What's happening in your garage this weekend ?
Discussion
Well in mine - I'm working on the engine bay.
Bit of a tidy up - need to sort out a bit of glassfibre repair
and also remove A/C rad from the mai rad, add the monster 14 inch fan I just bought and re-mount the 12 inch original - the re-make the fan cowl to match.. in preparation for a bit more heat from the engine
Bit of a tidy up - need to sort out a bit of glassfibre repair
and also remove A/C rad from the mai rad, add the monster 14 inch fan I just bought and re-mount the 12 inch original - the re-make the fan cowl to match.. in preparation for a bit more heat from the engine
and thinking what to do next. I have all day Saturday cus Ang is working, I must try and put SOME bits back on 
I've had that before.. and removed the front wheels and put the front of a single trolley jack to lower it..
Some hoists have an additional raiser thread on the piston part of
the bottle jack.. but it has to be made higher before lifting.. mine has this little feature
Good luck with it.
Some hoists have an additional raiser thread on the piston part of
the bottle jack.. but it has to be made higher before lifting.. mine has this little feature
Good luck with it.
I managed to remove the old aircon rad today - which was no easy job as the oil cooler had to come off and the mail rad had to modstly be removed to get to some seized bolts on the AC rad frame..
and I installed 2 extra strip lights .. so at last I can really see what I'm doing with 3 strip lights, a wander mechanics light and a 500 W site light..
and I installed 2 extra strip lights .. so at last I can really see what I'm doing with 3 strip lights, a wander mechanics light and a 500 W site light..
I've just taken my engine out without the box.. if you take the box out as well .. then you really do need a lot of lift from the crane.
If you are removing the engine - then it comes out OK.
You do need to remove the engine mounts from the block though.. the water pump and frront cover can remain on as well.
What did I do on mine today - well it was a dirty day - cleaning 15 year's of oil and dirt from all painted chassis tubes around the engine bay. The headers were also removed - so I could wire-wheel away any loose paint on the chassis.
The great news is that all the rust was just surface rust no need for the welder
If you are removing the engine - then it comes out OK.
You do need to remove the engine mounts from the block though.. the water pump and frront cover can remain on as well.
What did I do on mine today - well it was a dirty day - cleaning 15 year's of oil and dirt from all painted chassis tubes around the engine bay. The headers were also removed - so I could wire-wheel away any loose paint on the chassis.
The great news is that all the rust was just surface rust no need for the welder
badredwedge said:
So are you binning the aircon Rev, save some weight ??
Yes - it's binned. It does weight a lot but the reason for getting rid is the airflow restriction.
According to the Kenlowe website - having a AC rad in front of your existing rad literally halves the air flow.
So - I've removed the ac rad and have bought an additional 14 inch (1500 cfm) monster fan in addition to the existing fan.
It will all be a tight squeeze there..
It will be controlled by a Revotech 35mm controller, which can be set to just about any temp.
Anyone guessed that I'm planning for a few more horses under the bonnet yet
Made some progress today - massive thanks for Beastie for lending a hand - plus the encouragement when you have to cut a purfectly good chassis..
Today - we made some subtle mods to the engine mounts - to possibly allow for bigger exhaust tubes. Every 1 inch counts.
Removed the Gearbox.
Moved the diagonal chassis cross chassis tube attachment from the gearbox mount tube back to the chassis tube (back around) 1.5 inches.
We also created another cross chassis tube behind the gearbox for
some additional strength - this is removeable.
At least it's all nice and clean under there now
What a day ...
Today - we made some subtle mods to the engine mounts - to possibly allow for bigger exhaust tubes. Every 1 inch counts.
Removed the Gearbox.
Moved the diagonal chassis cross chassis tube attachment from the gearbox mount tube back to the chassis tube (back around) 1.5 inches.
We also created another cross chassis tube behind the gearbox for
some additional strength - this is removeable.
At least it's all nice and clean under there now
What a day ...
gsx600 said:
We should start a new post,
What's going on on your driveway
For those of us without a garage
I for one fitted the Steve Heath droplinks on my driveway, what a bugger to fit they were, even after sanding down the roll bar and coupious amounts of oilly stuff (tarmac soaks up a treat) One side will not move any further on or come back off, so can't get the split pin in. Hoping after a couple of drives it will move one way or the other.
Also fixed the Astra, started the bike, and looked at damage on Vitara, all on the driveway under no cover, good job not raining or else I'd be finishing the work on the house
What's going on on your driveway
For those of us without a garage
I for one fitted the Steve Heath droplinks on my driveway, what a bugger to fit they were, even after sanding down the roll bar and coupious amounts of oilly stuff (tarmac soaks up a treat
) One side will not move any further on or come back off, so can't get the split pin in. Hoping after a couple of drives it will move one way or the other. Also fixed the Astra, started the bike, and looked at damage on Vitara, all on the driveway under no cover, good job not raining or else I'd be finishing the work on the house
Paul - I think I found the same.
I also dry run any fitment off of the car .. and I picked the best fit for each side and the had to file one of the rollbar ends to get a good fit. I even sprayed the anti roll bar :
Make sure the rubber is in the right place and do not attach the chassis mounts until you have finished.
Still working on the gear box mounting.. good progress on Saturday
with the old mount remove - many thanks to Beastie.
Other non TVR stuff to be done on Sunday - so not much progress.. but it's taking shape.. did a bit of practive welding with my new welding helmet - solar powered clear screen jobbie .. really neat
Hope to get it mostly finished during the week.
with the old mount remove - many thanks to Beastie.
Other non TVR stuff to be done on Sunday - so not much progress.. but it's taking shape.. did a bit of practive welding with my new welding helmet - solar powered clear screen jobbie .. really neat
Hope to get it mostly finished during the week.
adam quantrill said:
Hmm - don't want to put a damper on things but that looks a bit flimsy to me - I would rather have tabs both top and bottom, to prevent them flexing. Or a couple of U bolts around the front-back tubes.
Mind you I can't really see the extra bracing pipe you put in, so maybe that's sufficient.
Let us know how it drives!
Mind you I can't really see the extra bracing pipe you put in, so maybe that's sufficient.
Let us know how it drives!
Thanks for the comment Adam.. it really is very substancial but you might have a point ... I can always add a top bolt and plate as you suggest.. but even as it is - it still has as least as much contact area as the original.
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