Battery relocation..

Battery relocation..

Author
Discussion

tel595

Original Poster:

684 posts

173 months

Thursday 1st October 2015
quotequote all
Wanting to move the battery on my S3c to the boot to give more room up front and get rid of the flimsy battery tray. Anybody got any tips? I've searched the forum but either I'm doing it wrong or nothing has been mentioned about it before.. Thinking about siting it behind the offside rear wheel.

tel595

Original Poster:

684 posts

173 months

Thursday 1st October 2015
quotequote all
v8s4me said:
What ever method you decide on to mount the battery in your boot make sure it can't rub or vibrate against the inner surface of the GF or it will, at best, cause the paint to craze or worse, rub a hole in the body. thumbup
Cheers Joe,
I'll make up a suitable tray I think.. I believe the V8S battery is originally in the boot? If so, is it the near or offside?

tel595

Original Poster:

684 posts

173 months

Thursday 1st October 2015
quotequote all
Alan461 said:
Hi Tel,
finding something structural to fix the battery tray to was interesting.
Fixed it to the grp behind the rubber bumper and the wheel arch



Needs better cables but works ok.
That's neat Alan. Good call about fixing it under the rubber bumper moulding. I've not fitted mine yet so I'll do some measuring tomorrow.. smile

tel595

Original Poster:

684 posts

173 months

Thursday 1st October 2015
quotequote all
Scoobimax said:
Alan's engine bay is very sparse by comparison to when it came out of Blackpool!!

Remember looking under Alans bonnet and wondering what's missing?? The 2 main things I decided I would do to my S after looking at the cars on the Eurotour, was bonnet hinge and battery relocation.. Both these jobs have been done on Alans car, Mikes done the same as well I believe...

tel595

Original Poster:

684 posts

173 months

Thursday 1st October 2015
quotequote all
magpies said:
not as tidy as I'd like but plenty of time to sort out
Cheers Mick.. Did you take an earth lead back to the main earth point under bonnet too?

tel595

Original Poster:

684 posts

173 months

Saturday 3rd October 2015
quotequote all
phillpot said:
Mine sits on a wooden plinth bolted into the o/s boot well. used a few cardboard templates to make, there's not a single straight edge anywhere in that area.

A ratchet strap built into the plinth secures it nicely.

I have an isolator switch and 250 amp fuse at the positive terminal.

Live cable runs across boot (P clips on targa hold down bolts) over n/s wheel arch and through the sill to front of the car.

Earth cable goes to a stud bolted into the bodywork with a short lead the other (out) side to the chassis.

This saves a. trying to seal a cable going through the boot, and
b. trying to get a single nut and bolt tight enough to get a good connection whilst tightening onto fibreglass.



Plinth and cover box (6mm ply) are covered in carpet to near as damn it match boot carpet.


Space saver and a 5 litre fuel can on the n/s balance out the weight, not that for one second, do I think it would be noticeable in the handling!


If I ever work out how to do photo's with "Windows 10" you may get a picture irked
Cheers Mike.. I took a more detailed look yesterday and you're right, there isn't a nice straight edge to work to.! I'm with you on the weight distribution, can't see that it will make any difference other than give me more grip on the offside rear wheel.. rolleyes
Thought about using welding type cable or similar duty so as not to lose too much current.
Good call about the earth cable bolt through the rear body, might have to poach that idea too.!
Where about does your live cable enter the engine bay, does it pass through a hole in the bulkhead?
I'm also going to tackle the bonnet hing modification too, so any detail on that would be appreciated (as long as any current copyright isn't breached).! wink

tel595

Original Poster:

684 posts

173 months

Sunday 4th October 2015
quotequote all

Wide open hinges were sort of "made as you go" so I have no drawings or measurements but could come up with a photo or two if it helps?
[/quote]

Any photos would be great help Mike. I can work out the dimensions, just fishing for ideas at the moment.. Thanks.

tel595

Original Poster:

684 posts

173 months

Sunday 4th October 2015
quotequote all
Mr Plow said:
Use a racing battery, a lot smaller and lighter.

Liam
Just bought a new 'full size' jobby Liam... I looked at the small race type batteries at Race Retro earlier this year, but was told they weren't legal on road cars..??

tel595

Original Poster:

684 posts

173 months

Sunday 4th October 2015
quotequote all
phillpot said:
tel595 said:
Where about does your live cable enter the engine bay, does it pass through a hole in the bulkhead?
It does Terry, I used a cable gland to get a water tight seal.







Wide open hinges were sort of "made as you go" so I have no drawings or measurements but could come up with a photo or two if it helps?
Another question.. 50mm or 70mm csa cable? cheers, T


tel595

Original Poster:

684 posts

173 months

Monday 5th October 2015
quotequote all
Cheers bough...

tel595

Original Poster:

684 posts

173 months

Tuesday 6th October 2015
quotequote all
phillpot said:
Probably just as important as cable size is to get the connections properly crimped or soldered on, a poor joint will create equally as much resistance as a thin cable scratchchin


This could be the way to go?


I can see no need for double insulated unless you intend running rear to front under the car, zip tied to the chassis?
Yep, I agree with the connections/terminals Mike. I'll make sure they're soldered on correctly as I think that's the best way. I'm going to try and run it inside the car as similar to your suggestion as possible, it's pretty straightforward and It's better protected in the car. I've got no interior in at the moment so it's the ideal opportunity.. Getting the cables tomorrow so I'll let you now how I get on.. biggrin

tel595

Original Poster:

684 posts

173 months

Tuesday 6th October 2015
quotequote all
Great woodworking skills Mike. That's a nice neat job..

Any pics of the bonnet hinge mods? I'd like to do a bit of marking out before I take the bonnet off. Probably won't make a great deal of difference..

tel595

Original Poster:

684 posts

173 months

Thursday 8th October 2015
quotequote all
All very helpful chaps, I'll be tackling this little job over the next few days and will keep you posted.. biggrin

Not sure what the TVR boys used to get up to at the factory, but on removing the boot carpet (which I believe was original) I found this lovely artwork.... scratchchin Anyone else found similar??


tel595

Original Poster:

684 posts

173 months

Sunday 11th October 2015
quotequote all
phillpot said:
tel595 said:
Any pics of the bonnet hinge mods?
Not brilliant but found these in the "library" .....


All done with no cutting or welding of the chassis









Did this require cutting away the lower valance of the bonnet Mike? I'm trying to work out if it can be done without hacking a lump out of it... confused

tel595

Original Poster:

684 posts

173 months

Sunday 11th October 2015
quotequote all
phillpot said:
It did yes, would take come clever dicky "go up and forward" type hinges to avoid chopping a lump out of the valance I would think?
Something like a BMW E30 system, which pops forward slightly then lifts.? http://youtu.be/PiVU0fR8vlA

Think I'll get the jigsaw... rolleyes