler.
I cant reccomend the kenlowe 14" jetboost fan enough, its superb, (noisy on jet-boost mode tho, which mine is on when it auto kicks in) think it auto kicks into jetboost if temperature goes over 90 on standard setting.
I recently changed the very fine/blocked up mesh from my bonnet grill with a bigger mesh (stainless steel of course) was very thick & hard to work with as it didnt bend much but eventually got it all fitted in, another option of keeping engine cooler would be getting exhaust manifold wrapped.. im considering this myself as its alot cheaper than getting stainless (which just look nice) & ceramic coating was coming in at £700+
Original
After
GreenV8S said:
Wrapping the exhaust cut the under-bonnet temperatures significantly on mine, and also muted engine noise noticeably under load. It's only a temporary fix though because the thermal wrap will degrade and gradually fall apart in my experience, even if you spray it with the recommended coating and wire wrap the whole thing to limit the size of piece that can come loose. Also don't be alarmed if it smokes like mad for a few minutes the first time you're sat in traffic.
I know you can pay a lot for ceramic coating and no doubt the expensive professional stuff has its advantages, but it's possible to buy ceramic paint and apply it yourself. It's relatively expensive paint but you don't need much of it - far less than 700 quids worth.
Yeah I'd imagine over time it degrades, I didn't know you could get hold of the ceramic paint, would be great for keeping exhaust cooler. Will look into itI know you can pay a lot for ceramic coating and no doubt the expensive professional stuff has its advantages, but it's possible to buy ceramic paint and apply it yourself. It's relatively expensive paint but you don't need much of it - far less than 700 quids worth.
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