Restart Problem - no spark (280i 1986)

[Grady]

Staring a new thread and hoping for help:

My car has been sidelined for some time because it will not start when warmed up. I am very much trying to get it on the road this spring so...

• It starts when cold. May die once or twice but immediately restarts. Takes a little feather of the throttle when cold but all good.
• Once warmed up, It runs/drives normally (for a while anyway).
• Once up to temperate, it may re-start if I turn it off and then restart within the minute.
• But if I wait 10-15 minutes, it will not start until it get stone cold (i.e. the next morning). It will crank with no spark until the battery runs down.

I thought I had finally fixed it with a replacement Duraspark (ignition module) - but not so fast. After a run it would not restart when I turned it off. So I bought another new (Borg Warner) ignition module but I got the same no-spark/no-start result after it warmed up.

I have replaced the fuel accumulator, coil, ignition module(s). I have fuel and fuel pressure. Plugs, plug , wires, rotor and cap all look/test OK. Battery, starter & alternator are OK.

What I'm missing is a spark when the engine is up to temperature. Any suggestions on what or where to test next?

ETA: I checked the ballast resister since it's something I hadn't played with: the battery was low at 12.5 volts, 6.8 Vt with the key on, engine off, 9.8 VT running but I didn't see 12 volts when cranking.

Getting frustrated!!! Thanks. Grady

Edited by Grady on Sunday 11th March 00:14

[Grady]

I have these two:





Not sure what kind you are referring to, could you post a link. Thanks

[Grady]

mrzigazaga said:

There are two coil fitments for the Ford 2.8i..one is for points and the other electronic ignition...have you the right one?....

I think so (or, that's what I was sold anyway).

Unfortunate I had to cook all day yesterday and now I away from the car till later in the week. I'll be back...

[Grady]

The coil is labeled "12 Volt, For external resister NAPA 903" - So I think it's the correct one. (NAPA is a USA brand)

And I warmed the engine up and no got restart but the coil was not particularly hot - it read 100 degrees F (vs 80 degrees ambient) about the same as the rest of the bay (the engine obviously was way hotter).

Did not have more time to play. Grady

[Grady]

Well, this is awkward but it turned out that my neon tester was bad. Got a new tester and had spark (hot & cold, coil and plug). So I then guessed no fuel???

I plugged my CIS meter in and had steady pressures. I've posted the testing that I could do with the run sensor in place (so all the values are cranking or running, not static). Some of the values are a little low but is it enough to suggest a failing pump? The pressure was very steady.



I was able - somehow, I'm not sure exactly what worked - to tweak it so that it starts (so far). Not running great (will not rev past K4) but at least for today it starts which is a huge improvement. It earned a bath.

Good use for a rear wing - just the right height!



Thanks for the help! Grady

Edited by Grady on Saturday 24th March 23:14

Edited by Grady on Sunday 25th March 15:45

[Grady]

With the engine running and warmed up, the pressure going to the WUR was a steady 68 PSI (not fluctuating) on my gauge, The manual calls for 73 + 6 PSI. So just w/in range. Next I'll figure out how to bypass the run sensor and check the static/cold pressures.

I bought a new neon tester. I'll try some B-12. I had added a bottle of Techron.

Also the filter is only 1-2 years old, accumulator is new, pump came with the car ~18 years ago.

[Grady]

jeff m2 said:

If you are unsure how to op the fuel pump.........hot wire it.

That about what I had in mind. Gone this weekend but I may find a day next week to play with it.