S1 Sump Mod

S1 Sump Mod

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Discussion

theprof

Original Poster:

51 posts

95 months

Thursday 4th July 2019
quotequote all
Does anyone know the wall thickness of the chassis rails that the cross member is welded to, the one that blocks the sump from being removed on my S1. It is leaking on the rear right corner so needs to come off and the seal replaced mad . I plan to do the bolted rail modification eek. For anyone who has had it done or had it done for them, does anyone have the bolts only through into the rail, or does anyone have bolts through the entire rail. I am also interested in thread types, metric/imperial, coarse or fine. I know phillpot has a photo, anymore out there?spin

theprof

Original Poster:

51 posts

95 months

Friday 5th July 2019
quotequote all
The rivnut solution is one idea I have considered but it is more work to have the backing plate sit flush against the chassis rail. A very shallow counter bore may solve that problem though. More to consider.

theprof

Original Poster:

51 posts

95 months

Friday 5th July 2019
quotequote all
All of these ideas are worthy of merit gentlemen smile. I have been looking at rivnut technology and the tools seemed to have changed a bit. A two handed tool, like bolt croppers, would cope with an 8mm steel rivnut. Seen em on fleabay for about a pony. The chassis is balk standard mild steel .2% I would have thought, so any welding should be relatively easy if welding on, or in, any type of tubes or fastener. AC is a must though as it greatly increases the pull out/through strength which limits the welder to mig. TiG carbon steels and you will fight porosity a lot. Things to muse over!


theprof

Original Poster:

51 posts

95 months

Friday 5th July 2019
quotequote all
Is the outrigger return rail pushed through the chassis rail, i.e. is the main chassis rail drilled to receive the pushed through outrigger, then welded, does anyone no??ears

theprof

Original Poster:

51 posts

95 months

Friday 5th July 2019
quotequote all
Drilling through and keeping it straight is the key I would of thought. Never easy at the best of times when passing through a void, a pre-fabricated drill guide would defo help if there is room for the drill and bit.