Tamiya CC-01 Chassis Advice?
Discussion
Guys, I'm looking at getting the Tamiya Unimog (CC-01 chassis) as a present to myself after some health issues. I understand that Tamiya might not be the ultimate manufacturer for RC cars these days, but their models will always be a bit special for me, plus It will make a nice companion for my Lego Unimog. I want a fairly realistic model that can still tackle some decent off-road obstacles/easy rock-crawling type stuff. Some online videos seem to show the kind of capabilities I want.
Any comments on this chassis in general?
Advice on upgrades (I'd like to go for a more engineered look with some aluminium parts)?
Also, the low ratio gearbox (hpi) looks good, but does fitting that make straight-line flat operation too painful?
I'd like to stick with a brushed standard motor, so any advice on esc's and batteries (5000mAh like my sons Mad Bull? It gives plenty of run time) would be appreciated.
Can a polycarbonate body be finished with automotive paint and 2k clear coat? I've had good results on plastic models, and the finish seems very tough. I remember painting my Frog body from the inside...
Finally, recommendations for suppliers?
Ta very much in advance for any advice.
Any comments on this chassis in general?
Advice on upgrades (I'd like to go for a more engineered look with some aluminium parts)?
Also, the low ratio gearbox (hpi) looks good, but does fitting that make straight-line flat operation too painful?
I'd like to stick with a brushed standard motor, so any advice on esc's and batteries (5000mAh like my sons Mad Bull? It gives plenty of run time) would be appreciated.
Can a polycarbonate body be finished with automotive paint and 2k clear coat? I've had good results on plastic models, and the finish seems very tough. I remember painting my Frog body from the inside...
Finally, recommendations for suppliers?
Ta very much in advance for any advice.
Gareth1974 said:
'Santa' bought my son the Unimog for Christmas (and spent a lot of time constructing it). Russy on here (Jadlam) did a cracking deal on it.
The steering on the CC01 is notoriously poor. So much so that I ordered a GPM aluminium steering upgrade kit for it last week - it arrived a couple of days ago, but I've not fitted it yet, so can't tell you if its worthwhile getting as yet. Looks nice though, I ordered it in blue metal to match the body.
Looks nice! The 'scale' look appeals to me much more than the rock crawler version.The steering on the CC01 is notoriously poor. So much so that I ordered a GPM aluminium steering upgrade kit for it last week - it arrived a couple of days ago, but I've not fitted it yet, so can't tell you if its worthwhile getting as yet. Looks nice though, I ordered it in blue metal to match the body.
Is it true to say that the old and new body styles available are on the same CC-01 chassis? And that the only other version is the rock crawler type?
Thanks.
generationx said:
There's a goldmine of information on www.tamiyaclub.com with an active forum and thousands of built examples of every Tamiya and non-Tamiya model.
As for suppliers I've yet to try (but he comes highly recommended) Jadlam models who is on here as (I think?) Russy01. There are a lot of shops both in the UK and around the world, PM me if you would like some links.
You should paint all the clear polycarbonate bodyshells from the inside as this is the design intent. The Tamiya PS- range of rattle-cans are perfect and specially formulated as they are flexible when dry so bend with the thin plastic. Always back a colour with a base such as white or silver, depending on the finish required. There are other manufacturers of course such as Parma.
Hard plastic bodies can be treated like any other model kit, so auto paints such as Halfords sprays work fine too, but I tend to use Tamiya as I'm used to them and they are very consistent.
edited for repetition
Thanks - I've bought some models from Jadlam in the past, so will have s look at prices.As for suppliers I've yet to try (but he comes highly recommended) Jadlam models who is on here as (I think?) Russy01. There are a lot of shops both in the UK and around the world, PM me if you would like some links.
You should paint all the clear polycarbonate bodyshells from the inside as this is the design intent. The Tamiya PS- range of rattle-cans are perfect and specially formulated as they are flexible when dry so bend with the thin plastic. Always back a colour with a base such as white or silver, depending on the finish required. There are other manufacturers of course such as Parma.
