280 hard start and idle issue
Discussion
Hi guys,
Took the coupe out to a show this past weekend and had some issues.
First off, when cranking to start it takes longer than normal. Maybe 10-15 seconds and starts slowly and then revs up. Some times it's missing a little till you rev it a bite and other times it runs well.
When coming to a stop and pushing in the clutch it will stall and other times it idles fine.
We're should I start? I have also noticed a bit of petrol smell when it's not running right and the gas mileage is down at the same time.
Took the coupe out to a show this past weekend and had some issues.
First off, when cranking to start it takes longer than normal. Maybe 10-15 seconds and starts slowly and then revs up. Some times it's missing a little till you rev it a bite and other times it runs well.
When coming to a stop and pushing in the clutch it will stall and other times it idles fine.
We're should I start? I have also noticed a bit of petrol smell when it's not running right and the gas mileage is down at the same time.
could you take a picture of that plug? I have a angled port that is on the outside of the filter box which swivels around that doesn't have anything attached and near the top of the fuel metering unit there is a plugged port which isn't original.
I'm also going to adjust the valves since I have no idea when it's been done in the past. that usually helps the idle as well
thanks
I'm also going to adjust the valves since I have no idea when it's been done in the past. that usually helps the idle as well
thanks
It's tending to start a bit better through more use. took it to a show this past weekend and it wouldn't idle worth a damn. Needs the valves adjusted. It may run better after that.
I did find that the equalization hose between the tanks at the top is leaking. New hose ready to go on!
Not the headlights won't work. the car eats headlight switches. One of the bullet posts in the switch gets hot and pushes in just enough to break contact. New switch on the way and a relay to take the power off the switch should cure the problem.
I did find that the equalization hose between the tanks at the top is leaking. New hose ready to go on!
Not the headlights won't work. the car eats headlight switches. One of the bullet posts in the switch gets hot and pushes in just enough to break contact. New switch on the way and a relay to take the power off the switch should cure the problem.
The latest;
SO I adjusted the valves over the weekend and it's idling nicely now. SO on to the next two minor issues. When starting the car after sitting over night, it cranks for a while and then fires, builds up rpm's until it settles down to an nice idle. this takes 20-30 seconds. I'm guessing that since the top hose between the two fuel tanks is leaking it probably is a fuel pressure issue. Changing the hose should do the trick.
The other issue when driving along and I push in the clutch to turn a corner or into my drive, it nearly dies. Down to maybe 300-400 rpm and then climbs back up to a normal idle. Sounds like fuel pressure also. Ideas??
SO I adjusted the valves over the weekend and it's idling nicely now. SO on to the next two minor issues. When starting the car after sitting over night, it cranks for a while and then fires, builds up rpm's until it settles down to an nice idle. this takes 20-30 seconds. I'm guessing that since the top hose between the two fuel tanks is leaking it probably is a fuel pressure issue. Changing the hose should do the trick.
The other issue when driving along and I push in the clutch to turn a corner or into my drive, it nearly dies. Down to maybe 300-400 rpm and then climbs back up to a normal idle. Sounds like fuel pressure also. Ideas??
I miss stated the symptoms somewhat.
The drop in rev’s will happen anytime your driving along and push in the clutch. The car will almost stall then rev back up to normal idle. If your upshifting through the gears or down shifting you don’t notice it. But just push in the clutch and it happens
The drop in rev’s will happen anytime your driving along and push in the clutch. The car will almost stall then rev back up to normal idle. If your upshifting through the gears or down shifting you don’t notice it. But just push in the clutch and it happens
I checked the AAD and it's functioning as it should. I rotated the mixture screw in the fuel distributor a 1/4 turn CCW and now it doesn't stall. The RPMs still dip but it recovers. Might need a 1/4 more. It's still idling high so I need to go over the setting of the butterfly in the inlet of the manifold and set it correctly. I have a feeler gauge clearance setting for my 350i but no info on the 280i. I have set it at 3/16 clearance between the mechanism and the stop on the top of the manifold. Not sure what it's at currently. Then go back and set the idle screw.
I think the idle screw should be fully closed and then backed out two turns.
Any other things to try??
Also, my temp gauge seems to have quit. Anyone have a part number to replace it? I have Smiths gauges.
I think the idle screw should be fully closed and then backed out two turns.
Any other things to try??
Also, my temp gauge seems to have quit. Anyone have a part number to replace it? I have Smiths gauges.
I was finally able to get some information on how to set the throttle butterfly and the idle as well as a basic mixture adjustment to get the car "in the range" from one of the guys at Tickover. I'm sure you guys know of them. SO when the car comes back out in the spring I'll make those adjustments and then look for someone that can do a CO adjustment and I should be good to go.
I'll keep you guys In the loop!
I'll keep you guys In the loop!
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