Flaring steel brake pipes
Discussion
I have to change the brake pipes on my son's car as they are rusted over the back axle. Problem is, the pipes are in one section from the bulkhead to the rear, and I would probably have to drop the front subframe to get them out. The front section has no rust at all. I have cunifer pipe, unions and a decent flaring tool. I have made up and fitted new pipes many times, but never joined up to steel pipes - my flaring tool says 'not suitable for steel pipes'
Has anyone done this? I could live with wear on the (very solid) flaring tool, but only if the joint is very safe. Is there perhaps a special tool for steel pipes?
Thanks, CB
Has anyone done this? I could live with wear on the (very solid) flaring tool, but only if the joint is very safe. Is there perhaps a special tool for steel pipes?
Thanks, CB
Apologies for the delay in responding, and thanks to those who offered advice.
I had a word with my friendly MOT man, and he said no problem with joining the pipes, just take it easy and don't strain the flaring tool etc.
The car is a Toyota Carina and the pipes were rusted around the front of the fuel tank; not a spot of rust elsewhere. I used cunifer pipe, and would never, ever use copper because it work hardens with vibration. The pipes were in one section, from the bulkhead to the rear axle and I had enough of a job winding the new tubes over the tank and around the suspension. There is a narrow gap over the front subframe and steering rack which the pipes pass through. That, and contorsions at the rear made it difficult to fit a one-piece pipe.
The steel pipes all had female flares (trumpet shaped), even onto the load valve and wheel cyclinders. I did the same for the cunifer pipe, except for the new couplers which needed a male flare. My flaring tool (Sealy, I think, about £30) flared the two steel pipes with no problem and the car has been driven for a week or so with no leaks.
I had a word with my friendly MOT man, and he said no problem with joining the pipes, just take it easy and don't strain the flaring tool etc.
The car is a Toyota Carina and the pipes were rusted around the front of the fuel tank; not a spot of rust elsewhere. I used cunifer pipe, and would never, ever use copper because it work hardens with vibration. The pipes were in one section, from the bulkhead to the rear axle and I had enough of a job winding the new tubes over the tank and around the suspension. There is a narrow gap over the front subframe and steering rack which the pipes pass through. That, and contorsions at the rear made it difficult to fit a one-piece pipe.
The steel pipes all had female flares (trumpet shaped), even onto the load valve and wheel cyclinders. I did the same for the cunifer pipe, except for the new couplers which needed a male flare. My flaring tool (Sealy, I think, about £30) flared the two steel pipes with no problem and the car has been driven for a week or so with no leaks.
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