Hard plastic bodies can be treated like any other model kit, so auto paints such as Halfords sprays work fine too, but I tend to use Tamiya as I'm used to them and they are very consistent.
edited for repetition
Edited by generationx on Friday 21st July 17:42
RedCarsAnonymous said:
Overall I think it's a good choice, it's good value & I'm sure part supply won't ever be a problem 
The CC-01 is pretty capable out of the box as long as you lock the rear diff (instructions in the manual, + the needed parts are included in all the kits), I would aslo suggest swapping the kit motor out for something with lower revs (45 or 55 turns) as the stock (27T) motor is too fast for scale speed & body preservation. I'd stick with the stock Tamiya ESC, at least until you find it does somethign you don't like. The Unimog you've picked out has the best tyres & wheels of all the CC-01 kits IMO, again i wouldn't change them unless you find fault with them.
Steering is a bit limited & wayward, I have a GPM bellcrank kit in one of mine & it does help a bit. You might also look at the Tamiya "barrel spring set" for the chassis. Fit proper bearings from the start (rcbearings.co.uk would be a good place to start).
Not sure why you'd want to paint a polycarbonate/lexan body with auto paint unless it's to match a specific shade ... Tamiyas PS paints stick well on the inside & the ouside will be very shiny... at least initially. If you really want to use auto paints, spray the outside with PS in a neutral colour so you've got a base to stick to ... I'd test the paints on an offcut before committing though.
Thanks for the info.The CC-01 is pretty capable out of the box as long as you lock the rear diff (instructions in the manual, + the needed parts are included in all the kits), I would aslo suggest swapping the kit motor out for something with lower revs (45 or 55 turns) as the stock (27T) motor is too fast for scale speed & body preservation. I'd stick with the stock Tamiya ESC, at least until you find it does somethign you don't like. The Unimog you've picked out has the best tyres & wheels of all the CC-01 kits IMO, again i wouldn't change them unless you find fault with them.
Steering is a bit limited & wayward, I have a GPM bellcrank kit in one of mine & it does help a bit. You might also look at the Tamiya "barrel spring set" for the chassis. Fit proper bearings from the start (rcbearings.co.uk would be a good place to start).
Not sure why you'd want to paint a polycarbonate/lexan body with auto paint unless it's to match a specific shade ... Tamiyas PS paints stick well on the inside & the ouside will be very shiny... at least initially. If you really want to use auto paints, spray the outside with PS in a neutral colour so you've got a base to stick to ... I'd test the paints on an offcut before committing though.
Presumably the slower motor would be in place of the reduction gearbox I was going to get? Can't help thinking I'd get more power and torque, but at lower wheel speed with the gearbox? I realise it means a bit of chopping to fit, but I've no issue with that.
My son's Mad Bull has a 5000MaH MiMh battery and a standard motor (plus a cheap aftermarket ESC, and we often get 40+ minutes out of it. In fact sometimes we don't run it flat. Is that a decent battery for what I'm talking about with the Unimog, or is it overkill?
OK, I'll go with the usual polycarbonate body painting method (done it before on my old Frog), it's just that I have some 2K clearcoat (and an airbrush) and there is a good local automotive paint supplier. Had good results in terms of a glass-like finish with these paints before, plus its very tough and seals in the decals nicely.
Re. the tyres: Did you mean the 'old' body version had the best tyres?
OK understood, thanks.
The question about battery capacity was separate to the motor speed one! For a brushed motor ( in broad terms) voltage equates to rpm, current draw to torque. I was wondering if 5000mAh would give more, or less run time than in the Mad Bull, accounting for 4WD, gearing and any size/weight difference in the model; I have no experience of this model type.
I'm assuming the lower rpm motor has less torque, hence a reduction gearbox with the standard motor would be better? I don't want to run it everywhere at 50mph, far more doodling about on rough terrain. I've seen videos of un-gearboxed models appearing to stall on obstacles, then suddenly jump forward when throttle is increased. I'm looking, I guess, for a compromise more biased toward smoothness and torque rather than speed. As you said though, not to the degree I'm at full throttle doing 2mph!
Cheers!
The question about battery capacity was separate to the motor speed one! For a brushed motor ( in broad terms) voltage equates to rpm, current draw to torque. I was wondering if 5000mAh would give more, or less run time than in the Mad Bull, accounting for 4WD, gearing and any size/weight difference in the model; I have no experience of this model type.
I'm assuming the lower rpm motor has less torque, hence a reduction gearbox with the standard motor would be better? I don't want to run it everywhere at 50mph, far more doodling about on rough terrain. I've seen videos of un-gearboxed models appearing to stall on obstacles, then suddenly jump forward when throttle is increased. I'm looking, I guess, for a compromise more biased toward smoothness and torque rather than speed. As you said though, not to the degree I'm at full throttle doing 2mph!
Cheers!
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