Tvr Tasmin 400se will not rev when hot
Discussion
Hi - first post here. Trying to sort out a problem. The car revs freely until it really heats up - say five miles or more and then it will not rev above around 4,000 rpm.
When I bought the car a while back it was not running right so took it to a rover specialist, they swapped a lot of bits to test them. The ECU was okay, the air flow meter okay and most other things are nearly new as the last owner spent a lot on the car. When I got the car back it ran better in some ways but they blamed the injectors for it not revving.
There has been a delay as I have had to take the body off the chassis as the chassis had rotted out at the side rail and front rail. Now all replaced and lots of other jobs done. Back to the engine - the injectors have been rebuilt, a new throttle pot fitted but the problem still exists. I do not want to go crazy chucking loads of bits on that have been done in the past. I tested the Bosch coil - not two years old yet - does anyone know what the readings should be when testing it terminal to terminal, the result is one ohm and terminal to coil hole, 11,300 ohms. It gets very hot but what doesn't under the bonnet. As I said, it runs well until it gets really hot, temperature gauge is okay though.
When I bought the car a while back it was not running right so took it to a rover specialist, they swapped a lot of bits to test them. The ECU was okay, the air flow meter okay and most other things are nearly new as the last owner spent a lot on the car. When I got the car back it ran better in some ways but they blamed the injectors for it not revving.
There has been a delay as I have had to take the body off the chassis as the chassis had rotted out at the side rail and front rail. Now all replaced and lots of other jobs done. Back to the engine - the injectors have been rebuilt, a new throttle pot fitted but the problem still exists. I do not want to go crazy chucking loads of bits on that have been done in the past. I tested the Bosch coil - not two years old yet - does anyone know what the readings should be when testing it terminal to terminal, the result is one ohm and terminal to coil hole, 11,300 ohms. It gets very hot but what doesn't under the bonnet. As I said, it runs well until it gets really hot, temperature gauge is okay though.
Hi not tested it in the dark yet but did test the newish leads on a meter and all around the same resistance wise the coolant sensor has been replaced as the car was fouling the plugs big time now they are a good colour have tried adjusting the fuel pressure but still the same when warm thinking about changing the coil but not sure what it should read test wise
Have taken the revs up to 5500 after a short run a few times but after some more miles its like hitting the rev limiter as for fuel pressure it's a rising rate one when I got it back from the experts it was over 50 and fouled the plugs on the way home have tried 38 but now on 44 it's a high Comp engine and feels better at 44 and the plugs look ok
Thanks for checking your coil as you say about the same readings wise the car is a flapper system its had a new dissy, vacuum and the Bob weights are doing there job
I replaced the coolant temp sender it was dud
the car had pinking problems the experts put a delay in the vacuum pipe to the dissy not so much a delay more of a stop you could suck on the pipe as much as you like but no action in dissy what I did check was the tdc on pully with the piston it's a good way out not sure how accurate as I put a Vernier gauge down the spark plug hole it is at least 5 deg out its set now to 2 reg on pully
I hear it's not uncommon for the key way to be out. can someone answer this for me please is the pully key way the same one as the cam chain runs on ?
When the car hits its missfire point it's not just the odd missfire seems like most cylinders sometime it can be made to rev higher but missing all the way
I replaced the coolant temp sender it was dud
the car had pinking problems the experts put a delay in the vacuum pipe to the dissy not so much a delay more of a stop you could suck on the pipe as much as you like but no action in dissy what I did check was the tdc on pully with the piston it's a good way out not sure how accurate as I put a Vernier gauge down the spark plug hole it is at least 5 deg out its set now to 2 reg on pully
I hear it's not uncommon for the key way to be out. can someone answer this for me please is the pully key way the same one as the cam chain runs on ?
When the car hits its missfire point it's not just the odd missfire seems like most cylinders sometime it can be made to rev higher but missing all the way
Yes I tried road-test with the dissy loose and armed with my timing light tried many settings and ended up at the setting I have now. I did dump the delay thing I was hoping to take it out tonight but it's raining at the moment no fun in the wet what I was thinking of doing was putting an ice pack on the coil and see if it still does it then try the same on the RPI power amplifier might have to wait till tomorrow for that as only just put them in the freezer .
Thought I would try simple things before I start to replace things any way going away next week so don't want to order anything yet and if I can borrow things to try then even better I am based on the Essex Suffolk border
Thought I would try simple things before I start to replace things any way going away next week so don't want to order anything yet and if I can borrow things to try then even better I am based on the Essex Suffolk border
Update took the car out same thing as normal put it in a dark garage still running no sparks any where poked around all the wires then the engine stopped a connector snapped where it goes into the dissy I hope it was this causing the problem all along or just me being ham fisted
Got the dissy out, the wire is to short to put a new connector on will try to solder a extension on if it doesn't work can you buy the trigger unit ?
Got the dissy out, the wire is to short to put a new connector on will try to solder a extension on if it doesn't work can you buy the trigger unit ?
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