S1 Rear Hub Removal

[88S1]

have the engine and gearbox out on my S1, trying to remove the rear swing arm assembly and need to remove the hub etc. When trying to remove the large bearing nut the diff drive just spins when I turn, how do I stop it turning so I can undo the big nut and remove the assembly?

Edited by 88S1 on Thursday 8th August 22:19

[88S1]

WotnoV8 said:

The hub nuts are handed so bear this in mind when trying to undo. The Nearside is LHand thread and Offside is RHand thread (I think that's the right way round). Also they are torqued up to about 320+ NM.

I wedged a long bar between the wheel studs and the floor to stop the driveshafts turning when I had mine apart. Might be worth using a long bar on the socket to get a good leverage and maybe use a bit of persuasion to get things started.


I'm sure others have a more foolproof way of doing it, but it worked for me.

Brilliant, thanks for the quick reply. Wasn’t sure if I was missing something obvious, there’s 2 big holes in the faceplate and thought they may be for something. I’ll give that a shot. Have the big nut bar.

[88S1]

WotnoV8 said:

The hub nuts are handed so bear this in mind when trying to undo. The Nearside

Piece of cake, many many thanks. One done, onto the next.

[88S1]

Just for the record. Nearside is Right hand thread, and Offside Left hand thread.

[88S1]

WotnoV8 said:

Sorry, my dodgy memory...
Glad you got them undone ok.

Was scratching my head there for the right solution and your suggestion worked, so thanks for that, and all the other replies to my posts over the months. Another 4 or 5 hours and the rest of the running gear will be off and then it’s Chassis time and the road to recovery and empty pockets.

[88S1]

GreenV8S said:

88S1 said:

Just for the record. Nearside is Right hand thread, and Offside Left hand thread.

If they're handed, usually the left hand thread would be fitted on the near side of the vehicle i.e. so that tightening the nut would tend to roll the vehicle forwards. Of course it's always possible that people have fitted handed axles on the wrong side.

That makes perfect sense, definitely the opposite on my car, they loosened in the direction of rotation the wheels would turn. Will swap them over during re-build, will have to check the front as well, not split them yet.

Thanks PH guys, saved my bacon and eggs now. Will have a full English by the time it’s back on the road ............one day in the far distant future.

[88S1]

Encouraging info in the Steve Heath book.

[88S1]

Ok, so can we clear this up, is this correct?

NS Rear - LH Thread
NS Front - RH Thread

OS Rear - RH Thread
OS Front - LH Thread

[88S1]

GreenV8S said:

88S1 said:

Ok, so can we clear this up, is this correct?

NS Rear - LH Thread
NS Front - RH Thread

OS Rear - RH Thread
OS Front - LH Thread

What do you mean by 'correct'?

There will be some cars like that. There will be others that are different. There are conflicting opinions about what is best from the engineering point of view. My own understanding suggests that both nuts on the nearside should be LHT but some manufacturers obviously think differently.

Ok, here’s another spanner to throw in, the nut on the rear is on the outside of the hub, but the nut on the front is on the inside, which would mean it’s thread should be opposite to the rear.

If that’s correct, then this ties up with my listed order.

Someone must know what the correct configuration is.

[88S1]

shaunodude1 said:

I DONT KNOW IF THIS WILL HELP IT'S OUT OF SCORIPO HAYNES BOOK

Ok, so that also agrees with my listed handings. Thanks.

[88S1]

Anyone know where to buy or what the correct name for little metal spring clip on the brake cable is called. One has broken as it was corroded and I can’t find them after searching.

[88S1]

phillpot said:

Don't bother, you can put a tie wrap around the outer sleeve once it's through the backplate but it shouldn't be slack enough to come out.

Ok, I did eventually find this though.

[88S1]

phillpot said:

It's your money

Ordered a box of these, may do the job.

[88S1]

Anyone know what the drum backing plate on a S1 is from. It’s either hours of work or buy new/better ones. Searched and can’t seem to find anything. Any help appreciated.

[88S1]

TVRees said:

Find someone who can shotblast the old ones and then repaint them.

Thanks. Wasn’t sure if shotblast would be too harsh, I’ll throw them in when the chassis gets sent then.

[88S1]

greymrj said:

Never ever needed to change one on any of the cars I have restored, except one where the entire brake mechanism had come adrift and destroyed pretty well everything! Shot blast or, if you are concerned about the amount of metal, get them chemically cleaned (less abrasive but usually dearer). I am lucky, top class chemical cleaner in Preston with a tank to do full chassis or shell if needed. (anybody in my area, they are called Ribble Technology (Preston) ltd.

A Porsche refurb guy I know mentioned them to me too, as an alternative to shot blasting the chassis.

[88S1]

greymrj said:

It is less damaging and doesn't fill it with sand! However you MUST get it properly dried and be ready to paint the next day. Best to get a precise time to book in and get it back. Don't just deliver it or it may have to wait outside.

If I did go down that route I’d POR15 treat and then paint with POR 15 top coat.

Edited by 88S1 on Thursday 22 August 18:50

[88S1]

djzcarr said:

Had mine shot blasted and powered coat this year with no issue! Just fitted them back on the car with no drama.

Ok, good to know. Thanks.

[88S1]

phillpot said:

88S1 said:

Anyone know what the drum backing plate on a S1 is from.

The rear drum brakes on all S's (with drum brakes) are from a Ford Sierra. Go for 1.8 or 2.0 litre. The 1.6 (was there a 1.3?) had smaller brakes and some top range/performance models had disc brakes.

Thanks. I thought they’d be a a common item but seemingly not, will have another look now I know what it is actually looking for.

[88S1]

TVRees said:

88S1 said:

Thanks. Wasn’t sure if shotblast would be too harsh, I’ll throw them in when the chassis gets sent then.

I shot blasted mine myself. It worked fine without any problems.

Thanks. Good to know you can blast them.