Bird on a wire - the rewire begins
Discussion
To start with I intend to use as much of the original wiring as possible. I'm using CBS module relay and fuse boxes and adding extra fuses and relays. Also checking the existing terminals and rete ruminating where necessary. This is also being done on a tightish budget. I am open to suggestions so fire away, I may or may not use your input.
The car has never had a steering wheel horn push,used a dash mounted switch. Is there a way of converting? I've seen rally and race cars with long curly leads but they look a bit messy for a road car unless it can be hidden. After inspecting the column switch plug connectors I found some signs of overheated plastic so I've dismantled and individually connected the wires. The female bullet connectors are an odd size.
Penelope Stopit][url said:
You won't be needing a wiper relay or blower motor relay
Is this because the original switches are made for the load - which they are as they don't normally have relays, but I had been looking to reduce the electrical load on the switches including the Ignition switch.
You should be using standard blade fuses wherever possible apart from the maxi type as a safety fuse when picking up a supply from the master switch to wherever (not got to that stage yet)
The CBS fuse box choice is only either Maxi or Mini fuses - so I have chosen with respect to expected max loads. I think I have it ok.
Is this because the original switches are made for the load - which they are as they don't normally have relays, but I had been looking to reduce the electrical load on the switches including the Ignition switch.
You should be using standard blade fuses wherever possible apart from the maxi type as a safety fuse when picking up a supply from the master switch to wherever (not got to that stage yet)
The CBS fuse box choice is only either Maxi or Mini fuses - so I have chosen with respect to expected max loads. I think I have it ok.
Penelope Stopit said:
Ok, If you want to relay the wiper motor you will need to carry out a custom wiring job for the circuit and need at least 2 or 3 relays to get it working
The blower motor will need 2 x relays if it's a 2 speed
Why are you using an incorrect fusebox?
What is a CBS Fusebox? Do you mean a fusebox supplied by Car Builder Solutions?
I don't mind not using relays where not needed. Blower motor is 4 speed and doesn't really need a relay. Wiper again does not use a relay in the original wiring. Yes the fuse box is Car Builder Solutions.The blower motor will need 2 x relays if it's a 2 speed
Why are you using an incorrect fusebox?
What is a CBS Fusebox? Do you mean a fusebox supplied by Car Builder Solutions?
phillpot said:
magpies said:
phillpot said:
Horn push should be on the left hand (indicator) stalk ?
It ain't on mineLooking back at your photo, correct switch has a square hazard button and those purple wires just visible should be for the horn.
Edited by phillpot on Sunday 25th November 09:24
Hi Penny
is it ok to have the relay activation coil feed fuses fed from the 'switched live' via the Ign relay and have the 'power' feeds to the relays fed from 'permanent live' fuses or should both the power and activation feeds be via the 'switched live' fuses?
I will be purchasing busbar feeds for both perm and switched fuse banks.
Looks like I'll be needing approx. 26 fuses, the bus bars come in either 10 or 20 spade outlets. So will need three - 2 perm/1 switched or 1 perm/2 switched
with a few spare. Also need fuses not fed from the battery (Main/Dip/Flash/Rear Fog)
or am I reading too much into this?
is it ok to have the relay activation coil feed fuses fed from the 'switched live' via the Ign relay and have the 'power' feeds to the relays fed from 'permanent live' fuses or should both the power and activation feeds be via the 'switched live' fuses?
I will be purchasing busbar feeds for both perm and switched fuse banks.
Looks like I'll be needing approx. 26 fuses, the bus bars come in either 10 or 20 spade outlets. So will need three - 2 perm/1 switched or 1 perm/2 switched
with a few spare. Also need fuses not fed from the battery (Main/Dip/Flash/Rear Fog)
or am I reading too much into this?
v8s4me said:
If the busbar in the fuse box is the common earth, like this one what is the issue?
The proposed busbars are completely separatand before the fusebox. They are basically to distribute the large battery cable down to multiple spade connectors then these wired to the individual circuit fuses.Penelope Stopit said:
No you're not reading too much into it, it's all good thinking
Battery supply to relay terminal 30 is the best method
Switched supply to relay coil terminal 86 can be whatever you choose
Fuse the relay outputs not the inputs. You won't need to fuse the relay supply If your battery is very close to the fusebox
If the battery is below the fusebox and relays you will have to have it in a box so that it doesn't gas upwards and end up corroding everything, perhaps you're using a sealed battery or one with a venting tube that vents out of the car through the floor, or maybe a gell type????
I can easily post you a fusing/relay wiring method
Yes a fuse / relay wiring method will be good. I've emailed you.Battery supply to relay terminal 30 is the best method
Switched supply to relay coil terminal 86 can be whatever you choose
Fuse the relay outputs not the inputs. You won't need to fuse the relay supply If your battery is very close to the fusebox
If the battery is below the fusebox and relays you will have to have it in a box so that it doesn't gas upwards and end up corroding everything, perhaps you're using a sealed battery or one with a venting tube that vents out of the car through the floor, or maybe a gell type????
I can easily post you a fusing/relay wiring method
Looks good Stoppedit
minor comments / probable changes to keep the totals down to that I've alreadypurchased
I'd supply the dash illumination from a side light fuse - almost all LED
probably not worth fitting relay to side/illumination as very little current draw and switch is designed for no relay
Rad Fans - agaon I'd keep with original Sierra Cossy design of only one fuse and relay
Car does not have electric windows
probably require a boot solenoid relay
Fogs supplied by side/head switch so not on with sidelights
don't know yet if injectors needs a fuse/relay but will check with Jag wiring diagram
If I do require more fuses / relays I will obtain
Once again cheers Penelope
minor comments / probable changes to keep the totals down to that I've alreadypurchased
I'd supply the dash illumination from a side light fuse - almost all LED
probably not worth fitting relay to side/illumination as very little current draw and switch is designed for no relay
Rad Fans - agaon I'd keep with original Sierra Cossy design of only one fuse and relay
Car does not have electric windows
probably require a boot solenoid relay
Fogs supplied by side/head switch so not on with sidelights
don't know yet if injectors needs a fuse/relay but will check with Jag wiring diagram
If I do require more fuses / relays I will obtain
Once again cheers Penelope
looking good there
couple of questions
I presume the earth from the starter button goes to the +ve side of the alternator warning light (will obviously illuminate when cranking) ?
I wish to have a warning light showing when the rad fan is working - activated by either the Otter switch or the dash override switch - Connected to the relay power to fan connection.
couple of questions
I presume the earth from the starter button goes to the +ve side of the alternator warning light (will obviously illuminate when cranking) ?
I wish to have a warning light showing when the rad fan is working - activated by either the Otter switch or the dash override switch - Connected to the relay power to fan connection.
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