Discussion
Anyone know what the rear hub nut is off on the 400se. I have replaced the bearing but the nut doesn't feel or look too clever. It is very tight trying to wind it on from the very start.
Just in case I nob things up totally, what would the drive shaft to 1st UJ be off? I know the hub is granada bearing size but the shaft is off a ????
Just in case I nob things up totally, what would the drive shaft to 1st UJ be off? I know the hub is granada bearing size but the shaft is off a ????
will get onto them tomorrow.Cheers MrT, I had forgotten you had said that the other day. Will try my local ford shop in the morning. With a lot of searching around they seem to be coming up as M22x1.5 fine metric, which are easily obtainable.
ETA supposed to have said M22x1.5 not 1.25, fixed now.
ETA supposed to have said M22x1.5 not 1.25, fixed now.
Edited by TOPTON on Thursday 8th March 00:05
After delving further into the depth of nuts, I am now getting 2 sizes mentioned, 1.5 and 1.25 fine pitch. So it seems my first typo may be correct but not 100% sure yet.
1.5 are easy to get hold of http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M22-ZINC-NYLOC-NUTS-1-5-...
1.25 is more difficult. Any guesses as to which one it will be then?
The one I need is normal right hand thread, it even has an R on all 6 corners. When I was taking it off, it was a fight all the way to the edge, so I'm thinking maybe it was the wrong pitch that someone else fitted, that's why it is stripped now. (hopefully, the shaft feels ok) It was easy to loosen with a 24v hammer gun, so I didn't need 6ft of scaffold tube.
I got an email last night from someone offering me some they don't need so have taken up that offer. At least then I know they will be the correct ones.
barrington, thank you very much for your offer but I responded to the other one first.
1.5 are easy to get hold of http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M22-ZINC-NYLOC-NUTS-1-5-...
1.25 is more difficult. Any guesses as to which one it will be then?
The one I need is normal right hand thread, it even has an R on all 6 corners. When I was taking it off, it was a fight all the way to the edge, so I'm thinking maybe it was the wrong pitch that someone else fitted, that's why it is stripped now. (hopefully, the shaft feels ok) It was easy to loosen with a 24v hammer gun, so I didn't need 6ft of scaffold tube.
I got an email last night from someone offering me some they don't need so have taken up that offer. At least then I know they will be the correct ones.
barrington, thank you very much for your offer but I responded to the other one first.
Here's my thoughts. 
As the bearing is roller as apposed to taper it cannot be over tightened. The nut/washer touches the inner race which in turn touches the stub axle, so no extra pressure is on the balls and it's metal to metal contact. So once contact is made, eg 60ftlb any more pressure is not tightening the bearing fitment but is potentially stretching the threads on the nut or stuby shaft.
So why so efin tight!!!!!!!
The use of a new nyloc nut would be recomended once they are taken off, to make sure it holds again, but still, 230ftlb is way beyond tight.
Split pin/castleated nut would be a much better option as mention by some, but still just as tight---WHY????
I have changed many bearings in the past on lots of different cars with a similar setup and never had anything as tight as these before. 100ftlb is tight, even 150ftlb is super tight in any situation.
Wheel nuts are just as important and they are nowhere near as tight
I am going to tighten mine to recomended torque, with a split pin also, but that doesn't stop me wondering
As the bearing is roller as apposed to taper it cannot be over tightened. The nut/washer touches the inner race which in turn touches the stub axle, so no extra pressure is on the balls and it's metal to metal contact. So once contact is made, eg 60ftlb any more pressure is not tightening the bearing fitment but is potentially stretching the threads on the nut or stuby shaft.
So why so efin tight!!!!!!!
The use of a new nyloc nut would be recomended once they are taken off, to make sure it holds again, but still, 230ftlb is way beyond tight.
Split pin/castleated nut would be a much better option as mention by some, but still just as tight---WHY????
I have changed many bearings in the past on lots of different cars with a similar setup and never had anything as tight as these before. 100ftlb is tight, even 150ftlb is super tight in any situation.
Wheel nuts are just as important and they are nowhere near as tight
I am going to tighten mine to recomended torque, with a split pin also, but that doesn't stop me wondering
Edited by TOPTON on Friday 9th March 12:03
So perhaps it is something to do with what I first hinted at, stretching the shaft to cause spring effect. Or as you say leigh, the crush washer gives the spring effect too.
Still sounds like overkill though. I had a single sided swing arm Ducati 916 that had a similar size nut, more power to weight than the Tiv, fitted with a taper bearing that couldn't be overtightened. 35-40ftlb IIRC. Granted it wasn't on a drive shaft but it was all that was holding the drive wheel on.
Blatent picture upload of my 2nd favourite toy
Maybe I shouldn't try to understand
, I should just do as the books say 
Still sounds like overkill though. I had a single sided swing arm Ducati 916 that had a similar size nut, more power to weight than the Tiv, fitted with a taper bearing that couldn't be overtightened. 35-40ftlb IIRC. Granted it wasn't on a drive shaft but it was all that was holding the drive wheel on.
Blatent picture upload of my 2nd favourite toy
Maybe I shouldn't try to understand
, I should just do as the books say Got sorted and its's up and running again. (obviously because I started a thread about visiting a weigh bridge) The threads on the end of the drive shaft were pooped so I had to cut about 5mm off
.
This is the length required for the nyloc on the nut to work, so interestingly I also cut that part off the nut. double
The nut now sits flush with the end of the drive shaft , but this time it is thread locked on with a split pin through them both. Torqued up to F in tight with a 4ft bar.
I have marked the nut/shaft with paint to keep an eye on it for any movement. Was giving it big bootfulls before and everything is fine so far. But I am sure it won't move
. This is the length required for the nyloc on the nut to work, so interestingly I also cut that part off the nut. double
The nut now sits flush with the end of the drive shaft , but this time it is thread locked on with a split pin through them both. Torqued up to F in tight with a 4ft bar.
I have marked the nut/shaft with paint to keep an eye on it for any movement. Was giving it big bootfulls before and everything is fine so far. But I am sure it won't move
A kind PH gent PM'd me and offered 2 nuts for beer tokens. So the spec is still unknown exactly but they are available from http://www.rtracing.co.uk/ I've been told earlier.
Also any Jag dealer should have them for an 1980s XJ6/12 my research tells me.
Also any Jag dealer should have them for an 1980s XJ6/12 my research tells me.
to anyone in a public place, there is laws to stop things like that ya know Gassing Station | Wedges | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff